We'd had such a great time in Emiligia-Romagna, from the Castles, to the "Devil's Bridge", to our amazing food tour, there were so many memorable experiences. And even though we had but two more nights left in the region, I had one more ace up my sleeve. Our Airbnb was very inexpensive, so I decided to book an overnight stay in Ravenna, a short hour train ride from Bologna. I'd read a bit about the city, which was once the capital of Western Roman Empire. When Theodosius I died; he split the Roman Empire into to halves, one of his sons, Honorius and he moved the Imperial Court and Administrative offices there in 401 because it was easily defended.
Well, enough of the history lesson, no?
The train station in Ravenna is but a short walk into the heart of the city. The vibe is relaxed and friendly; the city is pedestrian friendly and there's obviously a lot going as we passed this while walking past one of the many piazzas on the way to our hotel.
Our hotel; the Casa Masoli was close to everything we wanted to see; the woman running the place was warm and friendly and even made dinner reservations for us at a place she highly recommended. The prices were quite affordable; we got the Teodora e Giustiniano Suite for like a hundred Euros. The building has long history and our suite was amazing! And quite unique; it's like we entered a time machine and travelled into the past. From the Venetian four post beds and antiques lining the room....
To the huge bathroom with a marble bath tub!
To the rather dramatic sitting area.
The woman pointed to a part of the high ceiling and told us...."this is where a bomb landed during World War I"!
We had also arrived early and expected to drop off our bags; but our room was ready!
And so were we. The first order of business was head on out to the bookstore located at Via Giuliano Argentario 22 and purchase a combined ticket for five of the sites. And, it right down the street from our first site; the Basilica of San Vitale.
Commissioned by Bishop Ecclesius in 527; the church was still unfinished when Ravenna fell to Justinian I in 1540. It was then that the mosaics were done and the church completed in 1547. From the exterior, the building really looks rather staid and simple, but the octagonal plan and the use of terra-cotta bricks was revolutionary in those times.
It's upon entering the interior where you really understand the importance of this structure......
The amazing Byzantine Mosiacs are second to none and just amazing to see. It is rumored that San Vitale was used as the model for the Hagia Sofia in Istanbul. And even though we've been to the Hagia Sofia, twice this really made an impression on us.
It is undoubtedly, one of the most beautiful places I've ever visited.
I'm wondering what the dome would have been like had the intended mosaic design been carried out. The painting on the dome is from the 18th century.
I mean, the mosaic on the ceiling of the presbytery is dramatic enough.
There's actually a tape that goes "ssshhhssshhh" when folks start talking too loud in the place. We actually loved it!
For a wonderful article on the history and mosaics, check out this site.
Across the courtyard is the Mausoleum of Galla Placidia, named after the daughter of Theodosius I. There are three sarcophagi in the structure; it is said that these are of Galla Placidia, who is said to have been placed in sitting position, Galla's son, Valentinian III is to her right, and to her left is that of Emporer Constantius III, her husband. Though because of study and dating, it is no longer thought to be so.
Some say the mosaics here outshine those in the Basilica and I can see why.
It was an amazing visit; something I wish everyone could see.
From here we headed to the next thing I wanted to see. While on one of the many wonderful pedestrian side streets, we decided to stop for lunch here.
It was a quaint shop; the upstairs was a dining area and the bottom floor like a very comfortable café.
the main reason we stopped is because the place served a small menu for lunch that featured Piadine. We'd been wanting to try an Italian version since having on Malta and I knew that this flatbread is traditionally from this region.
The Missus thoroughly enjoyed her Verdure Gratinate Squacquerone (a nice lightly acidic fresh cheese) - basically roasted vegetables in a nice, warm flatbread.
I had the Prosciutto (of course) Arugula Squacquerone version. Which was just enough for a light lunch.
This, along with two espressos was perfect since we still had a bunch of places to visit and didn't want to get filled up. It was also a nice change from all of the rather hearty food we'd been having over the last couple of days.
Nicely priced as well.
Al Cairoli
Via Benedetto Cairoli 16
48121, Ravenna, Italy
We headed straight down the street. Past all of the locals chatting, having espresso, eating lunch......
Via Benedetto Cairoli had become Via Corrado Ricci and we had arrived at this piazza. This is the Piazza San Francesco.
We'd gone a street too far. We would return here to visit the Basilica di San Francesco later on....there's something really cool in the church. But for now, I was focused on this place right around the corner in an area called "Zona del Silenzio" (Area of Silence). Remember when we visited the Basilica di Santa Croce in Florence? I noted that Dante's tomb "monument" was located in the church, but he wasn't interred there? Well, here he is.
On January 27th 1302, Dante was exiled from his home in Florence. He ended up in Ravenna in 1318 and wrote Paradiso, the third and last part of his Divine Comedy. When Dante died in 1321, he was entombed and hidden in what is now named the Basilica di San Francesco not to be found until 1865. Thus began what some say is a 700 year "battle" over the remains of Dante, which is quite a story in itself.
So many stories...….
And it was barely past noon!
Yes, there's more to come.
Thanks for stopping by!
Lovely mosiacs!
Posted by: Soo | Sunday, 24 March 2019 at 09:07 AM
what a beautiful mosaic ceiling!
Posted by: kat | Monday, 25 March 2019 at 01:15 AM
It was very beautiful Soo!
Stunning Kat!
Posted by: Kirk | Monday, 25 March 2019 at 01:14 PM
Love to see those mosaics in person one of these days.
Posted by: Junichi | Tuesday, 26 March 2019 at 11:16 AM
I hope you get a chance to Junichi! Prices in Emilia-Romagna are very reasonable.
Posted by: Kirk | Tuesday, 26 March 2019 at 01:45 PM