mmm-yoso!!!

HitH - Robert Burns Supper at Dan Diegos

Here's another H(anging) i(n) t(he) 'H(ood) post. 

Sometimes things work in rather mysterious ways. For some reason, I was feeling like taking a nice walk and I hadn't been to Dan Diegos since before Covid. So I figured it would be a good walk, about two-thirds of a mile and I headed on down. "ST" had sent me a recent email recommending the Lamb Sandwich at Dan Diegos so that was the purpose of my visit. But when I arrived, I was waylaid by the special of the day.

The sign said "Bobby Burns Night - Dinner: Haggis with Neeps and Tatties". Shades of Scotland! I consider DDs to be sort of an Irish pub, so the last thing I would expect would be a Burns supper, which celebrates Scottish Poet Robert Burns, author of such works as Address to a Haggis. But here it was...and here I was.

The folks here have always been quite friendly and all the folks sitting at the bar seemed to be regulars. And they were quite curious to see me order the Haggis, Neeps, and Tatties. The woman working the bar told me that the chef had been working weeks trying to get the Haggis "right". And I was more than happy to be the first to order it.

So, how was it? Well, it nicely seared, this had a ton of oatmeal in it. I'm not sure if it had much offal as the flavor was quite mild....no, this was definitely not like what we had at Drover Inn along Loch Lomond. It was nicely seasoned, with some earthy tones, and quite filling. Sort of like "Haggis not to Harm"? The neeps (mashed turnips) were good as were the "tatties" (mashed potatoes), though I wasn't a fan of the gluey-bland gravy. I didn't need the mustard or horseradish sauce at all.

To be perfectly honest, I'd have this again. Perhaps I'll call before going to see if they have it. Or maybe I'll have to try the Lamb Sandwich.

This was a fun, serendipitous meal, surrounded by nice folks.

"Auld Scotland wants nae stinkin ware,
⁠That jups in luggies;
But if ye wish her gratefu' pray'r.
⁠Gie her a Haggis!"

Address to a Haggis - Robert Burns

Dan Diegos Pub
2415 Morena Blvd.
San Diego, CA 92110

And I do have a question for you. In terms of distances, what do you consider "your 'hood"? Is it a few blocks, a half mile, a mile, or (god forbid) over a mile?

Edinburgh (2022) - St Giles Cathedral, Dinner at Wedgewood, Deacon Brodie's Tavern, and Breakfast from the Edinburgh Larder

After checking out the Museums and Greyfriars Kirkland we headed back up to High Street. There was one more stop to make before we took a break in the action. Our trip would not be complete without a visit to what is considered Scotland's most important church, St Giles' Cathedral.

    And though we had passed the Cathedral several times a day, and even checked out the gravesite in the parking lot, we had yet to actually enter the cathedral. We were looking for a time when it wasn't too crowded and at this moment the place was fairly empty.

As you would figure for a church that is one, located in Edinburgh, and two, been around since 1124, there are a ton of stories and artifacts. Like, for instance that three-legged stool to the upper right. It's called a "cuttie-stool". 

Here's the story:

 Indeed St Giles has quite a tumultuous history. It was established as a Catholic Church and then came the Reformation and John Knox. Things were changing. It is said that the statue of the Patron Saint Giles was stolen and "drowned in Nor Loch". In 1559 the Lord of the Congregation, led by John Knox marched into the St Giles and took over. John Knox preached in St Giles for the first time....there was a "new sheriff in town". After a brief time when the Roman Catholic party retook the church and the Treaty of Berwick was signed, St Giles once again became a Protestant Church on April 1st, 1560! Whew......all of that in just a year!

If you you want more on the history if St Giles, this is the Cathedral's official website's history page.

Me, I'm just gonna enjoy some stained glass.

It was a fun stop.

We headed back to the apartment and took a short break before heading out to dinner. Unlike the previous evening tonight's dinner locale was close by, a place named Wedgwood The Restaurant.

It was a quaint little restaurant serving modern, seasonal cuisine, that gives you a "wee tour of Scotland".

We started with the amuse and a bit of "bubbly".

And some very tasty bread.

We weren't very hungry, so we went with three starters and a main to share.

Like just about all the seafood we had in Scotland, the Treacle Cured Salmon was delicious.

It really didn't need all the soy and yuzu sauces; though the pickled beetroot was a nice touch. 

The Laurencekirk Duck Breast looked lovely but was a bit on the dry side.

We didn't care for the fennel which was quite strong in flavor and overwhelmed the dish.

The Missus enjoyed the Charred Midlothian Wild Leek.

The wild leek had a nice mildly sweet almost pungent-garlicky flavor. The creme fraiche added a bit of mild acidity and richness. The potatoes had a nice starchiness and this was a good dish overall.

I was looking forward to the Avon Valley Roe Deer Loin and Venison Haggis.

  The lean deer loin had a nice, moist toothsomeness, had been seared and seasoned nicely. It wasn't overly gamy, but you could tell it was venison. The jus was wonderful, not overly rich, and went well with the delicious potato pave. Loved the celeriac puree, but that round ball of venison haggis was super mild in flavor. It did have quite the gritty-grainy texture though.

Overall, a nice meal, great service.

Wedgwood The Restaurant
267 Canongate
Edinburgh, Scotland

We decided to go ahead and do our after dinner stroll and headed back to the Royal Mile. And of course we passed.....

