mmm-yoso!!!

Sangucheria Peruvian Street Food

Back in mid-March, I went on one of my "drives with no purpose"......I guess basically doing the Flâneur, except very SoCal.....I'm not sure what the French would call it? Perhaps "pas d'entraînement objectif"?

Anyway, I was wondering if anything had taken residence in the previous location of a favorite "local grindz" place of mine. So, I drove on over to Tierrasanta and into the strip mall at 5950 Santo Road. I was a bit surprised to see that the market in the mall seems to have closed; but was even more surprised to see the sign for "Sangucheria Peruvian Street Food"! My goodness! 

Folks who've read this blog for a while know that my first documented international trip was to Peru in 2007...man, almost 15 years ago! It was the first time that a cuisine had inspired me to travel somewhere. Something that has since been a common theme for us. So Peruvian cuisine holds a special place in my heart and I was fascinated to see a Sanguche place here.

It was Sunday, so the place was closed, but I made sure to check them out that very week!

 The shop is even more spartan than when it was ISC, with a couple of tables and a takeout counter. The menu is brief, with 5 Sanguches (sandwiches) and several drinks and two types of fries.

Of course, I had to order the Sanguche de Chicharron (Pan con Chicharron). After all, I needed to see how it compared to what I had at Dona Paulina in Lima, right?

I ordered the Sanguche de Chicharron and an order of Sweet Potato Fries.

In Peru, they serve this sandwich in what they call "pan Frances"; basically French Bread. Though it is much lighter than what we would call a French Roll here in the states. This version was served on what I'd consider a Telera roll; that you'd get from your neighborhood Mercado. It is light , yeasty, and held up well.

The pork was a bit on the chewy side; which is pretty much in line with what we had in Peru; though I wish it was a bit more "swiney", but "the other white meat" is a US thing. I would have preferred a good Salza Criolla, which would have some heat, cilantro, and lime, then the typical pickeld onions provided. Also would have liked a bit more camote (sweet potato) as it was really lost in the sandwich.

Overall, a decent Sanguche. When I'm missing Peru, I'll have it again.

The Sweet Potato Fries where seasoned perfectly and had that wonderful mildly sweet flavor and nice starchiness.

The fries however, did not travel well and while the flavor was good, it was quite soggy by the time I got back to the office......about 15 minutes road time.

As week later, I decided to return and order something else.....I choose the Asado (beef) Sandwich.

Which came with two "aji"....a nice Aji Verde, a spicy-creamy green sauce and a sorta-kinda Aji Amarillo kind of thing which seemed more like a spicy salad dressing???

The sandwich was served in a Ciabatta Roll, which is typical for Sanguche Asado.

I recall a conversation with Benjamin, who was our driver for our flight over the Nazca Lines regarding Sanguches....yes, you know me......He is the one that recommended Dona Paulina over La Lucha in Lima...it's where he takes his family. He told me that often times folks make Sanguche de Asado with leftover beef, so it can be tough and dry. Which is kind of what the beef in this sandwich was.

It could have used more of the nice, pungent-sweet carmelized onions....though I'm glad I had the Aji Verde. Still, I'll pass on this one in the future.

The folks working at Sangucheria Peruvian Street Food are amazingly warm, friendly, and gracious. And that point alone means I'll return again soon....when I'm thinking and dreaming about wonderful Peru.

Food has that wonderful affect; it will sometimes take me back to people, places, and various moments......and that is priceless.

Sangucheria Peruvian Street Food
5950 Santo Rd.
San Diego, CA 92124
Current Hours:
Mon - Thurs 11am - 4pm
Fri - Sat 11am - 6pm
Closed Sundays

Travelling With My TasteBuds, Thinking of Peru - Lomo Saltado From Latin Chef

A few weeks ago; I was looking thru some of my old photos and came across our Peru folders which brought back some great memories of not only places we've visited, but also of memorable meals we've had during our visits. It goes without saying that I really love Peruvian cuisine. From a wonderful Cebiche or Tiradito, to Anticuchos, and of course, Lomo Saltado….to the point that I've even done a comparison post in the past. I of course instantly needed some lomo saltado. I had visited Latin Chef after the change of ownership and move to Liberty Station. I hadn't been to this part of town since before the pandemic started, so I called and placed a takeout order and headed down to Liberty Station. This being early January, San Diego was still in the "purple tier" with only takeout service. I was a bit taken aback with all the folks walking around Liberty Station. Perhaps I should have chosen a non-weekend day for my fix.

Anyway; I took the side entrance and waltzed right to the Latin Chef Counter.

My order wasn't ready, so I walked to the far corner and waited. Unlike my previous visits, the new owner, Tony Kaneshiro wasn't working....just two young men. A few minutes later my Lomo Saltado ($14.50) was ready. I had thought of checking out the rest of the stands a bit; especially Chris' Ono Grinds, but the place was just too crowded for me, so I headed home.

