mmm-yoso!!!

Road Trip - Jean Pierre Bakery & Wine Bar (Durango), Kakawa Chocolate House, and the "Miraculous Staircase" of the Lorreto Chapel (Santa Fe)

We headed out from Mesa Verde fairly early in the morning. It would be almost a five hour drive to our next destination, Santa Fe. The Missus enjoyed the drive on the 160 East thru the greenery. There was hardly any traffic on this, a mellow Sunday morning. I had heard some nice things about the town of Durango and I'd read about a nice bakery-breakfast spot in there, so we decided to stop. 

We found street parking and walked over to Jean Pierre Bakery, which was doing some good business on this day.

The front area holds a bakery, while there's a restaurant area to the side. And on this morning, a piano player was in attendance.

After a quick discussion we decided to relax and dine in as most of the folks were taking pastries to go and the dining area was empty.

The service was friendly and we got our caffeine fix and shared a nice, refreshing Melon Bowl.

 It was a pleasant stop and we'd eat here again if in the area. And we saw Jean Pierre walk to the dining area and engage in a lively conversation with another gentleman......in full on French. The Missus and I loved it!

I'll be sure to try the croissants next time!

Jean Pierre Bakery & Wine Bar
601 Main Ave.
Durango, CO 81301

After breakfast, the Missus and I decided to take a little stroll around town.

There's a definite outdoorsy - "old west" vibe to the town.

Durango is also known as the starting point for the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad. And folks were picking up their package lunches at the depot and boarding the train as we walked pass.

You know me and trains, right? This might be something we'll want to do in the near future.

We headed across the tracks and spent a bit of time exploring the D&S Rail Road Museum.

I'm sure we'll be back this way one day.

From Durango, we headed down the 550, passing thru towns with names like Aztec and Cuba, until we got to Albuquerque, where we swung up Highway 25 into Santa Fe. We were a bit early for check-in, so we made a stop at a place on our "list"; Kakawa Chocolate House.

    Man, this place was quite busy. The lines did move quickly though. The Missus bought some chocolates and a couple of bags of "elixirs" and we headed on out.

The folks did a really nice job of packing things and even marked the box so the Missus would know what She's trying.

Kakawa Chocolate House
1300 Rufina Circle A4
Santa Fe, NM 87507

And while the chocolates were pretty good; we had them after checking in at our hotel. It was the elixirs that we really enjoyed after returning home.

While we had arrived too early to check-in at the Inn of the Governors, the nice staff told us that we could park and explore. One of the reasons I had chosen the hotel was the location and free parking. 

There was one place I wanted to see right away, the Loretto Chapel. The Missus didn't understand why I was so interested in visiting this church until She saw it.

Apparently, She had seen an an Episode of Unsolved Mysteries about the chapel.

   Well, to be more specific; it's about the staircase in the chapel. The construction of the Lorreto Chapel was completed in 1878. Unfortunately, due to some weird "oversight", there was no way to reach the choir loft which was 22 feet above. After many consultations the Sisters of Loretto were told that the only way to access the choir loft would be by ladder as a staircase would interfere with the design of the chapel. At wits end, the Sisters started praying to the Patron Saint of Carpenters, Saint Joseph. On the ninth, and last day of prayer a stranger appeared on a donkey with a toolbox! He started work on the staircase and months later it was finished. The man then promptly disappeared without requesting to be paid, never to be seen again.

The Sisters tried to find the mystery man, even placing an add in the newspaper to no avail. And that is just one of the mysteries of the staircase. To quote Atlas Obscura:

"When the Sisters and others examined the stairs, they were shocked to see it was apparently holding itself up with no supports and was made of a non-native wood which they didn’t know how or where the stranger had acquired. To top it off, the staircase, which was made with no nails, had exactly 33 stairs. (In the bible, 33 was the age at which Jesus was crucified.)"

"The twenty-foot-tall, tightly wound stairs make two full 360-degree revolutions, and indeed have no central support."

The outer railing was added 10 years after the staircase was built. 

We love stories like this! And whatever the case may be, it was fun visiting the Lorreto Chapel.

Thanks for stopping by!

Paris (2022) - Edwart Chocolatier and Dinner at Le MaZenay

On the way back from lunch we passed this chocolate shop. We were given samples and the Missus ended up buying a variety of items.

This was Edwart Chocolatier and would end up being Her favorite chocolate shop during this trip.

Edwart Chocolatier
17 Rue Vieille-du-Temple
75004 Paris

So I'm certain we'll return the next time we're in Paris.

We then worked our way back to the apartment stopping at a few shops along the way. This was back in May so the days were fairly long.

