Ethiopian Twice in Phoenix: Gojo and Abyssinia

Ed and Tina recently got back from their summer vacation, so today, Ed (from Yuma) wants to share a couple meals they had in Phoenix. Tomorrow, it’ll be Kirk or Cathy writing.

Instead of flying out of Yuma and spending an entire day in airports and on airplanes on the way to Oregon, we opted to drive to Phoenix, spend the night, and fly out the next day. At the end of our vacation, we did the reverse. Both times we wanted to find good places to eat dinner close to the Phoenix airport. As it turned out, the small Ethiopian community in Phoenix was nearby, and we decided to have our first vacation dinner at Gojo:

We were greeted by a warm and friendly hostess. Ethiopian music was playing in the background, and one corner of the well-lit restaurant displayed reminders of Ethiopia:

It seemed like a neighborly local place and many of the customers knew each other and the hostess:

We started off with ice water and tasty homemade lemonade:

We ordered a meat combo platter as well as a veggie combo, which showed up first:

At the 6 o’clock position, closest to the viewer, were excellent collards that had a touch of bitterness and a touch of tang. Really good. In the middle were spicy split red lentils. Excellent fiery flavor. The cabbage had a hint of sweetness and was perfectly cooked. Both the whole lentils and the green beans and carrot were mild but had nice textures. The light brown purée on the right puzzled me at first because it had the smooth creamy texture of shiro (ground chickpeas) but with a more assertive flavor than I was used to. Our server explained that yes, indeed, it was shiro but flavored with berbere (hot Ethiopian chili spice blend). Only the yellow split peas were disappointing – thick and flavorless. The injera was soft and thin with a touch of sourdough flavor.

The meat combo had three items:

The beef, closest to the viewer, had a nice complex flavor and a restrained amount of heat, though a couple of the chunks were still a little chewy. The lamb (back left) and the chicken were much spicier and more picante with a pronounced berbere taste. The lamb had sliced onions and was very tender. The chicken had some large chunks and smaller flakes of meat throughout the sauce.

Tina and I were both extremely pleased with the meal. The items were distinctly flavored and the spiciness ranged from mild to hot. The bill was reasonable:

Gojo, 3015 E Thomas Rd, Phoenix, AZ 85016, (602) 840-3411

 

When we returned to Phoenix after 10 days in Oregon, we just had to try another Ethiopian place, Abyssinia:

Another clean well-lighted space with minimal décor and ambience, pleasant Ethiopian music and a warm and welcoming host. When he came to take our order, I was suggesting that we would have a combination veggie plate and a combination meat plate. “Oh that’s too much food for two people,” he said, “you should order the agelgel. It has three meats and four vegetables. It’s enough and you will like.”

He was right; there was easily enough food and we liked it:

The injera was very similar in style to Gojo and tasty. The yellow split peas here were an improvement, being more flavorful and creamier. The cabbage and carrots and whole lentils were fine, and again, the collards were outstanding, flavorful and perfectly cooked. The lamb, in the middle of the injera, was nicely spicy though not quite as fiery as the lamb at Gojo. The beef (at about 1 o’clock) was mild but flavorful and very tender.

Our favorite was the item closest to the camera – yawaze yebere tibs. More like a stirfry than most Ethiopian meat dishes, the jalapenos, onion slices, and beef chunks were perfect together and offered a very different spice profile from the other dishes.

I forgot to take a picture of the bill, but the agelgel was $19.95, and we just drank water, so another reasonably priced dinner.

What seems strange to me is that we had two excellent Ethiopian meals in Phoenix, really better imho than what’s available in SD. Yet I cannot recall ever reading anything in Chowhound (back when I read Chowhound) or in any other food site that mentioned the existence of Ethiopian food in the city. Sometimes I think the Phoenix food  writing is too focused on fancy high-end stuff and misses places like Gojo, Abyssinia, or even Pho 43. {my apologies to Phoenix New Times, which did a piece on Abyssina,}

 

Abyssinia, 842 E Indian School Rd, Phoenix, AZ 85014, (602) 795-4113

Comments

[Cathy]

Very smart to have good meals at local places in Phoenix; chains are easy but not remarkable. Both of these meals look so refreshing. Thanks for the explanations of the various ingredients, this will help- I saw a place up north that we might be trying soon.

[Ed (from Yuma)]

Thanks, Cathy. The problem with Ethiopian food is it generally looks alike. Differences are in spicing, taste, preparation, and injera, which are hard to see in photos.

[caninecologne]

Your meals looked so good Ed - I generally like the vegetable combo because there are so many choices. Sadly, one of my favorite Ethiopian places in San Diego, Harar, has kind of gone downhill. At a recent visit, there was no harissa sauce (or any other kind) offered and the flavors of the fo seemed to have been gringofied. It was a pretty bland meal which is surprising for Ethiopian food.

[ed fromyuma]

Ive noticed that with others in SD. Our last meal at Awash had really poor doro wat. Maybe 5 years down the road these newer places in PHX will gringofy as well.

[Gypsy Jan]

Hi KirkK, can't email you because I don't have Microsoft Outlook. I just nominated your blog for an award in Saeur;s "Best blog" contest. Best wishes, Gypsy Jan.

[Gypsy Jan]

Oops again! Sorry Ed and Tina for intruding on your report. I hope KirkK will get the message, my apologies. GJ

[Kirk]

No problem Jan - Thanks so much! It's really nice to hear from you. Hope all is well.