A Long Story, a Longer Line, and Dinner at Phil's B-B-Q

It's old Ed (from Yuma) drinking some old wine and standing in a long SD line. Cathy and Kirk will be posting here again soon.

My old buddy Steve had a couple of days free in San Diego recently, so I drove over for some conversation and food . . .  and wine. Steve had brought a bottle of 1992 Caparone Cabernet Sauvignon, Bien Nacido Vineyard. "It's 21 years old," I said, "old enough to drink.":

We had been out walking around Mission Beach and Mission Bay earlier on Sunday, but we wanted to watch the last half of the Chargers/Cowboys back at the motel. That way, we could relax and sample that well aged California Cabernet.

As it turned out, the wine was smooth and still flavorful, and the Chargers game was way better than expected, San Diego scoring 17 points in the 2nd half and winning 30-21. When the game was over, Steve and I were very hungry, but neither of us felt like driving around looking for dinner. Since we each had a room at what I call "The Exploding Motel", the 2 main restaurants within easy walking distance were a Red Lobster and Phil's BBQ, so we arrived at Phil’s around 5:30:

I assumed there would be no line – after all, we were dining early on a Sunday, but half of Qualcomm Stadium must have descended on Phil that late afternoon. Many in the line that extended from the entrance over to and around the corner and then along the side were wearing Cowboys or Chargers gear. Steve and I waited for almost 30 min. before we came up to the sign telling us we had only around 21 more minutes to wait. And all of that waiting only led to placing an order at the counter; at that point, we were given a plate with silverware, cleanup wipes, and a pager so that we could grab our food when it's ready: 

After this nearly hour-long process, I hoped the food would be worth it.

I am not a barbecue purist or fanatic. I grew up in southern Oregon, not southern Tennessee, and I was an adult before I ever experienced slow cooked fully smoked pit barbecue. I’d heard enough about Phil’s to know that it’s ‘cue for the masses, not connoisseurs. I was okay with that, really.

The first taste I got was a slice of tri-tip from an El Toro sandwich ($6.95). The very tender chargrilled meat had a nice smoky flavor, there was a lot of it, and it was covered in Phil's sauce. In fact it's hard to see that this picture is a photo of a sandwich at all.:

Steve tells me that the onion rings in the photo were really tasty, and if the speed by which they disappeared is any indication, he was right. They were part of a "baby back rib tickler" – 3 ribs, two onion rings, coleslaw, and fresh cut fries ($6.95). Here is the rest of a tickler:

The sides I tried at Phil's BBQ were good. While the french fries were not especially crisp, they had a good clean fresh potato flavor. With a little malt vinegar and some ketchup – a bottle of each is on every table – they were quite tasty. The coleslaw was even better. It was not gooey, runny, sugary, or overdressed in any way. The cabbage and vegetables were crisp and the tangy dressing was a perfect match. Steve tells me that the corn on the cob was also good even though late September is not its prime season.

Unable to make up my mind, I had ordered the "baby back ribs and chicken dinner" ($12.95), pictured here with the large side of corn on the cob and a small extra side of coleslaw.:

I had no complaints about the chicken. It tasted as if it had been roasted over mesquite, and it had not been overcooked. The breast, while not the most flavorful meat, still was moist and slightly smoky. The skin on the chicken quarter was consistently flavorful.

Phil sez "The Sauce is the Boss," as the menu explains, so it covered both and chicken and the ribs. And it is excellent and spicy barbecue sauce. Its vinegar tang balances the sweet notes on the plate and cuts through the richness of the meat.

The ribs themselves, on the other hand, were disappointing. Certainly tender enough, the ribs were also moist with a slight smoky flavor. However, they exhibited the effects of parboiling – the background taste of boiled pork and a soft gray color lightly tanned and dotted with specks and splotches of black:

They looked nothing like the well browned and charred barbecued ribs on the flat screens in the restaurant or the pictures at Phil’s website.

I'm not saying that these ribs were terrible or inedible, but they were mass produced and not individually crafted. They needed the complex sauce to cover over their shortcomings.