We headed out for our dinner destination at bit early...the better to do some shopping you know. As we headed up Rue St Denis we came across a couple of women, probably in their 40's-50's, tons of make-up, dressed somewhat provocatively, just standing around. From which this short conversation arose....

Me: "Hmmm.....must be the remnants of the old Saint Denis" (It used to be the Red Light district but is now gentrified)
Missus: "No, way...maybe they are hairdressers taking a break"
Me: "But I see no salons around here...."
Missus: "Maybe they're taking a smoke break from work."
Me: "But none of them are smoking..." 

Bless Her heart....

For dinner I had made reservations at Le MaZenay, a modernish bistro, located in the Marais.

The setting was quite simple and the service friendly.

As with how we typically order, we ended up getting 3 entrees and one plat, with a side.

The Missus really enjoyed the Ouef Confit.

The buttery, creamy egg yolk went so well with the petit pois, which brought a nice, mild sweetness to the dish. The sauce, made with creme fraiche was lighter than it looked and went well with the dish. The croutons added texture.

I got the Tartare de Veau and when it arrived totally drenched in sauce, I was a bit hesitant.

It was still a bit too much sauce, which was nicely flavored. The cut of the protein was to my liking, the meat was tender, and it was chilled well.

We enjoyed the rustic Chicken Liver Terrine.

The rustic terrine wasn't overly offal-ish, had a mild sweetness and went well with the cornichons. It had a pleasant texture and there seemed to be mashed potato in the terrine as well. This was a lot milder in flavor than we expected.

For the main, we chose one of the specials of the evening, the Skate Wing.

   A very pleasant dish. The skate had been nicely prepared, buttery in texture, good black pepper, though perhaps a bit more salt would have helped. Very moist and tender. The accompanying veggies were fine and the caper butter sauce did well with the fish.

We also ordered the Pommes Dauphines which were excellent, crisp on the outside, light and fluffy inside.

This was a nice meal and like I mentioned earlier, the service was quite friendly. At the table next to us sat two women who seemed to be regulars, the chef and his wife, who runs the front of house came out to chat with them. The women were from London and arrived via the Eurostar. Something I'd like to do in the future!

Le MaZenay
46 Rue de Montmorency
75003 Paris, France

It was a nice evening and we took our time heading back to the apartment.

Tomorrow would be our last day in Paris before heading home and we wanted to make the best of it.

 

Mexico City (2022) - It's Tout Chocolate and Pasillo de Humo Yet Again, Fonda Garufa, and a Private Tour of Museo Nacional de Antropologia

**** I though I'd give you all a break from those really long Islay posts and do a couple on our recent trip to CDMX. I've posted on two of the places several times; so perhaps skipping down to our tour of the Museo Nacional de Antropologia might be worthwhile?

Yes, I know we'd already been to Mexico and CDMX earlier in the year. But the Missus had enjoyed that trip so much, San Miguel de Allende and especially Guanajuato was so much fun, that the Missus wanted to do another trip. This time to Oaxaca. However while Volaris, has 2 direct flights from TIJ, well, we really don't like flying Volaris. So, we decided that a layover would be fine one way and we'd go ahead and spend two nights in Mexico City. As a plus, I knew the Missus loved our visit to the Museo Nacional de Antropologia, though it was quite overwhelming, so I booked us a private tour. She was excited about that!

Getting in was the same 'ol routine. We stayed at the same place as on the last three trips. It was quite simple and easy. Like I said, we now had kind of a routine if you will. After checking in, we headed to Tout Chocolate so the Missus could get Her chocolates and some gifts.

Choosing Her chocolates was one of Her most difficult decisions of the trip.

Tout Chocolat
Amsterdam 154
6100 Cuauhtémoc, CDMX, Mexico

In keeping with the routine, we had dinner at a place I've posted on three times already, Pasillo de Humo. So, I'll spare you all the gory details. I will say, that unlike our last visit we weren't misted by vinegar to prevent Covid this time around.

We have an approach that works for us at Pasillo de Humo. We've learned to stay away from the entrees and go for smaller plates.

And we enjoy the cocktails as well.

Two of our favorite dishes, the Memelitas de Cerdo and the Hoya Santa Relleno, were good as always.

But this time we found something we enjoyed even more; the Tripas Tacos!

The pork intestines were fried perfectly; crisp and light......the texture was amazing!

One other reason that I purposely chose to revisit Pasillo de Humo was that we were headed to Oaxaca and I was interested in seeing how the food at our favorite restaurant in CDMX lined up.

Pasillo de Humo
Av Nuevo León 107
06100 Cuauhtémoc, CDMX, Mexico

It was a nice and relaxing start to things. Though I did notice many more "tourists/ex-pats" here then I recalled. And then I started reading articles like this one.