We took a look at another placed we had passed oh, so many times on this trip, Deacon Brodie's Pub. It was such a nice evening, we thought we should do the "tourist thing" and grab a pint!

I went and ordered a pint; the Missus grabbed a table outside, and we watched all the happenings on the Royal Mile.

Like this guy with the owl and what looked like a television crew.

There's always something going on!

Deacon Brodies Tavern
435 Lawnmarket
Edinburgh, Scotland

We then headed back to the apartment.

Well, it was still early, so we decided to do some shopping and wandered along the various side streets.

We found a leather shop. My belt had taken a beating, so we walked in. The folks were awesome. They were closing in 20 minutes, but he selected the leather, belt style, and sized it for me. They'd be open at ten the next morning, they'd get it ready by the time they opened and I could pick it up then.

Somehow we ended up at Canongate Kirk.

With a statue of Scottish Poet Robert Fergusson "strolling" in front of it.

And of course Canongate Kirkyard, yet another cemetery surrounds the church.

What really kinda freaked us out was that there were apartments right next to the cemetery and the units overlooked the graveyard; not sure I would want to live here.

After this, we decided to call it a night and headed back to the apartment. 

We slept well. Our flight wasn't until 5pm and the owners of the apartment said we were welcome to stay until one.

We took it easy in the morning. For breakfast we decided to do a takeout order from the very popular breakfast and lunch spot that was on the next block up from the apartment. I went and placed a takeout order and the Missus and I went to pick up my new belt which was ready. Man, the service here was awesome.

We then walked on back to the Edinburgh Larder to pick-up our order. There always seemed to be a line here.

We actually picked up our order from the "Little Larder".

It was the Hash Breakfast, which was enough for both the Missus and I.

Nice poached egg, sweet corn, wonderful red potatoes, smoked haddock, which was a bit too much for the Missus. The Chermoula Dressing was nice; a bit of nice cilantro tones, mild garlicky flavors, quite herbaceous.

We finally had a chance to avail ourselves of the generous amount of coffee pods in the apartment.

The Edinburgh Larder
5 Blackfriars St.
Edinburgh, Scotland

We left the apartment at around 1230 and walked on over to Princes Street and caught the tram to the airport. We made it in good time and were now getting excited about our next stop. It was back to Paris!

Edinburgh (2022) - Dinner at Restaurant Martin Wishart

We had wanted one blow out meal during our stay in Edinburgh. So after doing some research and then trying to hunt down reservations I came up with Martin Wishart. Even though the one Michelin Star restaurant was in Leith, almost 2 1/2 miles away, we could always catch a cab if we desired. Of course, as things ended up we walked both ways. It was a fairly pleasant walk. Leith was once Edinburgh's seaport and had fallen into disrepair following World War II. But during the early 2000's, the neighborhood has been revitalized and with the mooring of the Royal Yacht Britannia and the conversion of the Ocean Terminal into a shopping center, along with artists, musicians, and designers moving into the area it has been ranked as one of the coolest neighborhoods in the world. Well, we walked on over and the place seemed quite mellow on this Saturday night, we were probably in the wrong area, but we kind of enjoyed the relaxed nature of things.

We were greeted immediately after entering the restaurant. Service was friendly and professional, though the timing of the dishes was inconsistent as there were a few long waits between dishes. The Sommelier though, was outstanding! He helped the Missus pick Her tasting as if he read Her mind and totally understood Her taste and preferences. 

The Missus and I decided to go with the three course "Market Menu" and each had one of the two choices available for the three courses. That way we could taste one of each item available on the menu.

Things started with some delicious bread and the four course amuse bouche featured beetroot and crowdie, cod roe and fennel, potato and smoked egg yolk, and horse radish and celeriac.

The highlite was the smoked eggyolk and potato, the flavors of each component seemed so intensified

The Sea Bream Tartare was nice though nothing really special.

Having both the strong flavor of lemon and the brininess of capers was a bit much. The soy foam was fine. The fish had been perfectly prepared and marinated though, the texture was a perfect creamy toothsomeness.

The Roasted Veal Sweetbread was an amazing "earthy" and textural delight.

The sweetbread was perfectly fried, crisp coating, creamy interior, slightly earthy and mildly sweet with a hint of offal sharpness. The flavors of the morels added another luxurious layer of earthiness with a nutty finish. The broadbeans finished things off nicely along with the wonderful jus.

Another dish that was perfectly prepared was the Roast Peterhead Skatewing.

The Sauce Grenobloise, featuring brown butter, capers, and good acidity went well with the creamy but mild flavored skate wing. There were a couple of escargot thrown in that really didn't add anything to the dish in our opinion. Loved the confit tomatoes which added a deep acidic fruitiness to the dish. The artichokes were surprisingly creamy.

The Roast Saddle of Dornoch Lamb was wonderfully gamy and meaty, if a bit on the dry side. We loved the rub and sear on this.

This version of Pomme Salardaise, basically garlic potatoes with a good amount of fat, was almost like a creamy croquette. Speaking of croquette, that's a wonderfully porky and crisp fried pork belly on the bottom left which almost looks like one, doesn't it? The asparagus was crisp, fresh, and mildly sweet. The jus featured thyme which was used judiciously and didn't interfere with the overall flavor of the dish.

For dessert the Missus chose the Passion Fruit Creme Fraiche Tart.

