I guess this post was inevitable. Back in 2012, I did a series of posts comparing Yakyudori to Koubou. It was pretty much no contest. Now, over two years later, there's Yakitori Taisho. In spite of my impressions eating there, I just had to see. Which would I prefer, Yakyudori or Taisho. In spite of having the same owner, the two places are quite different. Taisho is rather quiet and sedate, if you have reservations, you'll have it basically for the whole night until you leave....Yakyudori is an elbow to elbow zoo, which starts serving yakitori at 530pm. They also do ramen an lunch.
That said, it's all protein on a stick, right? Not so as I recently did a couple of visits.....for research purposes of course, just to compare. Here's what we found......
So let's start with he Butashiso....pork rolled with shiso leaf.
Taisho on top, Yakyudori below. It's kind of easy to see; Taisho's version was more moist and nicely grilled over bincho. Yakyudori gave you more, but was drier, tougher, and more salty.
Taisho 1 Yakyudori 0
Up next, Tsukune, once one of Yakyudori's strong points. However, some time in the last year or two, the recipe seems to have changed and it's now rather tasteless and not as tender.
Good lord, the version at Yakyudori was almost incinerated, it was quite bitter. What happened here?
Taisho 2, Yakyudori 0
The teba, chicken wings are a Yakyudori signature item in my opinion. Here it's a wash.
The wings at Taisho are more moist. Both places have a nice crisp skin.
The wings at Yakyudori is more salty, which I really like with a nice cold Sapporo.
Taisho 2, Yakyudori 0, even 1
The Missus loves Her chicken livers.
It's gotten to the point where Taka-san just puts two on the grill when we arrive.....he doesn't need to ask. And yet, while the version at Taisho is more refined and meaty, what Yakyudori serves seems much more smoky, though dry.
So again it's a wash.
Taisho 2 Yakyudori 0 even 2
So let's move on to those Nagoya Wings.....I love them both, but the Missus has a preference.
She preferred the version at Yakyudori because it wasn't as sweet as Taisho and in spite of the looks, the black pepper flavor wasn't as prominent.
Taisho 2 Yakyudori 1, even 2
And then there's chicken karaage.
Here's where it's interesting again. The version at Taisho, on this visit, had a nice savory flavor.
The version we had at Yakyudori, was more crisp and light.
Taisho 2, Yakyudori 1, even 3
You can see, it pretty close....I will say that as a whole, the standard non-chicken proteins (other than the buta shiso) would probably be better at Yakyudori. Taisho is a bit more refined, less salty, but also not quite the busy scene of Yakyudori.
There are, of course the items that Yakyudori has that Taisho doesn't and the menu is larger.
The Kawasu - chicken skin salad is a favorite.
The natto gohan - natto rice bowl, used to be until it just became a ton of rice and just a bit of natto, which threw the ratio off.
At Tasiho, the kawa - chicken skin is grilled, it often takes a while and the tare gives it a nice sweetness. The texture is crisp around the edges and melt in your mouth in the exterior. We often call it our "dessert".
There's also some interesting specials. Though the Babylon Snails I had the last time weren't nearly as sweet as what I had on a previous visit. The menu is also more limited.
So there you go....I think it's all about what you prefer....the atmosphere and such. Still, it was fun to compare.....
Yakyudori Ramen and Yakitori
4898 Convoy St
San Diego, CA 92111
Yakitori Taisho
5185 Clairemont Mesa Blvd.
San Diego, CA 92117
So maybe you should check them both out and see which suites you the best!
nice that there is more than 1 place to serve good yakitori:)
Posted by: kat | Tuesday, 17 February 2015 at 09:26 PM
Awesome showdown! I'm gonna have to compare those wings myself. :-)
Posted by: Soo H | Wednesday, 18 February 2015 at 08:52 AM
Sorry if this sends twice (gliche earlier). Thanks for this informative post - been curious to see how these two sister restaurants compare to one another. A group of us tried to plan a dinner date at Taisho but they only take rsvp for no more than 4 to a party. It has felt cattle-rushed at Yakyudori during dinner (perhaps a reason for badly grilled food). So it will be interesting to see if Taisho offers a more 'hey relax, enjoy yourself' type of atmosphere when we hopefully visit.
Posted by: Faye | Wednesday, 18 February 2015 at 11:13 AM
ha, i've been waiting for this post!
Posted by: jack | Wednesday, 18 February 2015 at 11:18 AM
Ooh this showdown thing is interesting! I would like to see more! I think it's been too long since I had skewers though...
Posted by: Lynn @ Oh-So Yummy | Wednesday, 18 February 2015 at 04:57 PM
We are lucky Kat!
You should Soo!
Taisho is quite relaxed. It's a nice place for a date night...which is what the Missus and I go there for.
You knew I was going to do this Jack?
Hi Lynn - Being yakitori, it's quite easy. Last time I did one was in 2012, so this was due.
Posted by: Kirk | Wednesday, 18 February 2015 at 06:05 PM
I love this post! and it's crazy how different some of those first few were from the photos.
Posted by: Kirbie | Thursday, 19 February 2015 at 12:27 PM
Considering they are both owned by the same person, the contrast was quite surprising Kirbie!
Posted by: Kirk | Thursday, 19 February 2015 at 12:32 PM
Once Yakyudori became popular I didn't like their focus on higher turnaround. They would literally drop off the check after the last food item arrived when we were planning on ordering more food later. I prefer Hinotez/Koubou with a rowdy group and Taisho if I want a quiet evening.
Posted by: Junichi | Thursday, 19 February 2015 at 02:44 PM
Good point Junichi....somewhere along the line, Yakyudori became more about turnover than putting out a good product. I'll have to try the yakitori at Hinotez again. I usually go for breakfast and the one time I tried the yakitori it wasn't that good....though still better than Koubou (there's a reason that I see a lot of folks getting salad and even French fries there).
Posted by: Kirk | Thursday, 19 February 2015 at 08:16 PM