Perhaps I should have ordered from Eli's, because this was quite disappointing. The meat was really tough, dry, with a metallic tinge. I appreciated the tomato in the dish because it really helped to cut the salty and greasiness of the dish. The papas fritas were fine; but also on the dry side. The rice was hard and dry. I was thankful for the Aji Verde....which while very straight forward, also helped to get past the salty-greasiness.

Kind of sad overall.

Maybe it was because Tony wasn't on hand and not to beat a dead horse, but I couldn't help but lament how far Latin Chef has fallen. It was, once upon a time our favorite Peruvian Restaurant in San Diego. We used to visit 2-3 times a week! LC was the place that inspired us to travel to Peru; as much as Machu Picchu amazed us; it was the cuisine that always seemed to be progressing that we loved.

My hope is to find a Peruvian restaurant in San Diego that will take my tastebuds back to Peru......until we can once again travel and visit Peru.

The Latin Chef (Liberty Station)
820 Historic Decatur Rd.
San Diego, CA 92106
(619) 269-3360
Current Hours:
Sun - Wed   11am - 7pm
Thurs - Sat 11am - 8pm

El Huerco Food Truck

While walking to my car to grab lunch a few weeks ago I saw this food truck.

I really didn't pay attention to the menu, or much else....it was the company Mira Flores LLC that caught my eye. I looked up at the menu and noticed it was a Peruvian food truck! Well I'll be damned! I suddenly knew what I'd be having for lunch. I really don't eat much at food trucks these days as it seems most do not make particularly good food, nor are they a good value. But heck, even if I wasn't transported back to Miraflores, just having a decent Lomo Saltado would make me happy.

The young lady working was very ncie and cheerful and really helped folks out when explaining the different dishes.

So, I got the Lomo Saltado ($12) and a side of Yuca Frita ($5).

The Lomo Saltado was served like a rice bowl. The rice was nice, fluffy and moist. The papas fritas were typical, though fairly dry. Which would have been too bad if there were enough sauce from the Lomo Saltado to coat them, which wasn't the case. The beef was dry, the onions over-cooked, though the tomatoes, which were diced...I prefer larger slices, were fine. The sauce was heavy soy thus salty, and needed more acidity.

The Yuca Frita on the other hand was quite good. Crisp outside, fluffy, yet substantial inside.

It was quite nice and well done. Though I wasn't a fan of the Aji Amarillo as it had too much mayo (true versions don't use mayo) and was more spicy than the usual Aji Amarillo would be. Still, those were some good Yuca Frita.

A couple of weeks later, I saw the truck again and decided to give them another try.

Same nice young lady.

I decided to go with the Anticucho Sliders ($8) and of course, more of those Yuca Frita.

This version of Anticuchos was braised shredded beef, sort of like Cuban Ropa Vieja. I enjoyed the roll which had been slightly toasted and held up well. I tasted the Salza Criolla (something easy to make at home) and it needed more time for the flavors to meld. The flavor of the beef was heavy handed with citrus, making it quite tannic, it was also on the dry side.

While this was better than the Lomo Saltado; it still fell short of expectations. I don't expect anything like Peru, but this just didn't do it for me.

While the Yuca Frita was perhaps even better this time around.

Though it's tempting, I don't think I could make a meal out of Yuca Frita.

Nice folks, the food is pseudo Peruvian in my mind and while I say that the great thing about Peruvian food is that it's always evolving; this isn't that evolution.

Perhaps it's worth a try and I'll definitely get that Yuca Frita again....but perhaps go somewhere else to get my main course. 

Lima Restaurant

**** Lima Restaurant has closed

Back in June, one of the folks in my office was headed to Jury Duty and asked me where to eat; of course I recommended Sultan. Which he really enjoyed. Though when he returned he asked me what I thought of the "new" Peruvian Restaurant which was across the street from Sultan. New Peruvian? Across the street from Sultan? So on the following weekend, I decided to head on down to see what he was referring to. And there on the corner of F and Fourth, with a rather discreet sign was "Lima Restaurant".

The fairly large, high ceiling restaurant was quite empty. Looking more like a sports bar than a restaurant.

The woman who waited on me was very friendly and warm. Turned out she was one of the owners.

I started with a Chicha Morada; which was perfect.

Very balanced sweet - cinnamon tones; quite refreshing.

And a little bowl of plantain chips and canchita, nice and warm arrived at the table.

I had ordered the Lomo Saltado, which arrived looking wonderfully vibrant. In a rather different presentation; the fries were served to the side. The nice lady told me that these days folks in Lima prefer Lomo Saltado served this way and I could mix it in as I desired.....or keep it separate to extend the crispness. Like I always say about Peru......the cuisine is always evolving.