Which She enjoyed saying it was both refreshing and quite rich.

I chose the Cheese Course (an extra £10 supplement).

   I wish I took notes on the cheeses. That bleu was fabulous! And like I mentioned earlier the Sommelier was fabulous. When I asked for a "Spot of Port" to go with the cheeses, he selected an amazing Tawny that was perfect with the bleu!

We took the macaroons and "stuffs" to go because we were "stuffed".

The Missus enjoyed these during the rest of our stay in Edinburgh.

Overall, professional but not stuffy service. A bit slow and off in the pacing as the evening wore on, probably due to staffing. The Sommelier was amazing.

Restaurant Martin Wishart
54 The Shore
Edinburgh, Scotland

We then hoofed it back to the apartment. Even though it was a Saturday evening things were pretty quiet as we walked back which was unexpected, but we enjoyed.

We had one more full day in Edinburgh, and we'd try to make the best of it.

Thanks for stopping by!

Scotland (2022) - Dunchraigaig Cairn, Nether Largie Standing Stones, Inveraray Castle, and Dinner at Monteiths (Edinburgh)

**** This is a long one! So, if you're not interested in mysterious stones, castles and such, you can go ahead and scroll down to the food.

We had a great time on Islay, from the Scotch tastings, to the wonderful sights and people, it was a trip we'll not soon forget. But in was now time to head back to Edinburgh. We must have been more tired than we thought...or perhaps our hearty breakfast got the better of us? Both the Missus and I took a nice nap on the ferry back to the mainland.

Since, we were returning rather early in the day, Sean had a couple of stops planned for us. The first two stops was in the Kilmartin Glen area.

We parked in a small designated parking lot and crossed the road where Sean led us to this pile of rocks.

This is Dunchraigaig Cairn. In case you're not sure of what a cairn is, it's basically a pile of stones used as a marker, be it a burial site or to identify a path, or some other purpose. Dunchraigaig Cairn had its first documented excavation in 1864, though it said to have been "badly robbed". It was a very impressive cairn.

Many photos I've seen of this cairn show the entrance, or cist open. On our visit it was closed and I was rather glad, because in 2021 the first Prehistoric Animal Carvings ever found in Scotland were discovered here! Pretty awesome huh?

Our next stop made our day. You know how the Missus and I love the mysterious and unknown, right? Well, after parking we were walked over to a group of standing stones in sort of an 'X' formation.

Whoa, these are the Nether Largie Standing Stones.

The central stone is the largest and covered with lichen. It has cup like indentations.

The outlying stones are aligned in northeast to southwest, so perhaps to mark the solstice or something of that nature?

Just Googling "Nether Largie Standing Stones" will deliver you a wealth of theories; everything from a tool to predict the solstice and eclipse, to burial rituals, to this being a ball court! You gotta love it!

And if that wasn't enough; our next stop was very impressive......

That's Inveraray Castle, home of the Duke of Argyll, who is chief of the Clan Campbell....which means all Campbell's in the world!

It was quite stunning, walking down the path to the castle.

 This really looks like something out of a movie, doesn't it? Touring the estate, the Duke of Argyll and family still occupy part of the structure, was very impressive. The foundation stone of the castle was laid in 1746 and the castle has gone under renovations after two fires. After the fire in 1877, the third floor and the four conical roofs were added. In 1975 another fire engulfed the castle.

What was probably the most impressive room of the castle is the Armory Hall, with its huge collection of weaponry. The ceiling of this hall is 21 meters - that's almost 69 feet high and is said to be the highest ceiling in all of Scotland!

Of course the thought of being in here when a earthquake hit and getting impaled by one of the pole-arms entered my head.....

The Salon was a very nice room.

It is said that Lerner and Loewe actually composed some of the songs from My Fair Lady at this piano while staying at the castle.

This is the Drawing Room.

This is the Victorian Room, located on the first (second floor in the US) floor.

    Of course every castle has at least one ghost, right? Inveraray is noted to have several. The most well known one occupies the MacArthur Room. It is said that a young harpist was murdered by the Duke of Montrose's men in 1644. The the ghost of the harpist is attached to this bed, must be one heck of a bed! And according to the legend, when a family member is about to die you will hear the music from a harp coming from this room!

And there's the "Grey Lady" often said to be the ghost of a former kitchen maid who can only be seen by daughters of the Duke of Argyll!

Nothing like some good "Obake stories" for the month of October, right?

I also enjoyed touring the kitchen in the basement.

Which was last used in the 1950's.

The grounds of the castle are immaculate.

And there must be hundreds, if not thousands of stories.....

That millstone above is said to be cursed.

This was a enjoyable stop!

Sean got us to our AirBnb in Edinburgh in perfect time. The flat was fantastic, just meters from High Street, but still fairly quiet. 

Soon enough, it was time for dinner. We originally had dinner reservations at Forage & Chatter, but the restaurant cancelled our reservations a week before the date. Luckily, I managed to get reservations at Monteiths, which was just around the corner from where we were staying a few days before we arrived in Edinburgh. Like Devil's Advocate, Monteith's was located in a Close. In case you are wondering what a "close" is.

And of course Monteiths is located on Monteiths Close.

The restaurant serves "modern" Scottish cuisine and cocktails. Serves was friendly and efficient. The restaurant was a bit on the dark side so please forgive the photos.

