Athens: Diporto and the Changing of the Guard

By the time we'd finished walking through the Central Market we were pretty hungry. Luckily, we happened to be right outside the fruit and vegetable section of the market. Here, on the corner of Theatrou and Sokratous, down these stairs and past these doors was a place I first read about on Matt Barrett's wonderful Athen's Survival Guide.

Matt calls this place the "Secret Underground Taverna", but later on, when one of the customers, a very friendly young woman originally from Athens, but now living in London, who was quite surprised seeing us eating here, told us the name of the place is Diporto. Yes, "double doors", those very doors you walk through when you enter.

There is indeed a sense of mystery as you walk down the stairs and enter what looks like a wine cellar.....

In the corner was an older gentleman moving at a steady pace preparing the various offerings for the day. This basement taverna has no menu, the two men working that day didn't speak any English. They smiled and invited the Missus over to the pots so She could choose our lunch for us.

Based on our experience, you'll get a tin of wine and some glasses delivered to your table regardless if you request it or not.

This tasted pretty astringent. Later when that young lady started talking to us, we were told that next time we should order a Sprite to mix with the wine.

In good order our food arrived, the food was simple, but like many of these types of places, very comforting. The Missus favorite of the two soups was the Revithosoupa, a simple but well seasoned Garbanzo Bean Soup.

I enjoyed the Black Eyed Bean soup, which was very hearty.

The Greek Salad seasoned with sea salt and oregano, was quite delicious. The tomatoes were so perfectly ripe.......

The stewed lamb shank actually had more flavor than what we'd had at Strofi the night before.

In retrospect, this was my favorite meal in Athens. As we ate our meal, we watched the locals, mostly older gentlemen come in and get their lunch. Overall, a relaxing and enjoyable experience.

After lunch, we walked on over to Syntagma Square. The Missus really wanted me to see something. She led me to the gathering of tourists in front of the Parliament Building.

I really didn't know what the heck was going on until I saw some soldiers dressed in ceremonial uniforms march up.

This was the changing of the Presidential Guard in front of the Parliament Building, which I understand occurs every hour....24 hours a day.

 The uniforms are based on those worn by the Klephts, the mountain people of Greece who fought the Ottomans.

I'm sure the ceremony itself is full of symbolism.......

And is full of synchronized high and kick like steps along with arm movements.

I think you'll have a better understanding after watching this Youtube video.....

Comments

[kat]

great post, loved the video at the end too!

[grey]

The soups look really good... is that olive oil drizzled on top? Broth based?

Nice to see Greek salad in Greece....surprised no feta cheese? And i'm used to black olives LOL

wondering about the astrigent wine.. it is Red? served in a copper cup? This is all new to me. Thanks :))))

[Kirk]

Hi Kat - Thanks! I'm glad you enjoyed the post.

Hi Grey - No, it's the bean stock. Most of the salads do come with a slab of feta on top. The wine is a white wine, it comes in a copper cup which I guess you could drink, but it acts more like a carafe. This was pretty new to me at the time as well!