The beef was surprisingly tender; there was a good ratio of tomato to onion.....providing a nice balance of acidity to pungency.  I of course, like my papas fritas saturated in the sauce and my only complaint was that there wasn't enough of it. The sauce was more soy sauce forward; with less vinegar, but wasn't overly salty.

This was a nice version. Because the restaurant was fairly quiet; I had a nice conversation with the woman; who was indeed from Lima. We spoke about how the cuisine was ever changing, with everything from the new style "Leche de Tigre"; a creamy, cold soup like dish and how Tacu Tacu con Lomo Saltado has gotten popular. She also told me that Lima Restaurant was having a formal grand opening at the end of July. They were working on the installation and all of the licensing and approvals for a Pollo ala Brassa rostisserie.

I left quite satisfied. And waited to see if I'd hear anything about Lima Restaurant, but the only thing I saw was this; which, by the way, incorrectly attributes Lomo Saltado to the Japanese Diaspora. Being a Sansei myself; I'd love if that were true. The truth of the matter is; and this is from all of my Peruvian food books, and also everywhere online, Lomo Saltado is a Tusan (Chifa) dish. Sigh....

So finally, after not hearing anything for a while, I decided to head back down to the Gaslamp to see what was going on at Lima Restaurant.

The place was very quiet on this visit as well. The gentleman working was quite nice. Though the cancha this time around was cold and dry......not a good start in my book.

I started with the Causa. Which actually had real crab in it! It was perhaps a bit heavy handed in terms of mayo, though the potato was very moist and the seasoning spot on. The very gracious Server asked me if I wanted some "hot sauce" and I responded "some aji?" Which totally changed his friendly but reserved demeanor....."yes, we have four different aji!" So, I selected the Aji Rocoto and the nice Server actually brought me two. The Aji Rocoto and the Aji Panca. "The rocoto is very spicy, so I brought you the panca as well; which you might enjoy more." Great service. The Aji Rocoto was quite spicy, while the Panca had some heat and helped to cut the richness.

I also ordered the Cebiche Pescado, first asking what type of fish was being used.

I was quite thrilled to find out it was sole....making this truly a Cebiche Lenguado! Which was quite nice. The fish was nicely "marinated/cooked" in the Leche de Tigre, as it was still firm, but yielding and not mushy at all. The Leche de Tigre was surprisingly "picante"; quite spicy, but still refreshing. It was also ginger forward; not quite sure if I enjoyed that. At first I didn't think there was very much Leche de Tigre, but it was hidden underneath all that fish; along with quite a bit, perhaps too much, red onion.

I had actually saved my canchita not being sure they would serve more with the cebiche, but they did. It was on the dry side. The chocolo (corn) was too hard and tasteless; the camote had no flavor and was quite hard.

Still, I enjoyed the quality of the fish. I'd have this again just to see if the addition of all that chili was a mistake.

I had a nice conversation with the Server and mentioned the Pollo ala Brassa. He told me they were still working on completing all the inspections and will (hopefully) have it in by the end of August.

I enjoyed the quality of the main ingredients used and the folks working here. I wish it was in a more convenient location for me; though at least I now have another option when I get called for Jury Duty.

Lima Restaurant
409 F St.
San Diego, CA 92101
Hours:
Mon - Thurs 11am - 9pm
Fri - Sat 11am - 10pm
Sunday 11am - 8pm 

The Latin Chef, Now in the Liberty Public Market

After eating at Steak n Fries in PB, instead of heading right over to Grand to get out of PB, I drove up Garnet. I was shocked to see that Latin Chef had closed. Yes, they had really slipped over the years, especially after the original chef left and headed back to Cusco. But the place had sentimental value to me. Much like Sultan had inspired us to travel to Turkey; Latin Chef got us to head to Peru. I'd always enjoyed Peruvian food; the ever changing amalgamation of the cuisines of those who set foot upon its shores. It seems that Peru embraces the dishes and aims to do it "right". And while places like Maido might not do everything to our taste; I appreciate the honest, sincere combination of Nikkei-Tusan-Amazonian tastes and textures. So yes, I was sad to see Latin Chef close; even though it seemed like the writing had been on the wall for a while.

I was just as shocked upon walking through the Liberty Public Market on our way to El Jardin a few days later to see a sign up for "The Latin Chef"! Could it be? Anyway, I waited until that weekend to check them out. Located where I believe Meze Greek Fusion used to be, Latin Chef has assumed the small kitchen and counter.

I sidled up to the counter; there are two tables also available, and was handed a menu by the nice woman working. She introduced herself as the Chef's wife. I was suddenly full of questions, but just asked one.....and she confirmed, Fredy was no longer associated with Latin Chef, she and her husband, a Nikkei from Peru were now in charge.

