I'm thinking this post is long overdue; after all, I've been eating Hu Tieu Nam Vang ("Phnom Penh Noodles") Kho ("Dry") for ages. But just recently, I decided to try all three (not two) places in City Heights which claim Cambodian (versus Khmer) roots.
As for the roots of the dish itself; I'm more inclined to agree with folks who believe that Kuy Teav is more of a Cambodian-Chinese (Chiuchow/Teochow) hybrid that had been adopted by Vietnamese cuisine; than a purely Khmer Dish. In fact, while we ran into the very traditional Num Banh Chok when visiting Cambodia, a dish that has legendary deep roots in Cambodian folklore, there's not quite the equivalent for Kuy Teav.
Regardless, I tend to eat Hu Tieu Nam Vang Kho in the very typical way; for breakfast. And over the last couple of months, I decided to revisit these three places a mere third of a mile apart.
So, let's get started, shall we?
777 Noodle House:
777 used to be my choice for Hu Tieu Nam Vang Kho; but was eventually surpassed by Ly Heng, but on my last visit, things were looking up.
So, what would it be this time around?
The bean sprouts were nicely blanched; the only place that did this during this rotation. The noodles were nicely cooked; though the sauce for the noodles were the mildest of the three. This bowl also had the least and cheapest toppings. The accompanying soup was good, not too salty. I shocked at what was the usual shank with meat as it looked fairly skimpy. It was however, almost all, very tender, very porky meat, and just a sliver of bone!
In terms of price; this was in the middle of the three bowls. If you'd like to know more about the original owners of 777 and enjoy a blast from the past, you can check this out from almost seven years ago to the day it was published.
The place is looking a bit worn; though it's basically the same folks who have been working the front of house from when I first visited back in 2010.
777 Noodle House
4686 University Avenue
San Diego, CA 92105
Ly Heng:
Next up; Ly Heng, which I first visited when they opened in 2014. Over time; I thought that Ly Heng had over taken 777 with regards to the Hu Tieu Nam Vang Kho.
I was a bit surprised with what arrived. It was the most interesting presentation and also the cheapest ($6).
The soup had a nice sized bone in it with a decent amount of tender, flavorful, meat. As usual; it edged on the salty side, and was perhaps the least favorite of the three.
Check out that presentation; in a shallow bowl, with everything on lettuce (?) which wilted. The chicken served with this was dry, the liver tasted not-so-fresh, the noodles were over-cooked. The bean sprouts weren't blanched as well.
Hmmmm…..
The young lady who waited on me was wonderful and Ly Heng was the most modern and busiest of the three places. It was strange as everyone; all five other tables seemed to finish at the same time and leave within minutes of each other.
Ly Heng
4451 University Ave
San Diego, CA 92105
Trieu Chau:
Talk about a blast from the past. Yes, that post is from 2006! Actually, I did revisit after our Cambodia trip. Let's just say I didn't "handle" the food well and leave it at that. Usually, I'd never return to, or ever post about somewhere when that occurs. But heck, it's 2019, right?
And while the restaurant looks basically the same outside; I think the interior looks a bit better.
Though there are some interesting touches....like did you ever wonder what happened to Mandarin Garden's (another blast from the past) chopsticks after they closed? Well, look no further.
The version here was the most expensive; like eight bucks, but it also had the most meat.
And while there was a pittance of unblanched bean sprouts and the bone in the soup was just that....no false advertising here, it was almost all bone, with some really tough meat and connective tissue, I think the broth was the best, as it actually had some nice porkiness to it.
The noodles were a bit over-cooked, but the sauce used for the noodles were also quite good, if a bit salty (the lime helps with this); it did help that there was a good amount of what looked like seasoned-sautéed garlic as well. The shrimp was large, moist and plump. The rest of the meats were fine as well. So if you prefer more meat with your Kuy Teav, this is the place to hit up.
Trieu Chau Restaurant
4653 University Ave
San Diego, CA 92105
So who was the winner? Well, me of course as I got to enjoy three decent versions of Hu Tieu Nam Vang Kho, all for less than most of us pay for a sandwich! Though I will say that the version at Ly Heng has slipped (though it's only $6) and I was pleasantly surprised by Trieu Chau.
These noodle soups are so inexpensive that you should probably check them out if you're in the neighborhood.
nice comparisons.
Posted by: kat | Monday, 12 August 2019 at 11:57 PM
Thanks Kat!
Posted by: Kirk | Tuesday, 13 August 2019 at 06:49 AM
The Reader article was a great one! Is there a restaurant with dishes like Mandarin Garden? I liked that place.
Posted by: Soo | Tuesday, 13 August 2019 at 08:51 AM
Hi Soo - Man, a menu like Mandarin Garden? Without the Su Cai/Shanghainese style food? Maybe Yenchim, if they are still around. Chin's used to serve some of that stuff....some folks told me Chun's also serves that style of food; but I've heard some not so good reviews form my friends.
Posted by: Kirk | Tuesday, 13 August 2019 at 09:17 AM
Wow Mandarin Garden. Used to go there growing up. I was so sad when it sold. If you combine the best parts of each bowl you'll have a winner!
Posted by: Junichi | Tuesday, 13 August 2019 at 09:33 AM
Mandarin Garden; quite a blast from the past Junichi! Those chopsticks really got my attention. You're right; combine components of each bowl and I'd have a definite favorite!
Posted by: Kirk | Tuesday, 13 August 2019 at 09:41 AM
Great post!
Posted by: RedDevil | Tuesday, 13 August 2019 at 10:08 AM
Thanks RD!
Posted by: Kirk | Tuesday, 13 August 2019 at 11:54 AM
That's pretty funny that Mandarin Garden chopsticks ended up at Trieu Chau! Many, many many years ago, Mandarin Garden was more of your typical Cantonese restaurants. Somewhere along the way, they added dishes from other Chinese regions.
Posted by: Sandy | Tuesday, 13 August 2019 at 01:12 PM
That might be before my time in San Diego Sandy. Those chopsticks really did get my attention though.....funny what things we run in to.
Posted by: Kirk | Tuesday, 13 August 2019 at 02:38 PM