Suzhou: The Humble Administrator's Garden and the best pot of tea I've ever had.

*** My apologies, this is one of those really long posts, and there's not much food in this one.  You may want to return tomorrow for more food!

After our we started walking to our first "destination". Suzhou is well known for their wonderful gardens, most were built during the Ming and Qing dynasties by retired scholar and business men. The largest garden in Suzhou is called the Humble Administrator's Garden, spanning thirteen acres it is anything but humble. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Sight, meandering on zig zag bridges and trails over and around water. I'm going to stop now, and just do pictures...... I could never do this place justice in one short post.......

 

 

Taking a close look, you soon realize that every space within the garden was carefully designed. I find the idea of creating a calculated aesthetic to match the randomness of nature somewhat fascinating.

 

I loved all the windows......

 

 

 

And for some reason, I could just sit and look out the moon gates.......

 

All of which seem to frame it's very own living portrait.........

 

There are many pavilions along the way.....where you can soak in the garden view....or check your map to figure out where you were.

 

There are many buildings along the way, such as the "Hall of Distant Fragrance":

 

And the "Hall of Elegance":

 

But we found the tiny nooks and crannies like this quaint "couples retreat" most charming......

 

Another feature of the gardens are the large natural stones that represent different scenes.

It can be a bit overwhelming at times, and don't let the seemingly tranquil photos fool you. There are some pretty large crowds in the garden.

 

 

Yet, there are always those moments..... like this one, where I looked up at the ceiling of the "Listening to the Sound of Rain Pavilion".

 

I could almost hear the "sighing of the autumn rain" giving "great pleasure to all those who have noble sentiments".

 

Connected to the garden is the Suzhou Museum, designed by I.M. Pei, who drew much of his architectural inspiration from the gardens of Suzhou. For us, it was way too sleek and modern, but it also housed what was probably the cleanest public bathrooms we came across in China!

Also attached to the garden and museum is Prince Zhong House - Zhong Wang Fu. This was the orginal location of the Suzhou Museum.

 

 
Within the complex is a restored classic Chinese Opera stage.

 

 

Exiting the garden and museum, the Missus decided that "garden fatigue" hadn't set in, so why not try for another one. We headed off on foot, looking for the Couple's Garden....which took some looking for. We wandered past tiny streets that reminded us of the "hutongs" in Beijing, which turned into vast lots where the ever present modernization of China was taking place. We worked hard to find the garden......

We did find this well, though......

 
Which apparently is of some significance.

 
After going around in circles, the Missus asked for directions and we found the Couple's Garden. It was down a small side street.

 

This garden was built in 1874, and is located at the intersection of canals and surrounded on three sides by them.

This garden was tiny, quiet, and serene.

 

 
After about twenty minutes or so, we hit the wall. It was time for a break, and we headed out on foot, back to Guan Qian  Jie.

We enjoyed walking down the residential back streets of Suzhou.......

 

 

Walking down one of the streets, we passed this building which really stood out.

It turned out to be a museum of Kunqu Opera, a form of Chinese Opera dating back to the 16th century. Having traveled quite a bit, even though we were tempted, we knew when to say when, and decided to take a pass on this one.

 

 

After a short while, we finally made it to the street that paralleled a canal on the other side of Renmin Lu.

 

Crossing the canal and Renmin Lu.... we were back within the hustle and bustle of Guan Qian Jie. The Missus decided to pick up some snacks..... and in spite of the heat and humidity, determined that we needed some tea, and found a tea house on the second floor of a tea shop right across the Xuanmiao Temple.

 

The Missus went over the list of teas, and decided we should have the Ti Kuan Yin. When I saw the price.... 70 Yuan, over ten bucks for tea! I refused..... but the Missus insisted, and eventually I gave in. And I gotta say; this was the most fragrant, wonderfully flavored tea I've ever had. Nothing before, nor since (I've had tons of tea from China) has even come close.

 

 

While the Missus had Her snacks......

 

 

I just kept pouring myself cup after cup of tea....which lasted a good long time, we went through a whole large thermos of hot water, and watched the crowds below.

 

 

This was just one of those perfect moments.......

 

And where I started learning the wonders of having tea.... something that I've kept up since returning home.

 

In our travels, there always seems to be that perfect moment, whether it's having dinner on the shores of the Mekong, drinking Chicha de Jora in a tiny dirt floored shack in Calca, or having a meal and drinks at Can Cau Market.... it's those moments that stay with us.

Thanks so much for hanging in there and reading!

Comments

[kat]

sounded like a great place to relax and think! loved all the beautiful photos!

[AZ]

Beautiful! I think I'll go back and look at all the pictures a third time! Green tea is wonderful, I drink it all the time, but I've never had a $10 pot of tea!

[Jo`]

What an astoundingly beautiful post Kirk! I must say, without such beauty, good food would not be nearly as good.

[bill]

Beautiful...I never knew why there was holes in the tea tray until I met my wife. LOL
Yeah and $10 bucks for tea better be good.

[Kirk]

Hi Kat - All the gardens we visited in Suzhou are beautiful.

Hi AZ - I've started drinking Ti Kuan Yin just about everyday.

So true Jo, so true!

Hi Bill - That's funny..... I thought it was kinda obvious! ;o)

[caninecologne]

hi kirk - what a really thoughtful post. loved the photos of the windows and the gardens. i always enjoy reading your posts, whether food is mentioned or not!

[Sandy]

I was wondering if you were going to the Humble Administrator's Garden. Now I want to go back and look at the photos that I took. I do recall buying film at the shop because I took so many pictures.

[I hope someone out there isn't thinking, "what's film?"]

[Jeff C]

Kirk,
wonderful post. Definitely one place I would like to visit. I think I would probably fill an 4G SD card on just that visit alone.
Loved the comment about the tea.

[Kirk]

Thanks CC!

Hi Sandy - I love that last sentence...... I did have someone ask me that a couple of weeks ago! ;o)

Hi Jeffrey - In all we took nearly 400 shots here...... it was hard to pick out just a few!

[Dmarie]

wow, thanks for taking me along for the trip!

[Kirk]

Hi Dmarie - Thank you for visiting!

[Susan Marmé]

Love Suzhou, was just pointed to your blog by a friend - it's nice to see that someone else loves and understands the city. If you're there again please go to the Wang Si restaurant in the Guanqian area, much much better than the De Yue Lou (where we also had poor service in the "regular people's" area by the way, but their minced fish with pine nuts was terrific).

[Kirk]

Hi Susan - Thanks for visiting and reading! I think that the Missus being born and rasied in China had something to do with understanding Suzhou, and the other cities we visited. Thanks as well for the recommendation. I do think we'll be back in Suzhou again.