The next morning, before heading to the Museum, we decided to get a croissant from our favorite bakery in the area, but changed our mind when we noticed this place sold croissants and thought we'd try it out.

We then headed on over to Cafe Toscano, our usual morning coffee stop.

Unfortunately, the croissant was overly doughy and lacked the butteriness we like in our croissants.

Fonda Garufa
Avenida Michoacán 93
06140 Cuauhtémoc, CDMX, Mexico

Creatures of habit that we are; we had our typical morning coffee at Cafe Toscano.

Nothing amazing mind you, but a nice way to start the day.

Cafe Toscano
Calle Michoacan sn Mercado Condesa
Hipódromo Condesa, Cuauhtémoc, CDMX, Mexico

After our caffeine fix we headed out to the Museum. As always, it was a fine walk.

We had really enjoyed our previous visit to the Museo Nacional de Antropologia, so I went ahead and booked a private tour with Mexico a Pie Walking Tours.

Our guide was Andres and he was amazing. The tour was so full of info!

We met Andres at the Tlaloc Statue that sits outside the museum on the corner of Reforma.

Andres met us and after introductions and an overview of what was going to be covered in the tour today, he went over Tlaloc, the Aztec god of water and rain. He noted the key features, the round eyes, the fangs and said that we'd be seeing several different status of Tlaloc during our visit and that many folks think it's of a different go, but keep in mind the key features and it's easy to identify.

Andres covered exactly what we were interested in; the Archaic to the Contact Period. It was so much info; I'm just going to go over a couple of things that really stuck with us.

 

Andres quizzed us as we moved along the museum.

  And yep, if you're thinking that's Tlaloc above, you'd be right. Check out the eyes and the fangs! 

Another interesting story was that of King Pakal of Palenque (K'inich Janaab' Pakal). It is claimed that Pakal ruled for nearly 70 years and in 1952 a tomb was opened in the Temple of Inscriptions in Palenque. In it was found a skeleton with an intricate jade mask and clothed as you see to the right. The actual jade mask can be found close by in a replica of the tomb.

We got to another interesting topic was when I asked Andres if Jade was actually found in Mexico and he told us that items like Jade, Turquoise, and Cacao which are not endemic to Mexico. We were then brought to this map which detailed how trade occurred between different peoples!

Turquoise actually came from what is now the American Southwest! Cacao and Jade from what is now Guatemala.

Andres went over the amazing Aztec Codex with us.

And even dispelled a couple of things we thought were true; like this famous object; the Aztec Sun Stone, which many people believe is a just a calendar.

It is now believed that the stone is actually a sacrificial altar! Here's something I read after returning from our trip.

It was an amazing nearly four hour experience, with so much information that I've forgotten more than I remember; but those few items stick with me. And we just covered half the museum! I guess we'll have to get the other half done the next time we're in CDMX!

Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Avenida Paseo de la Reforma y Calzada Gandhi s/n
Chapultepec, Mexico City 11560, Mexico

After the tour we took a short break and then we were off. It was time for a taco crawl!

Stay Tuned!

Mexico City (2022) - Pasillo de Humo and Tout Chocolat Revisited and Coffee from La Catrina (Coyoacan)

As we headed into fall of 2021, things were looking pretty good. The Missus and I, fully vaccinated were looking to take care of the vacancy that not being able to travel internationally had created. So, we decided to "dip our toes" into the pool so to speak and not go too crazy......and go to one of our favorite destinations; Mexico City. The Missus also had another destination in mind and I worked out the logistics. Of course, along came Omicron, but by that time we both had gotten our boosters and when it was time for our trip, we decided to go ahead with it.

In some ways, it was good to start things off with CDMX as we had felt welcome and comfortable there from the first time we set foot in the city. We'd be staying at the same accommodations as our previous trips and was familiar with the area. It would also be interesting to see if things had changed over time.

We did the CBX thing and flew out of TJ.....

 We had a morning flight and were served breakfast. I quickly noticed the new "required accessory" that came along with breakfast.

We landed and found our transport to Condesa and checked into our hotel.

Things initially felt a bit strange, but once in the comfortable and familiar confines of the area, things started feeling normal....just like in the "old days".

Having arrived late in the afternoon, I had made reservations at a place I've posted on twice, so I'm mainly just putting up photos. We had decided to have dinner at Pasillo de Humo because we've always enjoyed the food, atmosphere, and service.

There was one interesting Covid precaution when entering the restaurant which is on the second floor of a food hall. You went thru a device that misted vinegar on you! You smelled pickled before you even had your first cocktail! 

And that Memelitas de Cerdo, the pork cheek memelitas were so good, we had a second order!

   Then the Missus had Her dessert....while I had, ahem, mine.

