Back in May, I noticed that Fung Fung Yuen had apparently changed ownership and was now something called Golden Island. Couple of weeks later, I did a online search and noticed that Golden Island took online orders. But oh my, the sticker shock....Har Gow at $6.19? Though I have to say that I recently did takeout from Jasmine; which is only about 20 cents cheaper. I went ahead and placed my takeout order online; it was accepted and I was given a time for pick-up.
I arrived precisely at my designated time and the very nice gentleman whom I believe is the manager greeted me. There was a makeshift able set-up for to-go orders....unfortunately, I had to wait an additional 20 minutes for my order...good thing I didn't have any meetings planned.
I had ordered three items; Har Gow ($6.19), Shrimp Siu Mai ($6.19), and because I thought the Missus would appreciate it; the half Roast Duck ($15.99).
The siu mai were of good size; the shrimp filling a bit on the tough side instead of a nice firmness; but the shrimp had a decent slightly sweet-savory-briny flavor....while mild; it wasn't bad at all.
The Har Gow was terrible.
First off, the wrappers were too thick and brittle. Two of the dumplings were already torn open when I opened up the container. Secondly; the shrimp were dry, tough, with some gritty bits and there was a definite muddiness to it as well.
I also got the Roast Duck.
Which wasn't too bad. I think you can tell that the skin is not quite as laquered and crisp as I enjoy. Also, if you look closely; there some feather remnants on a couple of pieces. The meat was quite tender and moist and the flavoring, while on the mild side wasn't in the same class as.....say.....Noble Chef. I took most of it home and prepped it using my toaster oven hack; but the Missus was unimpressed.
I had indended on returning, but kinda forgot about the place until "RD" mentioned (mainly about the prices) in the comments of my TJ Dumplings post. So, I decided it was time for a revisit. I again placed an order online and the same really nice guy; I think his name is Michael (??) greeted me. It seems that things were getting straightened out as I waited less than five minutes for my order this time around.
This time I got the Pork Siu Mai ($5.39), Ginger-Scallion Tripe ($5.39), and seeing Salt and Pepper Chicken Wings ($10.99) on the menu, I had to get that as well.
The tripe wasn't braised long enough and was really hard....not crunchy, but hard.
The flavoring was quite mild as well; very light hints of ginger and there's usually a mild chicken flavor to this dish as it's usually braised in chicken stock.....but that was quite mild as well.
I did not enjoy the Pork Siu Mai.
The pork was really, really hard and too chewy. There were some rather large pieces of celery in the filling, The shrimp was over-cooked and had that same muddy flavor to it...similar to the shrimp in the Har Gow I had on the previous visit.
The Salt and Pepper Chicken Wings could have been fried a bit more as it was on the mushy-greasy side.
It could have used more seasoning and I think the oil used was a bit old as there were hints of rancid oil in some of my bites. Wings had some black spotting on bones; so perhaps it had been in the freezer for a while?
Not a great meal.....
And in most cases; I would have left things at that. But the gentleman working had been really nice and I wanted to see if Golden Island could really pull off a Shrimp Siu Mai that was worth over six bucks. Plus, there was one more item on the menu that I wanted to try.
So, a week or so later I placed another online order. By this time outdoor dining was picking up and Golden Island had some al fresco tables ready for customers, along with taped marks for social distancing and lining up....which seemed a bit too close to tables if you ask me. Not that it mattered on this day since no one was eating at the time.
On this visit the timing was perfect as my order was ready to go just as I arrived.
I had ordered the Shrimp Siu Mai again, the Bean Curd Roll with Abalone Sauce ($5.39), and seeing Imperial (Empress) Chicken on the menu (aka Kwai Fei Ji) I decided to order that ($14.99).
While the prep job on the shrimp in the siu mai wasn't quite as good this time around; there some overly large chunks, the siu mai was steamed nicely as the shrimp was tender and moist, the wrapper had a bit of stretch to it and the oceany-sweetness of the shrimp could be made out.
The Bean Curd Rolls on the other hand wasn't very good.
The bean curd skin was strangely unevenly cooked; some spots mushy and falling apart; other parts too hard and brittle. The fillings had a nice crunch, but lacked flavor. The sauce was oh so bland and gloppy. I brought two of them home. After heating the Missus took one bite and told me to eat the rest.
So, how was the Kwai Fei Chicken?