I'm also not saying you should avoid Phil's – even considering the long lines, the friendly but minimalist service, and the mundane interior:

Going to Phil's BBQ has become an authentic San Diego experience. The chicken and the side dishes are generally good. The prices are truly excellent. I still marvel at 4 ribs, a quarter of a chicken, and two generous side dishes altogether for $12.95. Phil’s is fine, but seek out real ‘Que elsewhere.

Phil’s BBQ, 3750 Sports Arena Blvd., San Diego, CA 92110, 619-226-6333. Closed on Mondays. Locations also in San Marcos and Santee.

 

 

Comments

[Kirk]

Like I've always said Ed. Phil's makes some of the best "ketchup" in San Diego....great on the fries. As for the ribs...'meh'

[nhbilly]

At least the wine was tasty.

[J.S. @ Sun Diego Eats]

I had never had BBQ until I was in college either and even though Phil's is far from bad tasting it didn't blow me away either. I like the chicken as well and I usually get the beef ribs instead of the pork.

[Theo]

Kirk, could you please do Coop's? Some locals swear that they have better BBQ than Phil's.

http://www.yelp.com/biz/coops-west-texas-barbeque-lemon-grove

[Kirk]

It is better than Phil's, like in a different universe better, like real BBQ better.....I've been there, just have never posted on the place.

[buddha]

Phil's is a complete joke!

I remember maybe 10 years ago this is where I first talked to Kirk on the old Chowhound site.

We would talk about Phil's on the site.

I had organized some parties and that is where Kirk met Ed I believe it was at the Jasmine party or maybe a previous party.

The rest as they say is history.

I cook my own BBQ and have tried Phil's, Coops, etc. and none of them can hold a candle to mine at home.

[Ed (from Yuma)]

I did not doubt your word, Kirk, but I've had other commodity ribs before that were better than Phil's. They really didn't "meat" my fairly low expectations. I guess you gotta do a Coop's post now.

The wine and conversation were very good, billy. It was overall a good evening. And I agree in general, JS, with what you say. That was about how I felt.

Good to hear from you again, buddha. I don't remember Kirk at the Jasmine get together (but he may have been at the other table), but he was the one who organized the sichuan dinner at the place that had just fired its chef. I never did get over for some of your bbq, but back in the day, Yuma actually had a place with ribs way better than Phil's. The visit to Phil's was occasioned by geography, not cuisine.

[buddha]

I am fairly certain that he was at your table at the Jasmine party. I was also at the sichuan party I think he and I organized that one.

I am happy that I brought you two together and you became good friends.

[Carol]

The Mister works around the corner from Phil's and he said that the parking lot is no longer crammed during lunches like it used to a few years back. Not surprised since their ribs have steadily gotten worse. Still like their sauce though.

Ed, if you're ever there again, the small Pho shop in the same complex is not bad. Certainly for walking distance.

[Ed (from Yuma)]

I'll have to ask Kirk about Jasmine. That was a LONG time ago.

Thanks for the tip, Carol. The pho place must be a somewhat recent addition. I sometimes went to an Indian restaurant that used to be in the complex. But truth be told, I actually wanted to try Phil's just to understand the crowds and the controversy.

[Denver]

Phil's is overrated. I can't understand the popularity. I can't stand their sauce. Too vinegary and they smother it on all their meats. Next time I'll get sauce on the side. Their sliced beef brisket sandwich is awful.

Coop's is the best in SD so far. Love the pulled pork and rib tips. Family-owned and great service. Great choices of sauces and free sweet tea. Their only downside for me is location since they are far from me.

Bull's Smokin' BBQ is a decent alternative. The beef ribs are pretty big. Haven't tried the pork ribs. The sandwiches were kinda disappointing.

Abbey's Real Texas BBQ in Miramar doesn't get too much love but I like their sandwiches (pork or brisket). Kinda pricey.

[Ed (from Yuma)]

Thanks, Denver. I had not heard of Coop's before the responses to the post. But as I've said, I was mostly looking for a dinner close. While I was not expecting a lot from Phil's, I was expecting a little better than I got. I do like the vinegery sauce, but to each their own.