The menu was chock full of Peruvian standards, Lomo Saltado, Chaufa, Tallarin, and so forth.

Of course the first thing on my mind was some Cebiche Pescado; but I noticed they used Swai. In spite of the various concerns about Swai (I'd eat it before Escolar); I just find most preparations; perhaps fried is the best, turns out mushy. So; I went with the Leche de Tigre instead to see how the fish was prepared.

And as you can see; some Chicha Morada, which was decent...not too sweet, cinnamon tones. Loved the good amount of chanchita; the nutty-earthy tones really match well with the sour lime. The leche de tigre was super bracing and sour; it was lime heavy. I'd grown used to some balance with the addition of more savory and pungent components. And no, I didn't expect the "nuevo style" Leche de Tigre dishes we had in Lima during our last visit. The shrimp was cooked by the book, plainly boiled like for a typical shrimp cocktail and the fish, small pieces were kind of mushy and flaky.

I also got the Anticuchos Corazon, the classic grilled beef heart dish of Peru.

This was also done pretty much by-the-book, achiote-cumin-salt. Luckily they gave me a nice little container of aji rocoto, which added some nice zip. While I wasn't expecting, say anything on the level of Panchita's; this version was tad too tough...I'm used the toothsome-chewiness, which I find rather pleasant; but perhaps just slicing things a bit thinner like like the former Latin Chef and Nazca Grill used to do. it also could have done with more aji and some good acid.

Again, I was thankful for the aji rocoto as it added some nice zip to things.

So, with that under my belt, I decided to head back the next weekend.

And, of course I ordered the Lomo Saltado.

While this was better than what I last had at Pisco; it lacked enough acidity from tomatoes and pungency from onions and just had way too much potatoes. The sauce was bit oily and it edged on being too salty. The meat, was toothsome but not tough. The rice was fine; but this was nothing like the balance that Latin Chef had at its peak.

After being served; the chef came out to chat. His name is Tony Kaneshiro and he is a full blown Nikkei from Peru. We talked about the food; he hasn't been back to Peru in ages and goes for basic, straight forward Peruvian food. In a very interesting coincidence, he told me he used to cook at El Rocoto in the mid-90's, which would be about the time we used to go there often! Small world.

The Peruvian stylings at this version of Latin Chef is quite straight forward. I found it to be somewhat inconsistent but will check back in a few months to see. I'm happy to see the legacy of Latin Chef being carried on, by two really nice folks. I hope they do well.

The Latin Chef (In Liberty Public Market)
2820 Historic Decatur Rd.
San Diego, CA 92106
Hours:
Mon - Sat 11am - 8pm
Sunday    11am - 7pm

Machu Picchu Bar and Restaurant

**** Machu Picchu Bar and Restaurant has closed

A few months ago, one of my coworkers mentioned a Peruvian place he and his wife loved. They are, like me, big fans of Peruvian food. I was surprised at the recommendation. It was a place in the Gaslamp, named after one of the places I'll never forget; Machu Picchu. He highly recommended the Pescado alo Macho; so I headed on down soon after.

The restaurant is located on 5th Avenue, next to Rockin' Baja Lobster. The interior is quite wide open and really looks like a sports bar with an additional dining area upstairs.

This being 1130 on a Sunday, the place was totally empty. The person tending the bar told me choose any table and I had a seat. A menu was provided and I started with a Chicha Morada; which wasn't overly sweet, though the cinnamon-clove flavor was also slightly muted. It was fine though.

In a short while my pretty generous plate arrived. The gentleman told me to be careful of the Aji sauce....which he pronounced Ah-Gee, rather than the correct Ah-hee...oh well.

The dish as a whole wasn't too bad at all. The fish, sea bass, was fried nicely, light and crisp, moist flesh with no off flavors.

The rest of the seafood was a mixed bag; the calamari rings were tough and rubbery and the mussels overcooked. The shrimp edged on being dry and overcooked as well. The sauce was very thin; but quite spicy....it definitely was "macho".

I prefer my sauce for pescado alo macho with a combination of aji Amarillo and aji rocoto; this one was quite one-dimensional and could have used perhaps a bit more tanginess from tomato and some pungent-savory flavors. It wasn't too salty though.

And while the rice was on the dry side and the "salad" was quite simple....looking at it I was thinking some sarza criolla would be a nice pungent, slightly spicy way of helping things along....even though that sauce...and the Aji was quite spicy, it would help to refresh. But it was just a salad with a simple dressing.

Still, the fish was the star, and was not bad at all.