I was so pleasantly surprised by this. While the skin of the chicken was a bit on the chewy side; the meat itself was tender. The chicken had been steeped/simmered nicely and just the chicken alone had good flavor, a hint of anise, a bit of a winey-ness, nice savory tones. And the best surprise was the sauce....take a look at it; full of scallion and ginger, not overly full of oil, it was perfect. Mild pungency, a hint sesame oil...….man, this was better than what my old standby, Golden City makes.
I'm glad I did that third visit. Things ended on a high note for me. Aaaaand, I have new place for Kwai Fei Chicken. Though I'm still not sold on paying Sea Harbour prices for routine Dim Sum.
For another view on things; check out Soo's post on Golden Island.
Golden Island
10660 Camino Ruiz
San Diego, CA 92126
858-578-8800
Current Hours:
Mon - Fri 10am - 9pm
Sat - Sun 930am - 9pm
Thanks for the review, was curious about the new place. Wasn't impressed by FFY and looks like the new folks aren't that great... at least for the dim sum items. With the China Max inferno, I've been going to Jasmine but like you mention it's pretty expensive.
Posted by: Jason | Thursday, 24 September 2020 at 08:36 PM
at least some things on the menu were decent...
Posted by: kat | Thursday, 24 September 2020 at 10:42 PM
I believe it's the same kitchen staff Jason. The dim sum seems a bit larger; but in terms of execution, well..... I need to do some follow-up before doing my Jasmine take-out post.
At least I got one go-to item from the menu Kat!
Posted by: Kirk | Friday, 25 September 2020 at 06:00 AM
I thought the Dim Sum at GI was really over priced. But it’s good you found something you liked.
Posted by: Som Tommy | Friday, 25 September 2020 at 10:00 AM
I think the dim sum is on the pricey side ST....but I liked the Kwai Fei Ji.
Posted by: Kirk | Friday, 25 September 2020 at 11:25 AM
Very impressed you were able to find some good items there! I could eat most anything with a good ginger scallion sauce!
Posted by: RedDevil | Friday, 25 September 2020 at 03:14 PM
Lol RD.....you weren't the only one who told me that. The sauce for the kwai fei ji was very well made.
Posted by: Kirk | Friday, 25 September 2020 at 03:51 PM
Good to know the Kwai Fei Chicken was great and the duck isn't bad. I've been going to Noble Chef for duck mostly. Thanks for the link!
Posted by: Soo | Friday, 25 September 2020 at 04:34 PM
Glad you got one good dish after 3 visits.
Posted by: Junichi | Friday, 25 September 2020 at 05:26 PM
I got some take out dim sum recently, and the har gow I got was much better than what you described. The translucent wrappers really don't hold up very well for takeout.
Posted by: Sandy | Friday, 25 September 2020 at 06:51 PM
Yes Noble Chef's duck is definitely better Soo!
I thought the guy working there was so nice Junichi. I'm glad I found a "keeper" dish.
I've had decent take-out Har Gow before Sandy - even from Hong Kong BBQ. It was the muddy flavors that really turned me off. Good to know that what you got seemed better. Perhaps I'll try it again in the future.
Posted by: Kirk | Saturday, 26 September 2020 at 08:36 AM
According to the manager Michael, the cooks are all new. In addition they will be adding a new takeout area similar to Jasmine Express. They are installing new stage and dance area for banquets. It was real bad timing the new owners bought just before Covid
Posted by: MikeW | Sunday, 27 September 2020 at 07:50 AM
Well, that makes sense Mike...it seems that things are progressing somewhat since my first visit.
Posted by: Kirk | Monday, 28 September 2020 at 05:46 AM
"...the Missus took one bite and told me to eat the rest."
That sounded familiar. Yeah, YOU eat it. Thanks for the laugh, along with a thorough review.
Posted by: alnc | Monday, 28 September 2020 at 04:32 PM
Lol! Glad to know I'm not the only one alnc!
Posted by: Kirk | Tuesday, 29 September 2020 at 05:45 AM
I was wondering how this place was now under new management but was hesitant to try with those prices. I'm glad you found a few good items.
Posted by: Kirbie | Friday, 02 October 2020 at 01:07 AM
It's still not quite up to par Kirbie - except for the Kwai Fei Chicken.
Posted by: Kirk | Saturday, 03 October 2020 at 09:13 AM