Kokoro Omakase for Two

Ed (from Yuma) shares a fancy omakase dinner with Tina – and now with you, dear reader. Tomorrow Kirk or Cathy will share something different.

It was a dark and stormy night, after a dark and stormy drive over to San Diego, so Tina and I were happy to walk into the clean well lighted space that is Kokoro (website). We'd made an early reservation so Ishito-san had no other customers at the bar when we arrived:

Both Kirk and I have posted about omakase experiences here, so Tina and I wanted the top-of-the-line omakase and ordered it three days in advance. 

The meal started with a simple looking mushroom appetizer – enoki and sliced oyster mushrooms in beautiful little bowls:

That pic doesn’t show much food, but the shrooms were lightly sauced and had an earthy/woodsy flavor. Nice modest beginning.

Then bowls showed up with a large oyster cut into three pieces, flanked by little pieces of dark seaweed, and topped with a blast of ginger:

The concentrated flavor of the ocean.

About this time I ordered 6 oz Kikusui sake:

It was cold, smooth, and altogether pleasant.

Our sashimi plate was a thing of beauty:

The maguro was exceptional and deeply flavored. The uni was good, of course, and the tako had a nice balance between flavor and chewiness. Even the scallop, which was pretty bland really, tasted fresh and tender. I should add that the wasabi was quality as well, hot spicy with bits of real wasabi throughout.

Here's another view of the plate:

Ishito-san was proud of the white fish selection. "Five different fish, all different flavor and texture." The hamachi was what you'd expect, fresh tasting, firm, and rich. The hirame (right behind the octopus) had firmer texture and deeper richer flavor than expected. I'm pretty sure that the slices were endawa, dorsal fin muscle, which I have not had since Wal Mi Do closed. Both Tina and I enjoyed the range of flavors, textures, and richness among the five.

The last item on the platter was maybe the most amazing of all:

I have never had or seen two toned tuna before. And yeah, real good and real rich.

It was time for a change of pace, so we were pleased to see a small covered bowl set in front of each of us:

Inside was a deceptively simple looking clear broth soup:

The cube was a piece of crab and seafood cake, mild and tender. The green herb was very strong flavored and contrasted nicely with the cake. But the key to the whole dish is the thin golden brown oval on the bottom of the bowl – a slice of bottarga – salted, cured, pressed, and aged mullet caviar. When you bite into it, it dissolves into a myriad of minuscule fish eggs.

The next course was one of our favorites, a complex autumn/winter stew that seemed perfect for a rainy evening:

The two main ingredients were pieces of crunchy fried fish and thick succulent tender slices of beautifully braised daikon. They were accompanied by gobo root matchsticks, fried slices of lotus root, a couple of candlenuts, and a few salmon eggs. The flavors, textures, and colors of the stew made this a big winner for both of us.

At this time, our hashi were replaced with new ones. “Why?” crossed my mind briefly, and then an amazing beef salad was set before us:

The steak was exceptionally tender, deeply flavored, and rich. The greens with their fresh and sometimes bitter flavors provided contrast. And the yuzu based steak sauce/salad dressing went with both, its tang balancing the rich meat. "That's wagyu beef from Japan,” Ishito san said, “Grade A5, the best." We believed him. It was good.

Then Tina and I each got a couple slices of fried monkfish accompanied by ponzu:

Okay, but not especially memorable.

The sushi course was the last savory part of the meal. It looked pretty ordinary:

However, it was quite good. The anago was sprinkled with coarse salt and was fresh and meaty tasting. The saba had been lightly cured so we could taste real mackerel flavor. The unusually large ebi, never a favorite sushi of mine, was wonderful here. We were told to use no shoyu, which seemed odd, but the shrimp were so fresh, meaty, and sweet that Ishito san wanted nothing to mask that taste.

The meal concluded with a choice of Italian style ice creams or sorbet. Tina loved her raisin and vanilla bean ice cream:

And I was blown away by the green apple sorbet:

Overall a great meal.

Kokoro, 3298 Greyling Dr. Ste. B, San Diego, CA 92123, (858) 565-4113

Comments

[Kirk]

Hey Ed - Where was the uni from? It doesn't look like San Diego Uni. Nice selection.

[Ed (from Yuma)]

I didnn't ask, but I thought it was Socal. There was so much else going on that I didn't focus much on the uni; I thought it tasted pretty standard.

[jack]

Great looking meal Ed. I think I need some sushi this weekend.

[Ed (from Yuma)]

It was a great meal, Jack. I feel the same way when I see pics of good looking sushi.