So, a little over a week ago, when I took the trolley and visited the Little Italy Mercato and the Tuna Harbor Dockside Market, I decided to head on over to Machu Picchu. This time, the young man working was obviously Peruvian. Again the place was empty, except for two couples at the bar having mimosas.

This time, I started with the Causa Limena which was huge.

The sauce again had a good amount of spice. It was a bit too cold, the potatoes were on the mealy side. I like the potatoes in my causa to be moist and slightly creamy, this more mealy. The chicken filling had enough celery, but way too much mayonnaise for my taste. Lots of chicken though. Not my favorite version.....though it was quite hefty.

I couldn't help but order the cebiche pescado. The fish again was decent quality, but it had been in the citrus a bit too long and was starting to get mushy. The marinating liquid, the leche de tigre ("tiger's milk") was too thin and was much too sour. I prefer a bit more balance in my leche de tigre, a bit of oceany fish stock, pungent onion, cilantro, you get it. The sauce was again spicy Aji Rocoto based. I asked the young man if this was just Aji Rocoto; or if they snuck in some Aji Limo as well. He told me it was just Aji Rocoto. I wished for a bit more Canchita, but I really wouldn't have enjoyed eating it my favorite way....with a spoon of leche de tigre.

The camote was mushy and lacked the sweet and sometimes cinnamony tones of those in Peru. And corn on the cob replaced the wonderful large kernel "choclo", Peruvian corn.

Not a terrible version of cebiche pescado, but lacking in some of the details that make this dish one of our favorites.

Service was a bit slow, but friendly. The portions are quite generous but with typical Gaslamp prices.

Machu Picchu Bar & Restaurant
314 5th Ave
San Diego, CA 92101
Hours:
Sun - Thurs 11am - 10pm
Fri - Sat   11am - 11pm

After that lunch, it was easy getting on the Green Line back to pick my car up. Perhaps I need to check out other places in the area when my car in in for service.

Thanks for reading!

Fools and Kings

**** Fools and Kings has closed

One evening a few months back, I was looking for a place to grab an early dinner with the Missus. She wanted something different. I returned to the menu at Fools and Kings, a fairly eclectic collection of small plates....with dishes from some of our favorite places; Spain, Peru, and heck even North Africa. Over the next month or so we visited this quaint and rather discreet little eatery in Mission Hills.

Come to think of it; we've always had  a table on the little patio out front....I don't think we've stepped into the dining room!

The menu is a fairly tight one, not too many dishes, but the range, at least in geographic terms is vast. The menu is broken up into five sections; Salads, Bocaditos (appetizers), Crudo, Flat Breads, and A la Carte items. All items are meant to be shared.

Funny thing; I'm not much of a Sangria person, but I did enjoy the White Sangria, especially during the hot spell we had a few months back. While it edged toward the sweeter side; I think the lychee and cinnamon gave it a nice refreshing and "clean" taste.

On our three visits, we were basically the only people eating at Fools and Kings, of course it was early in the week and for dinner; like 430-5pm or so.

Each meal started with some Canchita, which always made us smile as it reminded us of our favorite little place in Miraflores.

Anyway, just like other posts of the same ilk. Here are our picks and pans.

Our favorite here is the Stuffed Piquillo Peppers ($10).

The peppers are stuffed with crab and goat cheese, a nice, rich combination....creamy, savory, sweet, milky, a tad of mild heat from the peppers. Served on a toasted and pressed, yeasty and light bread, it was very much a "Montedito". This was by far our favorite dish and we had it on every visit. The simply dressed greens added a nice bitterness and "green" flavor to temper things a bit. In fact, we thought the greens in most of the dishes were nice and simple.

We both also enjoyed the Lamb Sausage ($14).

This reminded us of Merguez, a bit more meatier, but it still had those nice spices that reminded us a bit of what we had during almost every meal in Tunisia.

The Missus enjoyed the Lentil and Burrata Salad ($8).

Of course, She loves puy lentils and corn...and Balsamic Vinegar. The burrata had a light milkiness, a mild acidity, and was very soft, but not runny. I actually enjoyed the yeasty bread, as I thought this salad was like something I make at home.

I really didn't care much for the Sauteed Wild Mushroom with Burrata ($10).

For some reason, I didn't care for the milky-acidity of the burrata, along with the texture of the cheese combined with the earth flavors of the mushrooms. It was a bit to much with the truffle oil; even for me a truffle oil lover. I mainly enjoyed the greens and the bread.

Sadly, our two "pans" were both of the Crudo we had.

We gladly waited the 20 minutes or so for the Cebiche ($14), you know how much the Missus loves Her cebiche. And this would have been pretty good; that leche de tigre was nice and bright in flavor, great acidity, I even asked for another spoon to eat my canchita in the leche de tigre.