We started with the Beef Tartare.

There was what seemed to be shaved cured egg yolk on this though it didn't add much to the dish. The beef was tender and if a bit coarsely chopped. Nice clean flavors overall.

We also got the Smoked Duck.

The duck had a nice smokiness to it and was on the toothsome side, but still quite tasty. The goat cheese added a bit too much acidity for our taste.

The Potato Dumplings, Wild Mushroom, and Truffle.

Nice mushroom flavors, mild truffle, and the potato dumplings, which were pretty much gnocchi were really rubbery.

The best dish of the evening was the Hot Smoked Salmon.

The salmon was wonderfully smoked, good balance, just enough salt. I wasn't sure about the Hazelnut Bearnaise sauce, but the rich creaminess, along with the herbaceous tones really balanced out the smokiness of the salmon. The nutty buckwheat pancakes was a nice accompaniment as well.

Overall, a decent meal and the staff was very nice. 

Monteiths
61 High St.
Edinburgh, Scotland

After dinner we headed out for a stroll. I thought we'd head up Calton Hill As we headed up, we saw Old Calton Cemetery, something I had on my "list" of things to see. The Missus humored me and we decided to check the place out.

That obelisk is the Political Martyrs Monument. There's even a American Civil War Memorial, with a statue of Abraham Lincoln. Sad to say that photo didn't come out.

Quite a few notable folks are buried here.

Man, look at the dates!

Man, if these tombstones could talk....the stories that could be told.

Instead of heading up Calton Hill, we decided to head on back down. The view was very nice.

We walked down the stairs....

Then crossed over Waverly Station. Took took a short walk down the Royal Mile. Before deciding to head back to the apartment and call it a night. 

Of course we got to Deacon Brodie's Tavern before we decided to turn around. And here was yet another story. You gotta love this one!

"He had designed the gallows that were to eventually seal his fate." Can you say ironic?

Scotland (2022) - More Meals at the Port Charlotte Hotel

We had some extra time on our hands after visiting Bunnahabhain and Bowmore Distilleries, so Sean drove us back past Port Charlotte to the southwestern tip of Islay and a quaint little village named Portnahaven. It as a quite peaceful and sleepy, with a population of 150....we saw not a soul during our visit.

There was a little seaside trail called "Rathas nan Iasgairean" and you know the Missus and trails, right? It was a short and pleasant walk.

On the drive back to Port Charlotte, Sean, knowing that the Missus was charmed by the "Heilan' Coos" stopped a couple of times so the Missus could take some photos and "ooh and aah" over them.

They didn't seem to care about their paparazzi moment....

We got back to the hotel and decided to take a stroll. We headed up the road in the northerly direction.

Past the Loch Indaal Lighthouse.

And past Saint Kiarins Church.

Completed in 1899.

And on up to the Kilchoman War Memorial.

There's a bench and table nearby with the following tag.

From here we headed back. Though we took a short detour up one of the side roads. Because who could resist the adorable sheep and lamb.....

Unlike the "Coos", the sheep seemed a bit curious.....

And the views walking back to to the main road were amazing.

The air so fresh and crisp, the grass so green.....

We got back to the hotel and I saw Sean having a drink at the bar, so I decided to join him while the Missus freshened up. Sean knew the owners of the hotel and one of them was tending bar on this evening. Sean mentioned the Missus's love of really peaty Scotch and the gentleman pulled a bottle of what he called the "most peaty" and it was still sealed. "No one dares drink this....." It was a brand named Octomore. He told Sean he's open it so that we could have a whiff. When he took the seal off, the cork just blew off the bottle! It was hilarious. And man, it smelled like I'd been rolling around on the floor of a cigar factory!

Soon enough Sean had to take leave and the Missus joined me for dinner. We just got a table in the bar area this time.

Of course we got the oysters.

And the Mushrooms....

Just like last time. 

I also ordered the Fish and Chips to share.

It was a bit overdone for our preference and on the drier side. The potatoes were awesome though.

When dessert arrived......

I had an idea! I asked the owner if the Missus could have a "wee dram" of the Octomore and even though he looked at me in disbelief he gladly obliged.

We paid and took the dessert and drinks out to the front area of the hotel, after all "smoking is illegal in public enclosed spaces in Scotland, and the Missus got Her Octomore...and more!

I could see the owner peeking out the window seeing if the Missus would actually drink the stuff; which She did. It was quite funny.

We enjoyed watching folks taking their evening stroll from the al fresco table.....

It was just a perfect end to the day!

The next morning we had breakfast before we headed on back to the mainland.

The Missus had loved the Smoked Kippers I'd had the day before so She ordered that with some poached eggs.

Meanwhile, I went for it and ordered the Full Scottish Breakfast....which was no joke....

It had Baked Beans, good texture but a bit too sweet for my taste, Stornoway Black Pudding, good, a bit gritty, the acidity from the grilled tomato and the lovely fried potato scone really tased good together. The smoked back bacon was quite meaty though tender if a bit on the salty side. I wish the pork sausage was actually Lorne Sausage, but you can't have everything, right? I enjoyed the mushrooms with the toast. And of course a sunny side up egg. Whew........of course this was going to hold me until dinner!