This was of course, the place where I first had Ojo de Tigre....from the modified hand truck with like 30 bottles of Mezcal on it. These days everything is based on QR codes. I spoke to our wonderful Server about Ojo de Tigre and was told they don't serve that here anymore. The reason? 

"Too many Ojo de Tigre!"

I'm guessing that Ojo de Tigre production is hitting mainstream and is now easily available. So I had him pick something "mui fumar" (smoky) for me, which he did.

It was really good!

Pasillo de Humo
Av Nuevo León 107
06100 Cuauhtémoc, CDMX, Mexico

After dinner we took a short walk to another regular stop, Tout Chocolate. We've been here on every visit to CDMX; but strangely, I couldn't find a post on the place. This place has been a stop for us since our good friend "Alle" recommended it to us several years back.

Part cafe, part chocolate/confection shop....you know what the Missus was after, right?

She acquired a nice variety of chocolates.

Tout Chocolat
Amsterdam 154
6100 Cuauhtémoc, CDMX, Mexico

Then we decided to call it a night. It had been a wonderful evening for us....it just seemed so comforting.

The next morning we had tickets and reservations for Museo Frida Kahlo and decided to get there before our 10 am entrance time and grab some coffee. Uber is amazing in Mexico, very affordable and very safe since all cars are tracked. We got to Coyoacan an hour before our designated time. So we headed off to get our caffeine fix. I had initially planned on getting some coffee from Café El Jarocho a pioneer in the CDMX coffee scene, established back in 1953 eventually  spawning 8 other locations in CDMX.

But the lines were long and even though everyone (just like elsewhere in Mexico during our visit) wore masks, it was just too crowded with little seating.

We decided on the shop across the street named La Catrina.

The young lady working was very sweet. And they had al fresco tables and seating.....

And here we came across one of those "memorable" moments. A sweet young lady came up to the window. She seemed a regular customer as the folks working knew her. Her companion and "bodyguard" was a tiny, three legged Chihuahua. I say bodyguard because this little one had some personality and was quite protective of the young lady! The pooch would ignore the smaller poodles and such that walked by.....but oh, when the larger dogs passed by, be it a Rottweiler or Pit Bull, the little fellow would start growling! Which is probably how he ended up with three legs! We started calling him "Tripod".....and no one messes with Tripod, no one! I regret not taking a photo of this Bada$$! 

As often happens when enjoying oneself, time flew by. Soon it was time to head on over to Museo Frida Kahlo. I went and took our cups back to the counter which brought a smile and a "gracias" from the young lady working. Meanwhile, Tripod let me pet him and scratch his ears and his owner smiled and told us "have a fun vacation!" I guess it was obvious that we were tourists.

Such nice folks.......though you don't mess with Tripod!

La Catrina
Ignacio Allende 45
04000 Coyoacán, CDMX, Mexico

Up next Museo Frida Kahlo

Midweek Meanderings - Where in the world was the Missus? Cuscatlan Salvadoran Coming to Mesa College, Donburi Kitchen Closes, and Other "Stuffs"

Where in the world was the Missus?

Last week was pretty quiet around the mmm-yoso household. The Missus went on a major hiking trip with three other co-workers....all middle aged Asian gals. She sent back some photos to make me envious.

Before the pandemic started; back in the last decade(2019)....yes, it seems that long ago; the Missus was taken by the Grand Canyon. When we returned; the foursome started planning for a rim to rim hike and a stay at the Phantom Ranch, the only lodging below the rim of the Grand Canyon. You get rooms by lottery; so we all went for it.....three of us won and dates were picked; unfortunately Covid came along and the first two were cancelled as the placed closed down. Luckily, they were able to keep the last reservation taken. And so, the four of them headed out to Sedona - Grand Canyon - Sedona. With some wonderful photos along the way.

It even snowed on the day they did the hike down to the bottom of the Grand Canyon.

They had a wonderful adventure!

Spending the rest of their time hiking in Sedona.

While the Missus said the food was not quite "up to par" with Her usual expectations; I managed to find one place for the group that still had open reservations, which turned out to be Her favorite meal.

They are now planning for their next adventure! Good for them!

Cuscatlan Salvadoran Coming to Mesa College:

This one is courtesy of "FOY" MikeW who sent me an email asking if I knew about a Salvadoran place opening on Mesa College Drive next to Homestyle Hawaiian. Say what? I'd just driven past there two weeks ago and didn't notice. I must be slipping in my old age. Anyway, I took a drive over and saw the coming soon sign for Cuscatlan Salvadoran. I believe this is a second restaurant for the Cuscatlan in Escondido?

It'll be nice to have even more variety in the area!

Thanks for the heads-up MikeW!

