I've been trying to restore my "restaurant mojo" since returning from vacation. After some not very good meals, I wondered how those places that used to be on our rotation was doing these days. So about two weeks ago, I decided to revisit a few that I haven't been to in a while. And so "It's been a while week" is born.
Latin Chef used to be a favorite of the Missus and I, we'd often visit several times a week. I could easily have credited the place with fueling the fire to visit Peru in 2007. It held a prominent place in our rotation at one time. But our enthusiasm eventually waned when the original chef moved back to Peru. And though I've visited a couple of times in 2011 and once early last year, the food on those visits was quite uneven. Part of what was missing for me was the presence of Freddy, the owner, a friendly, gracious, gentleman, who always had time to chat a bit. I'm sure he was around, but never on our visits, and the food seemed to suffer.
Still, the recent warm weather made it seem just right for some cebiche so I headed on over to Latin Chef.
And lo' and behold, who was waving at me from the window but Freddy! I hadn't seen him in at least four years. I had a seat and we caught up on things while I placed my order. While waiting for my food, Freddy sat down and we had a chat. Over the years, the menu had expanded to include Brazilian dishes, which I'd never had. Some folks attribute the uneven food to the addition of that side of the menu. When I asked Freddy about those dishes, he told me that without te Brazilian menu, they would not have survived the last three years. Enough with business....we chatted about how Peru has changed over the couple of years. It seems that everyone there now wants to be a chef! Maybe it's time to start planning another visit, eh? Though I was also told that prices have soared as well.
As Freddy served me my Anticuchos, he had to take leave to head out and shop.
I've always enjoyed the marinated beef heart at Latin Chef and I enjoyed this. Well prepared, with a nice chew but not too tough and rubbery, flavored with a mildly spicy chili-annatto marinade with a hint of acid I thought these were nice.
My cebiche pescado wasn't quite as good. First, no chanchita? That's almost a deal breaker for me as I love those toasted kernels of corn.
As much as I enjoy the bracing flavor of a good cebiche pescado, this was way too sour for me. I wouldn't be slurping up this leche de tigre (the cebiche marinade). The fish was under marinated for my taste, a bit too tough, as if the acid in the leche de tigre didn't have enough time. As for potatoes, it was a plain camote or sweet potato. Sadly, this was a far cry from the "vintage cebiche pescado" of Latin Chef's past:
Perhaps it was an off day. I'll probably be back to (finally) try some of the Brazilian dishes on the menu and maybe the cebiche pescado again. Hopefully, it'll be back to classic form.
Latin Chef
1142 Garnet Ave
San Diego, CA 92109
Good idea for the week. It's probably been 2 years or more since I was at Latin Chef. The last couple of visits have just been for cebiche - too bad it is no longer as good as it once was. Hate when that happens!
Posted by: Ed (from Yuma) | Tuesday, 23 July 2013 at 09:49 AM
I do too Ed!
Posted by: Kirk | Tuesday, 23 July 2013 at 11:14 AM
Beef hearts! Augh - I still haven't mustered up the courage to try beef hearts. Silly question - but does it taste metallic?
Posted by: Faye | Tuesday, 23 July 2013 at 04:12 PM
I've never had the Peruvian food but I have tried the Brazilian food there! It was ok. It was nice to eat something that was similar to the food I had growing up but I wasn't too impressed.
Posted by: J.S. @ Sun Diego Eats | Tuesday, 23 July 2013 at 04:53 PM
Hi Faye - I think you'll like it. It's more of a muscle and is a bit chewy. I'm not a fan of mineral-ly-metallic organ flavors either. This one is neither.
Hi JS - Long before the Brazilian food made it on the menu....which I've never had BTW. This place was full on Peruvian. It used to make good Peruvian standards when the original chef, from Cusco, was there. I still miss the tiradito.
Posted by: Kirk | Tuesday, 23 July 2013 at 07:17 PM