Port Charlotte Hotel
Main St.
Port Charlotte PA48 7TU, Scotland

As we headed on out, Sean turned the music on and the perfect song, one from the days of my youth came on:

"Smiles in the sunshine and tears in the rain
Still take me back to where my memories remain
Flickering embers growing higher and higher
As they carry me back to the Mull of Kintyre

Mull of Kintyre
Oh, mist rolling in from the sea
My desire is always to be here
Oh, Mull of Kintyre"

Mull of Kintyre by Paul McCartney and Wings.

A perfect way to end our stay on Islay.

It was time to skedaddle.

Of course we still had most of a day ahead of us and Sean had a couple of stops prepared!

Thanks for stopping by!

Scotland (2022) - Breakfast at Port Charlotte Hotel, Bunnahabhain and Bowmore Distilleries, and Lunch at The Lochside Hotel & Restaurant (Islay)

On our first full day in Islay, we got up early, and decided to take a short stroll around Port Charlotte.

It was a charming town.

We headed back to the hotel for breakfast.

I saw something that I've always wanted to try on the menu.

It's hard to go wrong with any smoked fish in Scotland and the Missus ordered the Loch Fyne Smoked Salmon with Poached Eggs.

There was a bread, dairy, and cereal station available. The salmon was quite good and the eggs perfect.

I had always wanted to try Kippers and here I finally had a chance. I ordered the Loch Fyne Smoked Kippers.

Man, with the fried potato scone, this was so good. Deeply savory, wonderful smoked fish flavors, perfect salt. A squeeze of lemon to help cut the richness and we were good to go. The Missus had a taste and was sold. In fact, She would order this the next morning for breakfast!

Port Charlotte Hotel
Main St.
Port Charlotte PA48 7TU, Scotland

As usual Sean was on time for our pick-up. One of the benefits of having a private driver/tour is the flexibility. We found that doing three tastings in a day was a bit much for us and asked Sean if he could cut it down to two for this day. Which was no problem.

The first stop was just a quick one. Ardnahoe Distillery was fairly new, opening in 2019. Sean had never been there so he asked us if we'd like to take a look.

It was very modern and sleek looking. It was a nice stop to stretch our legs a bit and the Missus enjoyed all of the portraits of Her favorite animal; the Highland Cow....which they call "Heilan' Coo".

The next stop was Bunnahabhain Distillery. It was quite a drive to the distillery.

   Our visits on this day revolved around tastings, though we were given an short walking tour of the distillery.

Bunnahabhain Distillery is known as the most remote distillery on Islay. We were told that the village of Bunnahbhain was created to actually house the distilleries employees! Their Scotch is also unique as they are known for their unpeated Scotch Whiskey.

When it was time for our tasting were were each given an impressive "tasting kit"!

There was no way the Missus and I would finish one each; so we split one and brought the other home, which I gave to "FOY" JeffP. 

The Missus thought this a bit on the overly "sweet" side; while I really liked the 18yo and the Amontillado Cask versions.

We had quite the drive to our next destination; Bowmore and Sean made a stop at a wonderful ceramic shop named Persabus Pottery which the Missus loved.

She ended up buying a beautiful looking cup

And it looks like cats are loved and most welcomed here!

It was about a half hour drive to the town of Bowmore. Which, after staying in Port Charlotte, and visiting the distilleries and villages seemed like a big city (it's the Administrative Captial)....with a population of.....700!

We made a quick stop at the pharmacy, before heading off to Bowmore Distillery.

The Visitor Center seemed a bit more fancy than the other tasting rooms. And instead of a tour there was a video presentation. Bowmore was the first "legal" distillery on Islay, founded in 1779.

Which came with 2 free tasters of our choice.

It's nicely balanced, with nice fruity tones.

After this tasting we stopped for lunch at the The Lochside Hotel & Restaurant. We'd eaten quite a bit for breakfast, so the Missus and I went with some smaller, starter items.

The Missus enjoyed Her Stornoway Black Pudding.

Which was fairly crumbly, but pleasant to eat, quite moist, not overly "iodiney", and nicely seasoned, perhaps a  bit on the salty side, which made it go good with the poached egg.

If you noticed; I've been looking for dishes I'd read or heard about during my meals on Islay. And here I got the Cullen Skink.

Basically a smoked haddock cream soup....think of it as a less thick smoky chowder if you will. Actually, I enjoyed the rustic bread the most! This was nice and filling.

The Lochside Hotel & Restaurant
20 Shore St.
Bowmore, Isle of Islay PA43 7LB, Scotland

Sean had noticed that we took a bit on interest in the rather unique looking church in the town. So after lunch we drove on up to Kilarrow Church.

It's quite an eye catcher to be sure. Built in 1767, Kilarrow Church is still used to this day, making it the oldest church still in use on Islay.

There's a cemetery right next to the church that caught my eye.

This is a Commonwealth War Graves site.

I was rather shocked to see many "Unknown" tombstones. According to this website there are:

"36 unknown seamen of the Merchant Navy" 

Buried here. Very sad.

We started heading back to Port Charlotte, taking in the views....

Because it was still rather early in the day; Sean had one more stop in mind before dropping us at the hotel! 

Stay Tuned!

Scotland (2022) - Ardbeg, Lagavulin, and Laphroaig Distilleries. Dinner at Port Charlotte Hotel (Islay)

After a nice day in Oban, we headed off early the next morning to catch the ferry to Port Ellen on Islay. It was a bit of a drive and I was quite fascinated with the whole thing as I hadn't ever been on a ferry this large before. I mean the ferry could hold buses and semi's, heavy construction equipment. It let cars in first, then had the cars lifted to the ceiling. I'd ridden the Washington State Ferry several times; but this was much larger.

