Dinner at Kensington Grill

 mmm-yoso!!! is Kirk's foodblog, and he posts about all things food in San Diego and the world; sometimes Cathy shares meals with us here too; but today, ed (from Yuma) is posting about Kensington Grill (in San Diego).

Kensington Grill has also closed. if this keeps happening, I may not be allowed in some establishments in the future.

Sometimes bad luck is good luck in disguise. Case in point – Tina and I had arrived in San Diego for a brief vacation in the latter half of June. Of course, I had a list of restaurants with locations and phone numbers etc., but we knew we would only be able to make it to a few of the places on the list. Anyway, the first place we wanted to go to didn't have its regular menu on that Monday night. The next place was closed because it was Monday, and I had not read the website carefully. By this point, we were ravenous, and only one other restaurant in the area was on my list. That is how we ended up at Kensington Grill:

The restaurant is moderately large with an attractive bar occupying the central area:

Tina and I were both impressed by the tasteful and understated dining areas. This is a view from our table:

I really had no idea what kind of food to expect, and the menu was full of various choices listed in categories like Soups and Salads, Boards, Bites/Sides, Bowls, Small Plates, Large Plates, and Hog Bar. My mind boggles pretty easily when faced with the unusual (and at my age, there is a lot of unusual in this world). So Tina and I spent some time going over the menu trying to figure out a dinner plan.

Eventually, we decided to choose a wine and then select a range of dishes that would complement the vino and show off the cuisine of the restaurant. I was intrigued by the Tangent Albariño ($36) – a white wine from Edna Valley in Santa Barbara County – so we ordered a bottle:

This was certainly a fine way to begin a meal. Albariño is the best white wine grape in Spain, but I have seen or tasted very few bottles from California. In the glass, the wine had an intriguing floral aroma, and in the mouth, the initial dryness on the palate became lush and rich and complex and fruity. Flavors exploded on the palate. Unexpectedly good. And a good value in a restaurant wine.

Our server, Edson (no relation), had described the soup of the day ($8.50) so well that Tina and I were determined to split a bowl:

The predominant ingredient in this chilled soup was ripe creamy California avocado, its natural sweetness set off with a slight sour (citrus?) note. The avocado was matched by intense fennel flavors. I had never imagined those two things combined, but like experienced lovers, they danced together beautifully. The chunks of crab added some texture and proved again that the inventor of California rolls understood flavor pairings. The fresh herbs and drizzle of chili oil completed the dish.

Our server also recommended the calamari salad – called kg calamari on the menu ($10):

The tender calamari had been lightly breaded and fried and then tossed with shredded cabbages, sliced sweet peppers, bean sprouts, chopped cilantro, crushed peanuts, and sweet chili sauce. Altogether like some Southeast Asian salad. Crisp and refreshing. A very nice contrast with the soup, and Tina and I loved it.

We felt like we should try something from the Boards category – a customer's selection of three ($14), four ($18), or five ($21) different bruschettas, each cut into three pieces and all presented on a wooden paddle:

One was somewhat Mediterranean/traditional with tomato, cucumber, artichoke, and feta cheese:

As you would expect, the taste focused on those fresh ingredients, but instead of the standard artichoke hearts I was expecting, puréed marinated artichoke was spread across the bruschetta before the chopped fresh ingredients were added.

Completely different, the crabapple and brie bruschetta with carmelized onion jam featured the smooth, rich, melted cheese contrasting with the crunchy bread and subdued sweet flavors of the fruit:

In the middle bruschetta, a sweet fig/date spread covered the crunchy bread, all of which was topped with bits of speck and lardo:

Rich intense tastes. Sweet, salty, smoky, crunchy. Reminded me of childhood, when I would dip my breakfast bacon in pancake syrup.

In retrospect, we had already eaten enough food for a normal dinner. However, we had placed our entire order at the beginning of the meal, so more food kept arriving.

Earlier that day Tina had mentioned a place in Phoenix that specializes in chicken and waffles, so when I saw shrimp waffle ($13) as a small plate on the menu, I had to have it:

Weird as it sounded, this was tasty. The waffle had standard waffle flavors enhanced with jack cheese and scallions. The shrimp were fresh, perfectly cooked, and flavorful. The buttery creole sauce, with slices of shallot and red fresno pepper, brought the whole thing together. Good and rich. More memories of childhood breakfasts – but also like no waffle dish I’d ever tasted before.

The last item was from the Bowls section of the menu – the sautéed mussels ($12):

This was a difficult dish to photograph, as is evident by the picture. The plump and fresh flavored mussels were served in a black frying pan (so little light and minimal color contrast for the mussels). The bivalves were bathing in a standout spicy green curry sauce with abundant kaffir lime and creamy coconut milk. The slices of toasted bread were perfect for soaking up sauce. Unfortunately, neither Tina nor I had much room left at this point. So we fished out the tasty mussels, appreciated the flavorful broth, and ate almost none the crispy toasted bread slices.

All in all, we got lucky and had a good time. The chef skillfully brought together techniques and flavors from around the world. The setting was pleasant, the service good, and the timing of the meal excellent. The only problem was that we ordered too much. Honestly, I am surprised that there doesn't seem to be a lot of buzz about Kensington Grill. Perhaps the menu or head chef are new. In any case, Both Tina and I are eager to eat here again.

Kensington Grill, 4055 Adams Ave., 619-281-4014. Open for dinner 5-9:30 on Monday through Thursday and from 5-10 on Friday and Saturday evenings.

 

Comments

[Cliff]

I went there a month or two ago..

The "Bowls" or "Small Plate" items, such as the mussels and shrimp waffle were pretty good.

Unfortunately, the "large plate" items are a disappointment, especially at the higher price. We got the sea bass and short rib and both were "meh" dishes.

I'd either stick with the small plates or just go to Cucina Urbana :)

[ed (from Yuma)]

Maybe, Cliff, that is the problem with the restaurant. The impression I got was that the menu has been retooled to focus more on the smaller plates. Thanks for warning us about the large plate items.

[caninecologne]

Although I haven't been here in a few years, I've enjoyed my meals here. It's a nice place to go to after a movie at the Ken (next door).

[James]

Agree - the small/smaller plates are where it's at here. The entrees just aren't that interesting. One exception: the burger, which is outstanding!

[ed (from Yuma)]

Yeh, cc, that is a reason to go. It's possible also that there isn't more buzz about the Grill because it has been around for so long.

I guess, James, that Tina got lucky by deciding to go the small plate route. We did it mostly because we wanted to sample a range of things.

[Steve]

ed, there will be a Tangent whites and seafood diner @ the wine vault on Sunday, August 05, 2012 at 5:00 if you'd like to try more of their wines. 5 Courses & 5 wines $49.40.

[ed (from Yuma)]

Yeh, Steve, thanks for letting me know. In fact, right after I read your comment, I looked at my email in-box and there was the announcement about the wine dinner from The Wine Vault. I hope I can make it, but I don't have firm plans yet.

[caninecologne]

ed, fyi - Kensington Grill is now gone. It's been replaced by two restaurants, Fish Public and The Haven Pizzeria. I've only tried the pizza place (verdict = liked it enough to go back twice the same week). :)