The Latin Chef, Now in the Liberty Public Market

After eating at Steak n Fries in PB, instead of heading right over to Grand to get out of PB, I drove up Garnet. I was shocked to see that Latin Chef had closed. Yes, they had really slipped over the years, especially after the original chef left and headed back to Cusco. But the place had sentimental value to me. Much like Sultan had inspired us to travel to Turkey; Latin Chef got us to head to Peru. I'd always enjoyed Peruvian food; the ever changing amalgamation of the cuisines of those who set foot upon its shores. It seems that Peru embraces the dishes and aims to do it "right". And while places like Maido might not do everything to our taste; I appreciate the honest, sincere combination of Nikkei-Tusan-Amazonian tastes and textures. So yes, I was sad to see Latin Chef close; even though it seemed like the writing had been on the wall for a while.

I was just as shocked upon walking through the Liberty Public Market on our way to El Jardin a few days later to see a sign up for "The Latin Chef"! Could it be? Anyway, I waited until that weekend to check them out. Located where I believe Meze Greek Fusion used to be, Latin Chef has assumed the small kitchen and counter.

I sidled up to the counter; there are two tables also available, and was handed a menu by the nice woman working. She introduced herself as the Chef's wife. I was suddenly full of questions, but just asked one.....and she confirmed, Fredy was no longer associated with Latin Chef, she and her husband, a Nikkei from Peru were now in charge.

The menu was chock full of Peruvian standards, Lomo Saltado, Chaufa, Tallarin, and so forth.

Of course the first thing on my mind was some Cebiche Pescado; but I noticed they used Swai. In spite of the various concerns about Swai (I'd eat it before Escolar); I just find most preparations; perhaps fried is the best, turns out mushy. So; I went with the Leche de Tigre instead to see how the fish was prepared.

And as you can see; some Chicha Morada, which was decent...not too sweet, cinnamon tones. Loved the good amount of chanchita; the nutty-earthy tones really match well with the sour lime. The leche de tigre was super bracing and sour; it was lime heavy. I'd grown used to some balance with the addition of more savory and pungent components. And no, I didn't expect the "nuevo style" Leche de Tigre dishes we had in Lima during our last visit. The shrimp was cooked by the book, plainly boiled like for a typical shrimp cocktail and the fish, small pieces were kind of mushy and flaky.

I also got the Anticuchos Corazon, the classic grilled beef heart dish of Peru.

This was also done pretty much by-the-book, achiote-cumin-salt. Luckily they gave me a nice little container of aji rocoto, which added some nice zip. While I wasn't expecting, say anything on the level of Panchita's; this version was tad too tough...I'm used the toothsome-chewiness, which I find rather pleasant; but perhaps just slicing things a bit thinner like like the former Latin Chef and Nazca Grill used to do. it also could have done with more aji and some good acid.

Again, I was thankful for the aji rocoto as it added some nice zip to things.

So, with that under my belt, I decided to head back the next weekend.

And, of course I ordered the Lomo Saltado.

While this was better than what I last had at Pisco; it lacked enough acidity from tomatoes and pungency from onions and just had way too much potatoes. The sauce was bit oily and it edged on being too salty. The meat, was toothsome but not tough. The rice was fine; but this was nothing like the balance that Latin Chef had at its peak.

After being served; the chef came out to chat. His name is Tony Kaneshiro and he is a full blown Nikkei from Peru. We talked about the food; he hasn't been back to Peru in ages and goes for basic, straight forward Peruvian food. In a very interesting coincidence, he told me he used to cook at El Rocoto in the mid-90's, which would be about the time we used to go there often! Small world.

The Peruvian stylings at this version of Latin Chef is quite straight forward. I found it to be somewhat inconsistent but will check back in a few months to see. I'm happy to see the legacy of Latin Chef being carried on, by two really nice folks. I hope they do well.

The Latin Chef (In Liberty Public Market)
2820 Historic Decatur Rd.
San Diego, CA 92106
Hours:
Mon - Sat 11am - 8pm
Sunday    11am - 7pm

Comments

[kat]

hope they will get better

[Kirk]

I hope so too Kat!

[Junichi]

My first taste of Peruvian food was El Dorado in Chula Vista waaay back in the day. I think it's now a Mexican joint.

[Soo]

That's good the Lomo Saltado isn't bad.

[Kirk]

It sure is Junichi! Here's my visit back in the day:

https://mmm-yoso.typepad.com/mmmyoso/2006/01/el_dorado_mexic.html

Not too bad Soo....but lots of room for improvement.

[Derek R]

The chef/food sounds promising. Lomo Salado has been on my "to try" list for awhile.

[Kirk]

Hi Derek - The Lomo Saltado here was ok, but not great. If you've never had it before; give it a shot.

[nhbilly]

What I'd for some good Peruvian grub.

[Kirk]

Hopefully you can get some the next time you visit the OC Billy! Hope all is well!

[delmy betancourt]

The Latin Chef and liberty station is the best Peruvian food in San Diego. You need to come and taste.

[Kirk]

Hi Delmy - I'll circle back soon and see if the food has improved. Once upon a time Latin Chef did indeed have the best Peruvian Food in San Diego. You can those posts from waaaay back in 2007 - 1012. Here's a sample:

https://mmm-yoso.typepad.com/mmmyoso/2007/06/do-you-ever-go-.html