We were entertained by this pup while waiting to get our van onto the ferry.

It was drizzling a bit and the pooch just wasn't into going to do his business or even a walk. He refused to move until finally; his "Dad" let him back into the car! It was pretty funny. We knew who ran things in this family!

The ferry was quite spacious and well equipped and had several designated areas.

Sean our driver told me to meet him back at the van a few minutes before docking; so we headed out to relax.

We saw the pooch sitting with Dad and eventually napping away in the pet friendly area. It must have been a pretty tough morning! The seats and sofas there were quite comfortable.

After a while, we headed off to the coffee kiosk for a caffeine fix.

There was some pretty comfortable seating here as well.

And the coffee decent as well.

Soon enough we had arrived at Port Askaig.....

Sean had arranged for three distillery visits and we'd be hitting them right in a row.

But first, we stopped here.....

What in god's name is this you might ask? Well, this is what gives Islay Scotch Whiskey its unique character. It's peat, basically an accumulation of decayed organic matter.

The peat is dried, then slowly burnt to give Islay Scotch it's smoky flavor.

And then it was time for our stops. Like many of the tours we do these days...most private or small group, there's just so much information.....I'll just do quick recaps of our visits.

First stop Ardbeg Distillery.

Most of the distilleries we visited had a similar look; the white washed buildings and some had wonderful views as well.

We loved Ardbeg's "mascot"!

We did a tour of the grounds and got a nice history; Ardbeg was established in 1815! We then got a tasting.

Quite peaty; though a good amount of sweetness came thru.

Lagavulin was next. The setting was amazing as there are ruins of a castle right in the bay in back of the distillery. This is Dunyvaig Castle.

We got a nice rundown of the machinery here; some of it unique and almost one of a kind.

The tasting here was quite diverse; everything from really strong with a "bite" to quite peaty. We were told that the pot stills are filled to the maximum at Lagavulin; thus the contact with copper is lower than most other brands creating a unique flavor profile.

The Missus's favorite Scotch is from Laphroaig, so She was looking forward to our visit. And overall, the Laphroaig tour was the most comprehensive as well.

We actually got to go into a malting room.

Saw peat being "burned".....

And was basically walked thru much of the process.

As for the tastings....well, the Missus still likes Her Laphroaig 10! And perhaps the Quarter Cask. I'm more of a Sherry Oak kind of guy and I had a taste of the 16...oh my!

Looks like some other folk like Laphroaig too!

Perhaps our favorite part of the tour were the "opinion tiles" which detail the love-hate polarizing opinions of the Laphroaig. These are at the entrance of the distillery.

It details at the bottom of the tile details what the person tasted.

My favorite one was.....

There were a group of Frenchmen....wearing kilts and all the gear on a Scotch pilgrimage! Sean went and took photos of them.

You gotta love this place!

Islay was indeed beautiful; the folks warm and welcoming. And the scenery......

But man, we were bushed. Sean dropped us off at out accommodation, the very comfortable Port Charlotte Hotel.

And after doing a bit of research before our trip; I figured that the most suitable meals for us would be in the hotel.

And it would turn out to be a good choice.

We started with 6 Loch Gruinart (local) Oysters.

My goodness; these were so good! Not overly briny; with a sweet-cucumbery aftertaste. We ended up ordering another half-dozen.

The Wild Mushroom Salad was also quite good.

Good earthy flavors; loved the addition of pine nuts added that unique, almost sweet flavor. The truffle oil dressing didn't hurt things at all either.

The Seafood Chowder was interesting; tomato based.

Really couldn't taste much other than the broth.

The Chips were ok.

A bit too dense for my liking.

The Islay Scallops were good, but not seared enough.

Really enjoyed the beets though! Very sweet and perfectly cooked.

And of course, an encore of oysters.

Port Charlotte Hotel
Main St.
Port Charlotte PA48 7TU, Scotland

After dinner we took a stroll.

Port Charlotte was like something from a postcard. 

Something that I only thought existed in movies. It was peaceful, relaxed, and we were enjoying things.

Thanks for stopping by!

Scotland (2022) - Oban Distillery and Coast Restaurant (Oban)

After starting in Edinburgh and making our way past Loch Lomond and Luss, we arrived at our destination for the evening, Oban. While I had read that Oban was quite touristy, we really enjoyed the laid back atmosphere of the town.

Of course, since we were on a private whiskey tour, the first stop was Oban Distillery.

Just to let you know how relaxed Oban was; check out the pooch sleeping belly up in the window across the busy parking lot of the distillery.

Sean guided us in and got us on our tour.

Our guide was a hoot.....with a great sense of humor. He went over the five major Scottish Regions that make Scotch Whiskey and then the Flavour Map.

And then we were off into how Oban makes their whiskey. I won't go into that detail, but you can find a good outline here. Scotch Whiskey uses copper stills. We were told that the copper binds with the sulphurs released during the fermentation process. Thus the liquid produced has a cleaner taste. We were also told during our tours that each distillery has its own design for pot stills.

As for Oban....you gotta love our guide, who photobombed me when I wanted to take a photo of the stills.