7516 Mesa College Drive
San Diego, CA 92111

Donburi Kitchen Closes:

So, the first thing the Missus wanted when She got back from Her trip was takeout from Sizzling Pot King; go figure? Anyway; I went and did a takeout order around 1pm and was told that instead of the usual 15-20 minutes wait; this time it was going to take 30 minutes. So, I decided to take a quick drive to see what was happening in the old location of Island Style Cafe. When I arrived at the strip mall; I quickly noticed that Donburi Kitchen had closed.

 Sure, I wasn't a big fan, still, it's sad to see another closure probably due to the pandemic.....though maybe they have the same landlord issues that ISC had.

It looks like it'll be some kind of chocolate shop?

6030 Santo Rd
San Diego, CA 92124

And finally......sometimes there are gestures that make my day. Like this one.

Ok DTF, I'll be back one of these days! Thanks for the thoughtfulness......

Take care everyone and have a safe week!

Paris - Pere Lachaise Cemetery, Sadaharu Aoki, and Dinner at Café Constant

We awoke on our first full day back in Paris ready to go. We had the remnants of our previous evening's shopping and then headed off. The Missus wanted to visit Pere Lachaise Cemetery, mainly because She had read about it in various guidebooks. I knew of the cemetery because of one specific gravesite. I thought this would be kind of neat, so I was all for it. We caught the metro and got off at the Pere Lachaise stop.

Walking the winding paths, we were taken in and overwhelmed. It was at the same time haunting and yet beautiful. Each grave and tomb told a different story.

And while I had a mental list of all the famous laid to rest here; Chopin, Oscar Wilde, Gertrude Stein, Edith Piaf, we were so taken in by "la cite des morts" (the city of the dead), that in the end, I really only tried to find the final resting place of one American.

I sent a text to one of the folks whom I knew would understand, CC.

And still there were a few interesting resting....and perhaps "non-resting" (for now) that caught our attention.

I noticed this grave had metro tickets lying on it.

So I felt compelled to add mine to the pile.

The Missus looked at me and said; "why are you doing this, you have no idea who this person is." To which I replied "this is Gilbert Morard former head of SNCF, the official train company of France!". Google to the rescue again!

We found this tomb to be kind of freaky.

A camera stares back at you........ When we got back to the states I found that the person this is meant for, André Chabot is still alive. This space is reserved for André Chabot a photographer who specializes in "funeral art". Go figure....

That's not to say there aren't any tombs that aren't plain creepy and scary.

  In the end, while we really enjoyed Pere Lachaise, I don't think we saw everything we wanted to. We'll definitely be back to this fascinating "la cite des morts" again.

We decided to walk back to the 7th (of course), taking the long way.

We soon passed the flagship store of Galeries Lafayette and the Missus was totally entranced by the Christmas displays. From the huge Christmas Tree several stories high, with balloons slowly rising up and down as the tree slowly spins. We linked to several videos we took in our Christmas post.

If that doesn't stir the inner child in you; the window displays along Boulevard Haussman will.

It's mesmerizing and so wonderful. And less you think there's no rhyme or reason to it....well, every year, the display tells a story. On this Christmas season, it was a love story, of a pigeon named Pierre and a dove named Coco. They run into each other in Fairground and the window displays tell that story.....

Who doesn't love a Christmas romance? We ended up stopping by Galeries Lafayette several times. And without fail, the Missus just had to go in and view the trees and spend about 20-30 minutes staring at the window scenes.

As we got close to our apartment, we stopped at the Rue Saint-Dominique location of Sadaharu Aoki.

Sadaharu Aoki is well known for blending Japanese flavors into traditional French desserts.

So, of the Missus had to add to Her growing dessert collection. She bought a dozen bonbons and really enjoyed them.

Sadaharu Aoki
103 Rue Saint-Dominique
75007 Paris, France

We wanted a place that was casual and low stress for dinner. The Missus had enjoyed our dinner at Christian Constant's Les Cocottes on our previous visit to Paris. So why not complete the set and visit his no reservation, open all day, Café Constant.

Man, this place was packed.......a combination of Parisians and tourists.

The service was quite genial and while it didn't look like there was room for us....they made some....under the stairwell. Which we got a kick out of.....

To tell you how laid back this place is....well, the couple next to us had their Lab under their table. He'd poke his head out once in a while hoping for a hand-out!

We decided to just go for the 36 Euro 3 course meal....something easy, not much thinking involved.

The Missus started with the Tartare de saumon, huîtres et bar au gingembre - Tartare of oysters, seabass and salmon seasoned with ginger and lemon, which was surprisingly good and refreshing.

Not too heavy handed on the ginger; very tender salmon and seabass, this was much better than I expected.

I had really enjoyed the rustic Country-style Pate at Les Cocottes and they had the same one here on the menu.

Nice earthy flavors, not overly rich, just as I remembered.

