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« Hanging with Ed from Yuma at Sushi Tadokoro | Main | Sunday Stuffs: Hinotez 2 replacing La Playita, Bristol Farms discounts, and what's fermenting in our hallway »

Friday, 04 October 2013


Ed (from Yuma)

Love the tilework. The blue on white reminds me of Chinese porcelain. Imagine 16th century Europeans suddenly stumbling on China, with its ancient culture so civilized and so different from Europe. Must have blown them away!


Okay, I have to ask does the Chapel of the Bones have a smell to it?


Hi Ed - It was quite striking. If I recall it was the Moors who brought this to Portugal in the 15th century. It's a great reminder of what a powerful country Portugal was.

LOL AZ - I'm not sure about back in the 16th - 17th censtury when in was built. But now it is just a bit dusty and dusky, like any old church.


The Capuchin Crypt in Rome doesn't let you take photos so I bought postcards of their bone chapels. My nephew thought it was so cool, literally and figuratively (it was a welcome respite from the heat!). Me - ok, I've seen it, let's go.


Hi Sandy - I think if you've seen one, you've pretty much seen them all....pretty neat, though.

Ed (from Yuma)

You are right about Iberian tiles in general, Kirk – tiles were one of the many things that the moors brought to the peninsula. But Moorish tiles are usually brightly colored with arabesque or geometric patterns (as in Peubla, Mex, also). What’s unusual about these is the inclusion of pictures of people – very rare in Islamic art. Notice also the ship with the junk-like sails and the pagoda styled buildings in the background Also the blue on white patterns are classic Chinese. They form the inspiration for Wedgwood etc. So I think the idea for these tiles came direct from Macau and environs rather than going through the Muslim world.

That’s why I found the tiles even more fascinating than the bones – though think for a second about being a person building a wall made out of bones, handling each one and fitting it into place. Creeps me out.


Hi Ed - The Azulejos we saw in Sintra National Palace were from the 15th century and reflected the Moorish influences, geometrical patterns and such. The biggest influence on tile design in Portugal were the Spanish. The blue and white coloring was influenced by Chinese trade via Dutch Delftware.

Ed (from Yuma)

As always, you know what you're talking about and getting the blue and white from the Dutch makes sense even though Portuguese had outposts around the world before the Dutch started their pirate empire (as their enemies would have called it). Clearly the Dutch were better at developing their assets.


I'm not sure it's so much about knowing than remembering what was mentioned a couple of times during our trip. If I recall the blue and white themes of Deltfware started in the 16th century or thereabouts. Before then, the colors were different. In the mid-17th century was when the Dutch influence kicked in, also the change in craftsmanship, the details of which I don't recall. That was right past the time the Dutch East India company started importing a lot of Chinese porcelain..... Unreal that I remember this stuff....weird.

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