At the end we had a sampling. The Missus prefers a more peaty-smoky Scotch; the versions here had a nice bit of almost citrusy-fruitiness to it.

This was a fun first stop for us!

Oban Distillery
Stafford St
Oban PA34 5NH, Scotland, United Kingdom

After freshening up at our hotel we set out to explore a bit and then find some dinner.

Oban was a charming town and we enjoyed the views.

We saw an interesting church from the harbor and decided to walk on over to the Northern side of town past the main road to check out Saint Columba's Cathedral.

If you're interested, here's some good info on the Cathedral.

We then headed back into the city. We went thru a more residential neighborhood before getting to Dunollie Road.

Which turned into George Street where I had a place on my list named Coast Restaurant, which seemed to have the type of menu we enjoyed so we headed on over. It was exactly at opening time; 530pm so we easily got a table.

The service was warm and welcoming; typical of all the service we had in Scotland.

The Missus started with some wine. I got a Isle of Jura 10 Year Single Malt.

The menu itself was divided into two parts; the Light Bite menu, where you could even have some of the starters as mains, and the A La Carte menu. We chose items from both to make out dinner.

The Missus wanted to try the mussels, so we ordered that off the Light Bites menu as a main (£15).

I believe mentioning how amazing the seafood was in Scotland and this was no exception. Sweet, tender, not a gritty bite found anywhere. This was so good.

We also got the Crab Pot (£9.5).

Wonderfully sweet and briny crab claw meat, with a refreshing, if a bit too sweet creme fresh, we enjoyed the baby chard and arugula which helped develop a textural contrast and add earthiness to the dish.

And also the starter of "Hand Dived Scallops" - £10.95. 

So sweet, tender, perfectly rare in the center. The smoked bacon added another layer of flavor and smokiness. The tempura samphire tasted like asparagus. This was quite good...and look Black Radish, more than one scallop for almost half the price!

This was a nice dinner. We'd gladly eat here again.

Coast Restaurant
104 George St.
Oban PA34 5NT, Scotland, United Kingdom

After dinner we went for our usual stroll. 

 There's something about the pace of life here that really made one relax.

Though many places seemed to close early. Folks would pass us on the street and greet us.

We returned to our room and settled in. Tomorrow would be quite a day as we'd be taking the ferry to Islay and visit not one, but three distilleries.

Thanks for stopping by!

Scotland (2022) - The Kelpies and Lunch at The Drover Inn

We felt that we had lost so much time due to the pandemic. During our trip to Scotland, I decided that we'd do a private Scotch based tour with our own driver. Sean, our wonderful driver picked us up at exactly 9 am And we were off. We'd be spending the night in Oban, then two nights on Islay, visiting several distilleries.

But first we had to get there. Sean made a couple of stops on the way to Oban.

 The first was outside Fallkirk at a huge park between two canals. There stood two huge and magnificent sculptures of horse heads called the Kelpies. These 100 foot high metal sculptures represent mythical shape shifting creatures called Kelpies which often take the form of a horse or pony. They can also take the form of a human, often a young woman to lure young men to their "fate". More often it would be in the shape of a pony to lure children.

These statues were quite large. To the right is the Missus standing under the nostrils of "the Kelpie". Just think, what a simple booger from that nostril would do!

From here we headed to Loch Lomond considered to be the largest lake by total area in all of the UK.

We took a short break to stretch our legs and admire the picturesque village of Luss.

 

Luss is a Conservation Village and is quite charming and beautiful.

We walked thru the village and over to the pier which had many memorials on it.

I can imagine how many loved sitting and standing looking out into the Loch or over to the shore.....

We then headed back out......

Our stop for lunch was at a place in Inverarnan, said to be once be the home to outlaws and even the ghost of a small girl named the Drovers Inn.

  The Drover Inn, a "drover" is a cattle herder has been here for over 300 years. And while we stopped for lunch....well, many of the "creatures" on display would surely have enjoyed having me for their lunch.

It goes without saying that there was indeed a certain "vibe" to the place.

The pub had quite the menu of comfort dishes and I got to choose something I've always wanted to try. Folks of Scottish heritage that I know or knew would always make fun of the dish.

You basically ordered at the bar....this is very much the pub and soon enough, I got my Haggis, Neeps, and Tatties.....if you need a translation, sheep's "pluck" with oatmeal, onion, and spices, cooked in a casing. Served with "neeps" (turnips) and "tatties" (mashed potatoes). This was quite delicious, even the Missus thought so.

The offal flavor is quite mild, it's quite earthy and savory, tasting like a milder version of morcilla. I really enjoyed it.

The Missus ordered the Venison Stew which was really tough and quite bland.

    So, I guess the Haggis won out! 

There was a certain charm and sense of humor we found in Scotland that we really enjoyed. It is said that Rob Roy himself stayed here at Drovers Inn.....perhaps he enjoyed the Haggis too?

And hopefully, I'll be getting some good haggis again one day soon!

The Drovers Inn
Inverarnan North Loch Lomond, Arrochar
Loch Lomond and The Trossachs National Park G83 7DX Scotland

Edinburgh (2022) - A Walk Around the New Town and Dinner at Devil's Advocate

Our flight from Paris to Edinburgh left and arrived on time, something that is often not the norm in this day and age. We'd be spending one evening in the city before our driver would be picking us up for a private tour. We'd be staying on York Place which was quite convenient, since the last stop of the airport tram is on St Andrew Square. From there it was a short walk to our hotel.