The problem was that the fish was still partially frozen; we bit into ice crystals with every bite. It had also spent a bit too long in the leche de tigre. The camote, sweet potato had very little flavor was quite mushy.

On our next visit we tried the Tuna Carpaccio ($15). I dunno about combining Extra Virgin Olive Oil with Soy Sauce....like that Yellowtail with Olive Oil and Soy Sauce in in my previous post on Sushi Noguchi; I find the flavors really clash.

The fish was decent quality, but also on the mushy side....I believe they mix duck pate in with this? It was just a strange mish-mash of flavors and textures for us.

Overall the service was friendly and relaxed. Our dishes did take a while, but we were in no rush. Prices aren't bad....but this might sound a bit strange based on the wide geographic swath of the various dishes. But the menu just seems a bit limiting for us; there isn't that two or three dishes we want to return for. At least not for a while. Maybe when the weather turns warmer that White Sangria will call to me. Until then I might just "wander very far, Very far, over land and sea....." Yeah, go ahead and call me Nature Boy:

"And then one day
A magic day he passed my way
And while we spoke of many things
Fools and kings
This he said to me
The greatest thing you'll ever learn
Is just to love and be loved in return"

Fools and Kings
4015 Goldfinch St
San Diego, CA 92103
Hours:
Tues - Fri 430pm - 10pm
Sat - Sun  10am - 2pm, 430pm - 10pm

Eli's Peruvian Kitchen Revisited

After working on a recent Sunday; I decided to revisit Eli's Peruvian. It's not easy coordinating visits since they have limited hours only open from 11am to 5pm Wednesdays thru Satruday, and 10am to 4pm on Sundays. I'd arrived on Sunday, forgetting that the Sunday Breakfast menu was being served. So no cebiche for me this time around.

I ended up ordering the Adobo de Chancho Arequipeño which was a special on this day.

Adobo de Chancho Arequipeño is a hearty pork stew that originates from the Arequipa (duh) area of Peru. The stew is usually beer - vinegar based; with paprika to add smokiness. With garlic and onions to add pungency.

The pork in this dish was well seasoned and very tender. The stew had a nice tangy-salty-mildly sweet-earthy balance which I enjoyed. It was definitely hearty and the portion size was much larger than it looked. Tons of pork in the bowl.

The bread was a standard issue banh mi that was toasted but was already going flaccid.

I enjoy the chica morada at Eli's; for some reason, it doesn't strike me as being too sweet. It did a good job of cutting the richness of the stew.

I was asked my opinion of the adobo and said that it was quite good. They told me they're thinking about adding it as a regular item on the menu. I think it would do fine.

Seems like the food here is improving. And the service is always nice......even if the area is a bit on the shady side.

Eli's Peruvian Kitchen
4979 El Cajon Blvd
San Diego, CA 92115
Hours:
Thurs -Sat 11am - 5pm
Sunday     10am - 4pm

Eli's Signature Peruvian Kitchen

Sometime back in July; I was driving west on El Cajon Boulevard, when I noticed what looked like a Peruvian Restaurant had taken the place of the old Awash, then Meskerem Ethiopian Restaurant. I truly love Peruvian cuisine and was somewhat excited. The only thing being.....I couldn't figure out when this place was open! And then one Saturday morning, I actually parked and walked on over to find the place was only open Wednesdays thru Saturdays, from noon to five. So coming here on a weekday was pretty much off the table.

When I finally had some time on a weekend, the calendar was ready to turn into the New Year. And the place had nicer sign; "Eli's Signature Peruvian Kitchen".

Entering the place from the rather gritty neighborhood takes you into a pretty nice dining area. Much larger than what the façade would indicate.

The very nice young man working here seated me and handed me a menu, which was fairly Spartan, five dishes and a special of the day. Though the five dishes were probably the most well known and popular Peruvian dishes.

I ordered a Chicha Morada to start. It was actually pretty good; less sweet than most that I've had in the states, the best I've had since we got back from Peru. With just the right touch of sweetness and cinnamon flavor.

I instantly homed in on the Seco con Frijoles ($14.95) because it featured two of my favorite things. Seco is a cilantro and garlic based braise, and my favorite version features lamb. The frijoles here were canary beans, a favorite of mine, which shines in the classic Peruvian dish Tacu Tacu.

In this case it was beef, which was very tender, but I do prefer cordero as it adds a nice gamey dimension to the dish. The sauce was on the mild side, I usually enjoy a more assertive minty-anise flavor, with maybe a bitter sweet touch of huacatay. Still, this wasn't bad at all. The beans were creamy, nicely seasoned and my favorite part of the dish. The salsa criolla had a mild vinegary-spicy kick that helped to cut through any richness. The rice looked dry but was fragrant and nicely done.

This meant a return trip. So the following weekend I returned.

This time I started with the classic Papa a la Huacaina ($6.95).

