Dordogne - Hitting the Road, Cadouin, and Dinner at Criquettamu's

While researching our trip it became obvious that we'd need a car to make the most of our trips in and around the Dordogne River Valley. Since this wasn't some crazy big city I decided to rent a car for a couple of days.

I'd made arrangements for a rental to be picked at the local Europcar office in Sarlat. The process was painless, the folks there quite friendly. As I mentioned when I drove around Crete, almost every car I've seen is a "stick". So I'm glad to have learned to drive in my friend's 70 'Cuda, which had probably the hardest clutch I've ever had to use. When on these trips, I think it best to get the smallest, easiest to hande, gas efficient, car you can get. We had a small Peugeot. I also requested a GPS, which was provided. There was one little glitch.....it was in French! So what better way to learn a few words in French, than with your GPS commanding you, "Le Gauche.....La Droite....Sortie...." It was almost like a song...."le gauche, la droite, sortie....le gauche, la droite, sortie". Basically, to the left, to the right, exit. But of course it sounds much better in French....repeat after me; "le gauche, la droite, sortie....."

One other thing that threw me off a bit were all the roundabouts....where you gotta know when it's your turn and then make that quick decision of which exit (Sortie) is yours. There were a few times where we took a lap or two in a roundabout.

As a whole folks were pretty relaxed out here; there's no freeway, so no one is blasting it down the road. Once I saw an ambulance approach from the back, lights flashing. I just crept over the right. The guys actually smiled and waved at us as they passed!

The payoff was being able to see some of the beautiful countryside. It was like being part of an ever moving painting at times.

I was just trying to get used to driving in the area, so we had no particular place in mind and ended up at this impressive, yet haunting looking church.

Looking at our map we had arrived at Cadouin Abbey, founded in 1115, the church was consecrated in 1154.

Cadouin was once an important pilgrimage destination; to quote "The Abbey became a major pilgrim destination in the Middle Ages because of a piece of cloth thought to be part of the shroud of Jesus Christ. Pilgrims visiting the shroud included Richard the Lionheart and Eleanor of Aquitaine. In the 1930s the cloth was shown to date from the 12th century and the abbey immediately lost its role as a pilgrimage destination"

The Missus, while reading the Michelin Green Guide found that in 1934 two scholars found that the embroidered bands mentioned an emir and caliph who rules Egypt in the 11th and 12th century. Man, you can't make this kind of stuff up, can you? It kind of looks like the figure to the right has his finger in the air saying, "but wait a minute!!!!"

There was just so much to see, like this quaint little church. This town wasn't even on our map. The GPS said it was Saint-Avit-Rivière. The Wikipedia page says the "Commune" has a population of 80.

The façade of this church was quite charming.

A few minutes later we passed through a fairy tale like forest; the trees swaying gently above us.

And ended up outside the walls of a town named Monpazier, a well known "Bastide" (fortified) town. The town was founded in 1284 by Edward I of England, basically to command and control the roads and commerce in the area. The Porte Saint Jacques was our entrance to this historic town.

We took a different route back to Sarlat; but it was no less beautiful.

The biggest challenge with the car for me wasn't the driving, it was finding some parking once we got back to Sarlat. I finally found a spot 5 blocks away from where we were staying.

We walked on over to the restaurant the fellow in the TI recommended to us, by the name of Criquettamu's. It was a nice place, with small out door seating along the alleyway and a decent sized dining room.

It was a good thing we had made reservations; the place filled up quickly. The menu was "interesting" as it featured some truly French styled dishes, but also some rather strange "International" dishes. The couples on the tables on both sides of us; who spoke French, both ordered "sushi".....which looked quite bad. It really made me worried about what we had ordered. I needed some wine to calm me down.

This was quite a full bodied wine, with some tannic tones, a nice stone fruit flavor.

When our starter arrived, my doubts about this place increased a bit more. The trilogy of foie gras mi cuit was a bit of a disappointment.

All three were quite dry, almost crumbly. The version poached in red wine tasted a bit off; the best of the lot was the standard foie gras, which was still much too dry for my taste and lacking in flavor. The version stuffed with figs had a strong livery flavor. By far the most disappointing foie gras we had the entire trip.

Just as I ready to write this place off, my Duck Breast with Seared Foie Gras and Morel Mushroom Sauce arrived.

I don't even remember the potatoes, nor the salad; but that nice, rare duck breast, and melt in your mouth, rich foie gras, topped with a sauce with the earth nutty morels, brought together with a touch of sweetness, this was very nice. The portion size was on the large size and at 24€ (about $28 at the time), this was a bargain.

The Missus's dish was good, though not spectacular. Instead of the usual Duck Confit; She went with the Goose Confit (18€).

While I thought the skin of the goose could have been a bit more crisp; man was this rich and fatty. The texture of the meat was so velvety and rich, it basically melted in your mouth. I actually thought the flavor was milder than duck.

Overall, we thought the service, while on the slow side was quite nice. We chuckled at the presentation of the food as it looked a bit dated. We enjoyed our entrees, but that foie gras was probably the least favorite version(s) we had on our trip.

Criquettamu's
5 rue Armes
Sarlat-la-Caneda, France

After dinner, we took a final lap around Sarlat-la-Caneda. Come morning we'd be moving on.

The town just seemed to have so much charm and character; we were sorry to be leaving the next morning. But we had a tight schedule to keep.

Thanks for reading!

Comments

[Lynnea]

that fairy forest! =D so magical!

[Ed (from Yuma)]

Great post. Loved the 12th c. churches. Interesting, the exterior romanesque arches at the abbey are completely rounded, but the interior arches and the ones on the bizarre church are ever so subtly pointed.

[Kirk]

It as Lynnea.

Hi Ed - What was really interesting for us with regards to the churches in the area is that the façade is usually dated, but the building behind the façade might be newer or built during different period.

[Ed (from Yuma)]

Yes, you can see the discontinuity, especially at Saint Avit Riviere. The facade has no stylistic relation at all. Very interesting things.

The pointy arches are just interesting because they are barely pointed at all - the earliest hints of Gothic.

[kat]

what a great adventure!

[Kirk]

We really did enjoy driving around Kat!