Once we settled in....well, the Missus was ready to do a bit of exploring, so we headed out.

The really friendly folks at the hotel suggested that we take Leith Street over to Princes Street and take a walk in the New Town. 

The first thing that struck us was all the signs and "stories"....it seemed that every corner, crook, and building had one!

And there seemed to be monuments on every block.

I read that there are over 200 monuments in Edinburgh alone!

That's the statue of the Duke of Wellington below, in front of the National Archives, which was unveiled in 1852 to mark the anniversary of Wellington helping to lead the armies of the Seventh Coalition to victory over Napoleon at Waterloo.

We decided to just walk along Princes Street and the huge Princes Street Garden which was created by the draining of Nor Loch and was completed in 1820.

We could see the towering spire of the Scott Monument, the second largest monument to a writer in the world. I'm sure folks my age would have had to read one of the classics by Sir Walter Scott in school. I recall reading Ivanhoe.

It's quite amazing to see places like this....they have a way of bringing history "alive" for me.

And of course one cannot ignore all of the classic architecture, like the Jenners Building.

Which housed the Jenner Department Store, which sadly closed permanently in December 2020 partially due to the Covid lockdown. I recently read that the department store will be renovated and hopefully reopen in 2025.

The views along Princes Street of Edinburgh Castle are quite stunning.

As are those of the gardens below.

This is the Royal Scots Grey Memorial.

There was one memorial that I had on my list, so we entered the park, passing the Scottish American War Memorial.

The inscription reads:

"The Call 1914. A Tribute From Men and Women of Scottish Blood and Sympathies In the United States of America to Scotland. A People that jeoparded their lives unto the Death in the High Places of the Field."

Right pass that was the monument I wanted to see.

This is the statue of Wojtek the Bear, whose story I read years ago. In short Wojtek was purchased as a cub in Iran by soldiers of the Polish army. He was trained to transport ammunition and other supplies. Because pets were not allowed and to make sure he got rations, he was given the rank of private in the Polish army. Eventually, he was promoted to corporal!

So, why is his statue now in Edinburgh? Well, in 1945 his Company was moved to Scotland....and so was he. In the end, he lived out his years in the Edinburgh Zoo. You know I love stuff like this, right?

   Soon it was getting close to our dinner time, so I had to find the "close" where our dinner destination was located. We headed down the Mound and onto the Royal Mile and High Street. Right across St Giles' Cathedral (photo above which I'll cover in a future post), is Advocate's Close an alleyway with wonderful views. There's something somewhat dark and mysterious about these narrow streets. I'd come to learn the difference between a a Close and a Wynd during our stay in Edinburgh.

Down this narrow street is a Gastropub/Restaurant named the Devil's Advocate, which I'd made reservations at. We found the place; but then, we had to actually find the entrance....and this wasn't it.

 Folks inside waved us to the actual entrance where we were greeted by a Hostess.....people in Edinburgh and Scotland for that matter, were so very friendly....really fun and nice. We were led to a table on the upper level. Where we were seated and handed menus. The place is dark and somewhat funky....but what do you expect here! After all, who knows who walked along the path in this close? It might have been the "real" Dr Jekyl and Mr Hyde or perhaps even Burke and Hare! One's imagination can run wild!

The menu seemed kind of what I'd call "hipster - Scottish"....or perhaps more politically correct, modern gastropub fare? We placed our order and as is the way we do things, we went with mostly items off the 'Starters' and 'Sharing' portion of the menu. Like I've said many times before, these dishes seem to be the most interesting.

I'd been really wanting to try some Haggis....and really couldn't wait. So the first dish up was the Crispy Black Haggis (£8 - about $10 at time of visit).

It looks so "gastro-pubby" don't you think. It was perfectly fried, but was bland and doughy.......folks I know had always made so much of haggis, but this was so mild in flavor, I was sure that this wasn't what they were talking about, right?

Next up was the Confit Pork Belly (£9.5 - about $11.50)

So, I think it's time for a reality check here.....when we visited, with the exchange rate, this was like $11.50. Can you imagine that? The pork belly was a bit over-fried, though the interior was nice and buttery. Both the Missus and I loved the celeriac remoulade, which was crisp and refreshing.

And then came the dish that made the dinner. We ordered a "small portion" of the Smoked Fish Platter (£14 - about $17.50/US). Could you imagine getting this for less than twenty bucks?

Oh man, this was so delici-yoso.....and drove our decisions during our entire stay in Scotland. Salmon smoked two ways; I gotta say, both the hot smoked, more buttery and rich and the cold smoked, great texture and wonderful on bread have an appeal. The smoked mussels were wonderful, the perfect balance of smokiness, great , almost buttery texture, the brininess adds character. The capers and cornichons provided relief and refreshment....this was so good! 

And of course I had to have some "chips". The variety here were with truffle and parmesan ( £5 - about $6.25 on our visit).

Ok, so let's be real about this. Twice cooked, crisp on the exterior, creamy interior.........flakes of truffle......really. We loved the flavor of potatoes in Scotland; there's an inherent sweet-starchiness to it.

And our meal here was a nice start to our trip!

Devil's Advocate
9 Advocates Close
Edinburgh, Scotland

Thanks for stopping by!