The potatoes were nicely boiled and tender. The sauce was much thicker than other versions I've had of this dish. It was also quite cheesy and had a mild spicy kick to it. I thought the sauce was a bit too thick for my liking. The versions of this dish I enjoy also usually had some acidic-pungent element (garlic/onions), that helped to cut through things which seemed missing here.

Thankfully, I ordered the Cebiche de Pescado ($15.95). The nice young man told me that the fish for today was sea bass and if I was ok with that.

Of course, the first thing I went for was a taste of the leche de tigre, the marinating liquid for the seafood in cebiche. This version was more tannic than sour/tangy, thus a bit more reserved. It did have a good amount of aji rocoto which gave it an interesting amount of spiciness, though it had me wishing for some spicy-fragrant-fruity aji limo. At first I thought the fish had been "cooking" too long in the leche de tigre, but it was very tender, without any off flavors. The camote was lacking in the sweet-cinnamon flavors that the Missus loves at her favorite places. This was a passable version of Cebiche Pescado.

This had me determined to finally try the lomo saltado, the dish that really got me interesting in Peruvian cuisine. So I returned the next day, a Sunday. I saw that Eli's actually opened at 10am on Sunday, so I returned at a bit past 11. So here's the deal on Sunday's. Eli's serves a version of breakfast from 10 to noon on Sundays.

Which was actually fine by me.

You see Lomito al Jugo ($7.95) is basically lomo saltado without the potatoes and rice. It seemed to be quite inexpensive, so I was surprised at the portion size when it arrived.

While the beef was as I expected this price point a bit on the chewy side; it had no metallic or off flavors. Unlike versions I've had recently, the sauce, and there was quite a bit of sauce wasn't too salty. It also had just the right amount of onions and tomato to make the dish interesting. Perhaps a bit too much black pepper, but I really enjoyed the sauce with the bread.

So, I remained determined to get that lomo saltado. Hence, the return visit the following weekend.

And the Lomo Saltado ($14.95).

Sadly, this was my least favorite dish at Eli's. Not enough sauce, so the rather chewy meat seemed even more dry. The potatoes were very soggy. There wasn't enough onions and tomatoes to add pungency and acid to the dish. This came across as rather bland. The rice was also on the dry and tough side. Bummer.

Still, while the food here won't make me forget about Peru, it's decent, straight-forward, middle of the road, classic fare. Plus the folks here are really nice. Things might take a while to get to you; but that's how Peru is as well. On one of my visits, I had a nice chat with three middle aged women from Peru. They come here every other week. They were rather surprised to see me in this rather out of the way place with limited hours. We had a fun discussion about Peruvian food. And the look on their faces when I started mentioning some of their favorite places in Lima as well.

While the limited hours may be a bit of a hindrance, it's probably for the better based on the neighborhood, I'll probably return when I can.

Eli's Signature Peruvian Kitchen
4979 El Cajon Blvd
San Diego, CA 92115
Hours:
Wed - Sat Noon - 5pm
Sunday 10am - 3pm

Pisco Rotisserie & Cevicheria

**** Pisco has closed

If you've read this blog long enough; you know that I love the cuisine of Peru; which, in addition to unique indigenous foods includes an amazing mish mash of all those who came upon its shores, there's something about the food of Peru that really strikes a chord with me.

Funny thing, I recently had an email asking if I'd tried Pisco Rotisserie & Cevicheria, which opened a few months ago in Liberty Station. I replied that I had eaten there 3 times. I was then asked why I hadn't posted on the place yet. I answered that I wanted one more visit before I did a post. I think Pisco did that to me. Opened by Sami Ladecki in the former location of his namesake Sammy's Woodfired Pizza in Liberty Station. I was told that Pisco was designed as his love letter to Peruvian Cuisine, I was really excited to visit.

And my good buddy Candice was more than happy to humor me.

I liked the interior, colorful, yet understated, the service was very good, except when it came to understanding what the place was serving. When we asked about certain dishes, we got blank and confused looks....which happened on a couple of my visits. Good spirited tries......but no cigar.

The Pisco Sour was decent, certainly, not in the league of what we've had in Lima.

It was bit on the weak side. One of my acquaintances told me it tasted more like a margarita than a pisco sour.

The canchita was spot on; not too salty, nice and warm.

And it was just screaming for some cebiche.

Which is what came out first....the "Classico" of course.

While the portion size was fairly small for twelve bucks; the whitefish was nicely "cooked" by the leche de tigre. Very tender in texture, good balance, leche de tigre not too sour, I enjoyed the chocolo (peruvian corn), but lamented the small portion of camote (sweet potato), which wasn't flavored correctly and was too mushy for my taste.