As Her main the Missus had the Parmentier de cuisse de canard croisé au vin rouge, pommes gaufrettes - Potato Parmentier with duck in red wine sauce and potato gaufrettes.

Again, done by the book and done well. Nice potatoes; the sauce wasn't overly salty or winey, the duck toothsome, but not tough, with a nice earthy-gamy flavor.

I had the Stewed Beef Cheeks - Joues de boeuf.

The beef cheeks were very beefy, tender, and the potatoes and carrots were nicely stewed; not mushy, not hard. The stew itself needed a bit of help with some salt and pepper though. The texture of the stew was good as it nicely coated one's tongue.

The Missus got Her first Rum Baba, which She immediately took to.

Too sweet for me....but She loved it.

I had a forgettable cheese plate......

In the end, the service was good, the food, while not amazing was comforting, the price not bad....for Paris. Like Les Cocottes...no muss, no fuss, no complaints.

Sometimes you want a by-the-book dependable meal and this did the trick......

Café Constant
139 rue Saint-Dominique
75007 Paris, France

It was time to get some rest......tomorrow was going to be a shopping day for the Missus!

Sapporo: Dosan-Shokusai HUG Mart, Le Petite Boule Chocolatier, and Breakfast at the Hotel Monterey Sapporo

After having our hybrid late lunch - early dinner at Ramen Zero, we decided to check out the Tanukikoji Shopping Arcade which is almost a kilometer long. Along the way we passed by this interesting looking market.

This shop had two parts; one side a small collection of eating establishments called "HUG Eat" and the other half a market selling Hokkaido produce, dairy, and other Hokkaido food products.

Yes, I said dairy. Hokkaido has a sizeable dairy industry and you might be surprised to find items like Hokkaido milk, yogurt, and yes, cheese are quite popular.

Some of the produce had photos of folks I'm assuming are the farmers who grew the product. It was kind of charming, even though some of the photos looked like mugshots.

I really enjoyed this shop and will definitely drop by if I'm ever back in Sapporo.

Dosan-shokusai HUG
Tanukikoji 5-chome
Chuo-ku, Sapporo, Japan

We made our way to the other end of the shopping arcade, then decided to head back to the hotel.....

Of course we got joyfully lost along the way. Finally ending up at this chocolate shop.

Where the Missus bought a couple of treats for Her mom and a few for Herself.

Le Petit Boule Chocolatier
8-2-7 Kita 1-jo Nishi
Chuo-ku, Sapporo, Japan

In spite of not having a sweet tooth; I really enjoyed the snacks in Hokkaido. New Chitose Airport was "sample heaven" and I loved this particular melon flavored corn and chocolate snack that I normally wouldn't have given a second glance to.

Darkness had fallen quickly, and even though we got turned around a couple of times, we ended up at the Daimaru located next to Sapporo Station.

Which was close to our hotel.

We finished up the evening with some snacks and another thing we picked up in Hokkaido; really flavorful black bean tea!

One of the reasons Akiko had recommended staying at the Hotel Monterey was for the buffet breakfast, which the Missus loved.

I'm usually not a big buffet fan, but this was a bird of another feather. There was a section with typical Western style breakfast items; then some typical Japanese items like chicken karaage and such. Of course there was Hokkaido dairy products and I had a chance to sample the milk and yogurt. It was the selection of more traditional items that we really took to. The Missus discovered that She loved mentaiko, shiokara, and other items She deemed "too fishy" here in the states. As an egg lover, She blissfully consumed the onsen tamago. I loved seeing the Missus enjoy eating this way.

I'd never had black bean natto before and we both found it delicious. I felt totally at home having these items for breakfast. I did notice that most of the younger folks; all Japanese went for the Western pastries and such and the older folks (I guess I'm an old fart) took to the more traditional items.

Good call Akiko! We loved the breakfast buffet!

And we needed a healthy start to the day. There were small snow flurries the night before, but it had all melted in the morning sun. Still, the temps were in the mid-30's.

And we were headed to the city where the lowest recorded temperature (think of where Celsius and Fahrenheit meet) in the history of Japan was recorded.

See you there!

Zen Peninsula (Millbrae) and Chocolates from Rue Du Thé/Leland Tea Company (Burlingame)

We had really enjoyed our time visiting Petaluma and hitting the Cheese Trail, which was a great time. But, all things must come to an end, and it was time head back to SFO. But not before the really friendly cat came by to bid us farewell.

I'd planned a single stop on the way to the airport and we decided to getting Dim Sum at Zen Peninsula which had been recommended to us. A big plus was it was basically on the way to the airport. The small parking lot is quite odd here, since the dining room is one of those cavernous dim sum places.

