Evora: Capela dos Ossos (Chapel of the Bones), The Public Market, and the University of Evora

Breakfast at Albergaria do Calvario is no joke.

It is locally sourced, organic, and most of all, well prepared. There's a nice variety of items available; they cram a lot into a tiny space.

You can also have eggs done any way you wish and even bacon if you desire. The Missus had Hers poached. We decided on getting a good sized breakfast since we had reservations for dinner that I was certain (it was) was going to be huge amount of food.

This was to be the day we'd just explore the walled city, stretch our legs, but do things at a relaxed pace. We always identify the one or two things we want to see and leave the rest to fate; it's not important to see everything, rather, we like to take in the atmosphere, people watch, and see how folks live. That's why we just can't do tours, get on the bus, get off the bus, take a bunch of photos just to prove you were there, get back on the bus, rinse...repeat....

There was one place I wanted to visit in Evora.....

Near the Southwest corner of the walled city lies the Igreja de São Francisco, the Church of St Francis.

Now the church is quite grand and beautiful.....

But what really drew me here is in a Chapel outside and to the right of the Church entrance and is probably one of the popular sights in Evora; though there was no one there when I visited. It's called Capela dos Ossos, the "Chapel of the Bones". Ok, I'll admit, inside of me is a adolescent just waiting to burst out and see stuff like this.....

The Missus had no interest in checking this out, so she went on Her way to explore a bit and I walked down the rather peaceful and sedate entrance into the Chapel of the Bones......

Paying and admission and walking under the inscription that reads "We bones that are here, we are waiting for your's", you walk into the rather dark...there are three small windows that let light in on the left side of the structure, kind of eerie, but not particularly spooky "chapel". From what I've read, the chapel was built, with over 5,000 skeleton's by monks who were worried about the deteriorating values of wealthy Evora in the 17th century. They wanted to make people meditate on how fleeting life was and contemplate ones mortality. Oh, and in case you're wondering, the monks who built this aren't included in the collection......

On one of the pillars hangs a poem by Father António da Ascenção:

"Where are you going in such a hurry traveler?
Stop … do not proceed;
You have no greater concern,
Than this one: that on which you focus your sight.

Recall how many have passed from this world,
Reflect on your similar end,
There is good reason to reflect
If only all did the same.

Ponder, you so influenced by fate,
Among the many concerns of the world,
So little do you reflect on death;

If by chance you glance at this place,
Stop … for the sake of your journey,
The more you pause, the further on your journey you will be."

I found this to be sobering and yet beautiful at the same time......

The Missus met me right down the stairs from the church. She had been exploring and told me we should take a walk through the Public Market...which She said was small and empty, yet charming in it's own way. The building that houses the market looks very modern.

It probably wasn't the best time of the day for the market, which was empty except for a few customers.....

After visiting the public markets in Lisbon, Coimbra, Porto (which seemed the busiest), we could only wonder.....had the busy supermarkets (which we also checked out) made these a thing of the past?

We hope not........

Even after just a day, it's hard to get lost in Evora. We headed Northeast and easily found the University of Evora. So, what's up with visiting a University? Well, this one has a long history. It was a Jesuit university established by Don Henrique in 1559. It was one of the crown jewels of Evora's time as the city of artists and intellectuals. When the city lost favor and the Jesuits expelled in 1759, the University was closed. In 1973 it became a state run University again.

Still, it's a University, right? Well, you have to realize that both the Missus' parents taught in Universities....which I've covered in posts before. I think there's a part of the Missus who feels an affinity for College life.....it is part of who She is and what She is. So why not visit an historic campus founded in the 16th century.

What I remember the most about our visit here.....the place is just welcoming and wide open to visitors, are my first really up close encounter with Azulejos, the traditional Portuguese tilework.

Each scene told a story.......

Many of which I interpreted to be of Portugal's travels to Asia......

We peeked into a classroom and were delighted to find that the tilework in the roon reflected what was being taught.

It was well worth the visit.

We left and wandered around a bit....and guess what? Just as on previous walks we ended up at Templo Romano, the Roman Temple. We really got to see how it looked different during every part of the day.

I'm thinking that this is as good a place to stop for now as any.

As always, thanks for stopping by!

Comments

[Ed (from Yuma)]

Love the tilework. The blue on white reminds me of Chinese porcelain. Imagine 16th century Europeans suddenly stumbling on China, with its ancient culture so civilized and so different from Europe. Must have blown them away!

[AZ]

Okay, I have to ask does the Chapel of the Bones have a smell to it?

[Kirk]

Hi Ed - It was quite striking. If I recall it was the Moors who brought this to Portugal in the 15th century. It's a great reminder of what a powerful country Portugal was.

LOL AZ - I'm not sure about back in the 16th - 17th censtury when in was built. But now it is just a bit dusty and dusky, like any old church.

[Sandy]

The Capuchin Crypt in Rome doesn't let you take photos so I bought postcards of their bone chapels. My nephew thought it was so cool, literally and figuratively (it was a welcome respite from the heat!). Me - ok, I've seen it, let's go.

[Kirk]

Hi Sandy - I think if you've seen one, you've pretty much seen them all....pretty neat, though.

[Ed (from Yuma)]

You are right about Iberian tiles in general, Kirk – tiles were one of the many things that the moors brought to the peninsula. But Moorish tiles are usually brightly colored with arabesque or geometric patterns (as in Peubla, Mex, also). What’s unusual about these is the inclusion of pictures of people – very rare in Islamic art. Notice also the ship with the junk-like sails and the pagoda styled buildings in the background Also the blue on white patterns are classic Chinese. They form the inspiration for Wedgwood etc. So I think the idea for these tiles came direct from Macau and environs rather than going through the Muslim world.

That’s why I found the tiles even more fascinating than the bones – though think for a second about being a person building a wall made out of bones, handling each one and fitting it into place. Creeps me out.

[Kirk]

Hi Ed - The Azulejos we saw in Sintra National Palace were from the 15th century and reflected the Moorish influences, geometrical patterns and such. The biggest influence on tile design in Portugal were the Spanish. The blue and white coloring was influenced by Chinese trade via Dutch Delftware.

[Ed (from Yuma)]

As always, you know what you're talking about and getting the blue and white from the Dutch makes sense even though Portuguese had outposts around the world before the Dutch started their pirate empire (as their enemies would have called it). Clearly the Dutch were better at developing their assets.

[Kirk]

I'm not sure it's so much about knowing than remembering what was mentioned a couple of times during our trip. If I recall the blue and white themes of Deltfware started in the 16th century or thereabouts. Before then, the colors were different. In the mid-17th century was when the Dutch influence kicked in, also the change in craftsmanship, the details of which I don't recall. That was right past the time the Dutch East India company started importing a lot of Chinese porcelain..... Unreal that I remember this stuff....weird.