We'd recently been back in Lima rather recently and had really enjoyed the "Leche de Tigre" styled dishes at places like El Veridico de Fidel, I was intrigued by what the Martini de Tigre ($14) was going to be like.

This was way too acidic, sour, and spicy to enjoy. The seafood was nicely prepared, but it was difficult enjoying the dish.

Up next was the Causitas with Crab ($15). This was a very nice version of the classic causita; the potatoes creamy, the crab sweet, without too much mayo.

The potatoes were very moist, not too heavy and the tobiko added a nice textural and slight briney flavor to the dish. the tomatoes added a bit of acid as well.

Of course I had to order what I consider to be, along with cebiche, the national dish of Peru; Lomo Saltado ($16 + $2 for an egg). Adding an egg was a no-brainer.

I love lomo saltado as you can see if you do a search on the blog. On our last trip to Peru, we were struck at how this dish has seemed to evolved into Lomo saltado con Tacu Tacu. Unfortunately, this dish made me rather sad. First off; the dinner fries just seemed out of place, being too large and dry. The beef was on the tough side and had a slight metallic flavor to it. The overall balance in flavor was off and this was just too salty to enjoy.

The Braised Lamb Shoulder ($25) was very interesting. This seemed to be a take on Seco de Cordero.

We didn't care for the texture of the lamb, which was shredded, making things seem a bit mushy. But they sure didn't hold back on the mildly minty-anise-bitter, yet sweet flavor of huacatay. It just went so well with lamb. I enjoyed the crisp fried kale and the sweet Cipollini onion, even though they seemed a bit out of place in this dish. Overall, a very nice entrée.

The visit was a mixed bag that showed some potential. After all, it was grand opening and all that.

So, a few weeks later, I decided to return for just a Pisco Sour and the Cebiche Classico. This time I sat at the bar and met a nice fellow named "Mike" who was from Peru. We had a ncie chat and I got my cebiche.

This version wasn't nearly as good as what I'd had on my previous visit. The leche de tigre was very sour; the fish tough, with a mild fishy taste. On a funny note; when I lamented the portion size of the camote, Mike told me, "in Lima, we most feed that to the dogs anyway"! Must be some lucky dogs. This wasn't very good....which you can just see.....

Still, I waited a couple of weeks and dropped by during Happy Hour. Since I'd enjoyed the causitas the last time; I ordered the "Grilled Octopus:.

A causita by any other name; the garlic infused mashed potatoes were excellent, as was the tender octopus. Not enough piquillo peppers to make much of an impact, though what seemed to be an aji rocoto based sauce was delicious as it did a very nice job of cutting any of the richness in the dish.

On my previous visit, "Mike" had recommended the Carne Empanada, so I ordered that as well. The creamy huacaina sauce proved to be a nice foil for the onions. The filling had a nice flavor, with a mild sweet-smokiness that I detected.

Unfortunately, the middle of the empanada was barely lukewarm.

Not a bad visit, but not great, I was left with mixed feelings.

And so my photos resided in limbo, just kind of hanging around waiting for me to post. Until that faithful email (thanks ST!). I was almost reluctant to return, but decided that enough time had past and I needed to get this post done. So, last week I returned. I again sat at the bar. The dining room was pretty quiet when I arrived, but quickly filled up.

I sat at the bar trying to decided on what to order. I went back to the first few times I had Peruvian food; back in the 90's, living in LA.....the gateway dish for me was Pollo ala Brasa, rotisserie chicken. It had been a while since I'd had a good version. So why not go with the Half Chicken ($17), which came with two sides. I went with the Choclo Garlic Rice and Canary Beans.

Three sauce were provided for the chicken, which came in handy since, while the skin of the chicken was nicely flavored, the meat was a bit dry and on the bland side. The garlic rice was mushy, very salty, and the cholco a bit too hard. The canary beans were very nice; perfectly prepped, excellent texture, slightly smokey....man, they would have killed it with some tacu tacu. That chimichurri sauce was quite heady; though it had me missing the aji verde that used to be served with the pollo a la brasa we used to eat way back when.

So, what to say about Pisco? I've got mixed feelings. I enjoy more restaurant choices, but have never been one to be "just happy to have it", if you know what I mean. I think the best explanation of the food at Pisco is what "Mike" told me that day at the bar when I mentioned that what I'd had at Pisco just wasn't quite "there", if you know what I mean. He told me, "look, I think Pisco is Peruvian food for those who never had Peruvian food. It's an introduction." Fair enough; I had my "gateway dish" all those years ago, but have grown and expanded my horizons. Hopefully, Pisco will too.

Pisco Rotisserie & Cevicheria
2401 Truxtun Rd
San Diego, CA 92106
Hours:
Sun - Thurs 5pm - 9pm
Fri - Sat 5pm - 10pm