We were hungry and ended up ordering way too much food....well, it didn't seem to be a lot when we ordered, but the portion sizes seemed quite large.

We were also quite surprised at how slowly this place filled up....a slow trickle of people. The place wasn't even full when we left at 1145. Anyway, on to the food.

The Missus enjoyed the Chicken Feet.

This was decently flavored, good soy, fermented black bean, but nothing special. Still, it was toe-sucking goodness to the Missus.

The Gailan was under-cooked; very crunchy, lacking in flavor.

The flavor of the Pork Neck was nice; sweet and savory.

But the Missus didn't care for the almost crunchy texture of it.

The portion size of the Soy Sauce Noodles was quite large.

This was ok if a bit too salty.

The Missus saw Turnip Cake with XO Sauce and automatically thought it would be like Sea Harbour.

No such luck Chuck. The flavor was on the milder side and the radish cake a bit too mushy for our taste. Still, not bad. One funny thing; we didn't want to waste food so ended up taking this on our flight.......nothing like the smell of XO sauce on Virgin America!

I saw the Mustard Steamed Pork Intestine and decided I needed to try it. It was very fragrant, and the "sauce" tasted good, though I wasn't a big fan of all the scum.

And while there were some bits that looked like part of the Piggy's last meal floating around; the pungency of the dish masked all of that. This also added to the pungency of our carry-on....I really felt bad. In fact, I made sure not to buy any washed rind cheeses so as to not bother other passengers.....and here I was bringing pork intestine along for the flight. Luckily, no one sat around us and the flight was relatively empty. I didn't see anyone sniffing around wondering "what the heck is that smell"......

One last item I wanted to try was the Duck Liver Sausage Bun. Think ducky lapcheong.

While I felt the steamed bun could have been a bit lighter....it seemed to be getting gummy pretty quickly; I liked the flavor. The Missus's Shandong roots betrayed Her as She declared this way too sweet.

In spite of what you might think upon reading to this point; this was a decent dim sum meal; nothing spectacular, but still better, and cheaper than San Diego. Of course the Missus wanted to head to the SGV as soon as we got home.

Zen Peninsula
1180 El Camino Real
Millbrae, CA 94030

We finished lunch a bit earlier than expected, so I decided to head over to Burlingame. I'd heard that one of the Tea Shops also made tea infused chocolates. After finding a parking spot, which was a lot more difficult than I anticipated, then wandering around a bit....the shop isn't the easiest place to find....we got to Rue Du Thé , which I believe is also named Leland Tea Company.

Really friendly folks. And while not on the same level....according to the Missus as Wine Country Chocolates, She did enjoy what She selected. Especially the chili infused chocolates.

Rue Du Thé
1223 Donnelly Ave
Burlingame, CA 94010

We really enjoyed our short trip to the Bay Area. In fact, the Missus is already planning a return....for more cheese!

Thanks for reading!

Portland: Moonstruck Chocolate Cafe, Alma Handmade Chocolates, and The Commons Brewery

*** Moonstruck, Alma, and the Commons have all closed

Having completed breakfast, the Missus was ready to start with today's mission....first chocolates, then beer.

A few blocks away was a location of Moonstruck Chocolate Café.

We entered the tiny shop so the Missus could add to Her collection of confections. The woman manning the counter was very nice and we found the Oregon Craft Brewers collection to be quite interesting. I did have a taste of the Rogue Hazelnut Brown, which was really, really, good.

And so the Missus was able to add to Her collection and we were able to grab a few gifts as well.

Moonstruck Chocolate Cafe
608 SW Alder St
Portland, OR 97205

On our way back from The Cheese Shop the previous day, I pointed out a chocolate shop named Alma. The Missus did a Google Search and came up with an address. It said NE 28th Street......which was strange since I recall seeing the shop fairly close to the Hawthorne Bridge. But we trudged onward for 2 miles and change.....

I did get to take this really nice photo of the Steel Bridge though.

Upon arriving, I knew we hadn't passed this shop the day before. Temps were going to hit the mid 90's on this day and I was already hot and bothered by the time we arrived.

But at least the Missus got to add to Her chocolate collection.

We did learn that Alma had just opened their second shop on SE 7th a few days ago....which is why it didn't appear in the Google search. The girl here thought it was pretty funny that we'd walk all the way from Downtown to visit....

Alma Chocolate
140 NE 28th Ave
Portland, OR 97232

Man was it getting hot......and the Missus could tell it was getting to me. We stopped and had a Pellegrino at the nearby Whole Foods, which I recalled from the time we ate at Davenport on our last trip. Revived we decided to do the mile and a half walk to The Commons Brewery, which we had also seen on the #15 bus the day before. It was a long mile and a half and by the time we saw the building, the Missus was doing a good bit of whining.

