During our last full day in Paris, we made no plans, "réservations pour le dîner, oui", but really had no real plans other than that.
So, during our breakfast at the Hotel Monge, we came up with our plans for the morning.
Well, at least a place to start. We headed down Rue Monge, one block later we headed west on Rue Lacépède, then turning down Rue Mouffetard. Several blocks down starts the really well known part of Rue Mouffetard, known as Marché Mouffetard, the street that Hemingway dubbed as "A Moveable Feast".
Things were quiet on this morning.
It was still too early in the morning it seems. So when we got to the Paroisse Saint Medard, we decided to head back up to Place Monge. We'd return to Rue Mouffetard the next morning.
At Place Monge; we noticed that it was market day.
The entire square was taken over with booths selling prepared food, produce, meat, and of course fromage.
We always enjoy these markets, as we get to watch everyday life.
And having been to a couple of places in France, we had to smile at places that jogged our memory.
Remember the "Route du foie gras"?
And having just returned from Strasbourg, I just had to crack up when I saw this.....
I recalled how the Missus could not pass up that choucroute garnie?
I did ask the Missus if She wanted some; but She wistfully told me; "I'm still full and it's too early in the morning". so perhaps we'll have to head back to Alsace one of these days.
From here we headed up Rue Monge.
Crossed over the Seine on Boulevard du Palais.
This was the busy 1st Arrondissement. There's a lot going on here; the Louvre, the Jardine de Tuileries, Jardin du Palais Royal, it's all here.
That's the Fontaine du Palmier on Place du Châtelet, like may things in Paris, it has quite a story.
The Tour Saint-Jacques (Saint-Jacques Tower), once part of Church of Saint-Jacques-de-la-Boucherie ("Saint James of the butchers"), which was demolished in 1793. All that remains is the tower.
The tower indicated that we were getting close to our next destination.
Once we came across Les Halles, which used to be the central market and has a great long history. It was demolished in 1971 and replaced with the Les Halles Forum a shopping mall.
A short turn right and you're on Rue Montorgueil; one of the most well known Market Street....as like we were often told; is "très différent du marché de rue"....the difference between a "street market" and a "market street".
There are businesses, like La Maison Stohrer to the right; established in 1730, that claims to have invented Rum Baba.
There's an interesting mix of tourists.....
And locals......
It's a wonderful miasma of sights, sounds, and smells.
I'd been told by some folks that people in Paris were quite rude. And while we had run into a few folks who basically didn't want anything to do with tourists......there were so many wonderful folks like the nice woman who saw us staring at the Rue Montorgueil sign and came up to us and asked, "Monsieur, Madame, are you lost, do you need some help?" We never forget these moments as it makes us better human beings. We are all more alike then we are different. It is much harder to be cruel and cold than it is to be kind.
We had done our exploring for the day and decided to head back to the hotel. We knew that lunch really wasn't in the cards. The Missus decided that perhaps we should continue our "croissant quest" on Rue Monge.
Maison Gregoire was a block away from our hotel. Of course we got the croissant "au buerre" (croissants made with butter, not margarine).
This one was a little light in the butter side of things and on the dry side. In terms of flakiness and lightness it hit the mark.
Maison Grégoire
69 rue Monge
75005 Paris, France
Catty corner from Maison Grégoire is another Artisan Boulangerie.
Same drill...except when I removed the croissant from the package....good lord!
Burnt, bitter,....incinerated. Dry as all heck. The lady in the bakery seemed detached and it seems that she just didn't care. This was horrible.
Boulangerie Teillet Philippe
66 rue Monge
75005 Paris, France
Our quest for a favorite croissant continues...….
This was a wonderful post - thanks for sharing Kirk. Definitely need to make it to France one of these days.
Posted by: Derek R | Saturday, 20 October 2018 at 10:23 PM
You brought some nice memories from our trip to Paris. We stayed in a flat on Rue Monterueil and it was fantastic. Everything we needed was on the street and virtually no cars. Thanks!
Posted by: Kenneth Bonus | Sunday, 21 October 2018 at 07:08 AM
Good look on your croissant quest! You should go on one in San Diego. I like the looks of the outdoor market.
Posted by: Soo | Sunday, 21 October 2018 at 08:26 AM
I hope you get a chance soon Derek!
Rue Montorgueil is a really fun locale Kenneth. I'm sure you had a wonderful time.
We have never found a croissant we enjoy in SD Soo.....maybe one of these days.
Posted by: Kirk | Sunday, 21 October 2018 at 12:26 PM
what a great post! thanks for sharing.
Posted by: kat | Sunday, 21 October 2018 at 04:28 PM
We had a lovely time Kat!
Posted by: Kirk | Monday, 22 October 2018 at 06:48 AM
Wonderful post. Too bad about the second croissant.
Posted by: Junichi | Monday, 22 October 2018 at 12:00 PM
OMG, what a croissant! I so enjoy hotel breakfast buffets; different everywhere...and this one decorated with pine cones and stems. What a delightful time you had.
Posted by: Cathy | Monday, 22 October 2018 at 12:34 PM
Hi Junichi - That "Artisan Boulangerie" should be embarrassed to be selling that. There's always something going on in Paris.
The Hotel Monge serves up a pretty nice breakfast Cathy.
Posted by: Kirk | Monday, 22 October 2018 at 12:41 PM