Loved the industrial look, the high ceilings and wide open spaces. I do wish there was some A/C though as was getting a bit warm in the building.

Loved the beer selection and the place seemed to complete the set with their own resident Hipster.

The Commons brews Belgians, a lot of Saisons, which seemed perfect for a hot day like this.

So we started with a flight of tasters.

My favorite on this day was the very clean, slightly grassy, refreshing, "Petit Classique".

This was a nice stop.

The Commons Brewery
630 SE Belmont St
Portland, OR 97214

We decided on catching the bus back...on our now favorite route, #15. As we left, the bus had just stopped across the street. We were stuck on the red light. But this is Portland and they have some of the nicest bus drivers we've ever run into. I waved at the driver, she smiled and waved back and made a hand sign telling me not to rush across the street....you gotta love these folks!

You gotta love Portland!

Sonoma: OSO Restaurant, Wine Country Chocolates, and Vella Cheese Company

I thought it quite a coincidence, Ed from Yuma told me he and Tina had just returned from Sonoma and had a post ready. I mentioned that we headed in that direction in just a couple weeks. Ed and Tina both enjoy nice wines, so a trip to Sonoma made perfect sense. So what were we after? Well, cheese of course! We'd been enjoying various Northern California Cheeses for a while and while doing a bit of research, I came across the Sonoma Cheese Trail and soon enough I was looking for flights and accommodations. In the end, we flew Virgin America, and really enjoyed the service....and ended up staying at an AirBnB in Petaluma. The drive up from SFO was nice, the Missus always gets a kick driving on the Golden Gate Bridge. Since we couldn't check in until later in the day, we headed straight away to Sonoma......man, it was pretty darn hot when we arrived.

Things went off the rails a bit when we found that the place we had planned on having lunch at; the Epicurean Connection had closed and we had to find a Plan B. Which turned out to be right on Sonoma Square named OSO. The name hit home since "Oso" in Spanish means "bear" and for some reason this brought me back to our recent trip to Madrid and El Oso y el Madroño, The Bear and the Strawberry Tree, Madrid's Coat of Arms.

The place had a very relaxed vibe, our Server, who asked us to forgive any small errors because she was in training was perfect. The menu featured some small plates, salads, a burger, salmon, and the like.

The Missus enjoyed Her Cucumber Gimlet, which was very clean tasting and refreshing. I had a Orange Mule, the ginger beer did the same for me.

We started with the Little Gem Salad ($8).

Simply dressed, very petite, the Missus loved the beets. I thought the pistachios were a nice touch.

Without a doubt, the best item we had were the Deviled Eggs ($10).

The filling was perfect, light, with just the right amount of curry to enhance and lift the flavor of the yolks. The paprika added a touch of smokiness....and the crown jewel was the sweet crab that topped the eggs. The Missus loves Her eggs....and She really enjoyed this.

The Mole Braised Pork Shoulder Tacos ($14), left something to be desired.

The mole negro was very bland and mild, something that a mole should not be. The pork was dry and the centers cold. The tortillas rapidly fell apart.

Overall, a decent start to our couple of days in the area. We enjoyed the vibe, casual, relaxed, and the friendly service.

OSO Sonoma
9 E Napa St
Sonoma, CA 95476

Our next stop was right up the street. Tucked into a small shopping arcade. Blink and you might miss the sign.

Belgium really made the Missus into a chocolate lover, so this was a nice stop for us.

The place was doing some great business.

The Missus had a few tastes and made Her selections. I saw Her having one the other day and She told me they are quite enjoyable. I believe the chocolates are actually made in Glen Ellen.

Wine Country Chocolates
414 1st St E
Sonoma, CA 95476

We headed away from Sonoma Plaza, a few blocks North and found the actual reason we decided to stop in Sonoma; Vella Cheese Company.

Located in the old Sonoma Brewing Company Building which was built in 1904. When prohibition hit, Gaetano Vella took over the building to make cheese in 1931.

Vella Cheese is known for their "dry jack" a Monterey Jack styled cheese that is aged for 7-10 months. We ended up having a nice round of tastings and decided that it was the Mezzo Secco that we enjoyed the best.

"Mezzo Secco" means "half dry" and this version of Jack cheese is aged from 4-7 months. It's nicely neutral with nicely balanced nutty-grassy-milky flavors. It tastes great solo. It's also fairly hardy and would make the trip back to San Diego with no problem.

Vella Cheese Company
315 2nd St E
Sonoma, CA 95476

On the way back to the car we ran into this rather friendly guy....

In spite of the little "hiccup" at the beginning; things were turning out well. We were happy to get back to the car though.....the temp in the car read 97 and we were happy for some AC. Next up...we were off to Petaluma.

Thanks for reading!