This year, the Missus wanted Oden (おでん) a hot pot/stew that usually features a variety of fish cakes. The recipe for the broth is quite simple, and is basically exactly as described in Shizuo Tsuji's Japanese Cooking: A Simple Art , one of my favorite cookbooks. Other than the fact I use only dashi (Tsuji uses a combination of chicken stock and dashi), I think the real difference, if any was all in the preparation and serving.
As with many Japanese dishes; everything starts (and ends with) the Dashi. Instead of beginning the heating of the kombu right away; I'll actually first score 5-6" squares of wiped kombu, then soak in cold water overnight basically making Kombu Dashi. The next day I'll bring the liquid up to temp, heating to just the point where bubbles appear in the water, then I'll remove the kombu. The center part of the kombu should be soft...... you should be able to press your fingernail into the kombu. After the kelp has been removed, I'll increase the heat of the liquid until it just about reaches a boil, remove it from heat, then add the Katsuobushi (bonito flakes). I'll then very gently stir once; then wait until all the katsuobushi sinks to the bottom of the pot before straining through a cheesecloth.
Once I put together the broth, I'll place the longer cooking stewing items, like daikon, kombu, shiitake mushroom, and konnyaku into the broth to simmer. As for the other items, when I'm ready to serve the Oden, I'll ladle out the amount of broth and stewed items into a smaller pot; add in the Missus's favorite fish cakes and boiled eggs and bring to a simmer and heat through. Simmering fried fishcakes can give your broth a oily sheen, makes the cakes soggy and bland, and basically look quite unattractive. I'll pour boiling water over Abura-age (Fried tofu) to remove the excess oil, cut into triangles, and place into the bowl, along with some kamaboko. you'll notice that there's a scarcity of chikuwa (broiled fish cake)..... it seems that the Missus prefers more expensive stuff.
I also added a few items that the Missus enjoys like Satoimo (taro). The Missus also loves Inoki Mushrooms, but when added to a stew all the stalks break apart and go every which way. So this time, I soaked some Kanpyo (dried calabash shavings), and used them to tie the bundles of Inoki Mushroom together. Here's a pretty good list of items that you can add to your Oden. I'm just including the recipe for the broth.
Oden Broth:
8 Cups Ichiban Dashi
1/2 Cup neutral flavored soy sauce - Aloha or Yamasa
1/4 Cup Whole Bean Kikkoman (just using Kikkoman tends to overwhelm the other subtle flavors for me)
3/4 Cup Mirin
1 Tsp Sea Salt
- Bring the dashi to a simmer, add soy sauce and mirin. Simmer to burn off some of the alcohol
- Taste and adjust flavors. Add salt to taste.
- Add daikon, konnyaku, etc first. Remember that every ingredient will add its own flavor to the broth, that's the magic of the dish.
I'll usually serve this with hot mustard.
Consume on one of the coldest days of the year........
delish! I haven't made oden in awhile, should make some when I get back to Osaka.
Posted by: kat | Monday, 03 January 2011 at 09:03 PM
We've had the 'ingredients' part many times, but not this broth. Another use for the Mirin! Thanks for this recipe.
Posted by: Cathy | Tuesday, 04 January 2011 at 06:54 AM
Hi Kat - It's been unusually cold (and wet) around these parts lately; so this was the perfect remedy for the Missus.
Hi Cathy - You know; I love the fragrance mirin gives off when it's being used.
Posted by: Kirk | Tuesday, 04 January 2011 at 07:40 AM
Look delicious. I love eating oden on cold days. My favorite is the kamaboko. In Taiwan, they have the prettiest flower designs on them, but I haven't seen it here. Your idea for keeping the mushrooms together is ingenious!
Posted by: kirbie | Tuesday, 04 January 2011 at 09:08 AM
Kirk,
now I know why my wife likes Oden. And with this recipe, she'll get to taste it again.
Awesome! Have a great New Year!
Posted by: Jeff C | Tuesday, 04 January 2011 at 10:08 AM
I loooove oden! I've never tried to make it before, though. Maybe I will!
Happy new year!
Posted by: Jenne | Tuesday, 04 January 2011 at 10:15 AM
Funny, my mom made nishime and ozoni for New Year's many times when we were growing up but I don't remember her ever making oden. It looks kinda like nishime. Anyway, yours looks really yummy! :)
Posted by: Lori | Tuesday, 04 January 2011 at 10:58 AM
Hi Kirbie - I think there must be a pretty interesting history behind how popular Oden.... aka "Olen" (黑輪)is in Taiwan.
Hi Jeffrey - Taiwanese Oren is a bit different than this pretty traditional version. Still at heart it's the same.
Hi Jenne - Happy New Year to you! Convoy Conquest, huh?
Hi Lori - I also didn't grow up eating Oden... it was Nishime, Soba, and Ozoni for New Year for me as well. It could be because it's more of a Nagoya/Kansai dish.... and most of the Japanese that migrated to Hawaii weren't from that area.
Posted by: Kirk | Tuesday, 04 January 2011 at 11:53 AM
Looks so good, Kirk! I've never had oden, just nishime. Oden has everything that I love so I'll have to make this before winter ends. Thanks for sharing the recipe!
Posted by: Carol | Tuesday, 04 January 2011 at 02:23 PM
Yes, it's my new project!
I think it will keep me busy for a while. :-)
Posted by: Jenne | Tuesday, 04 January 2011 at 04:49 PM
Kirk,
Did you get my last email?
I am looking for a place to buy a chinese clay pot and also if you found out where I can get a decent japanese sushi knife. Thanks in advance.
Posted by: Buddha | Tuesday, 04 January 2011 at 08:57 PM
Hi Carol - This is good stuff for cold evenings.
Hi Jenne - It sure will!
Hi Buddha - Yes, I'm still working on it. You can check for clay pots at T&L and Chef City might have them.... and you might even like their knives.
Posted by: Kirk | Wednesday, 05 January 2011 at 07:18 AM
After reading this post, I went straight to my local Japanese market to pick up their oden set for dinner...not quite the same as making it yourself (yours is gorgeous!), but it'll do in a pinch. Happy New Years! :)
Posted by: Kathy | Wednesday, 05 January 2011 at 12:26 PM
What a beautiful bowl of oden - so colorful! I do it the easy way and pick up one of those sets at Tokyo Fish Market, with all of the oden fillings in it. I like mine with a LOT of different kinds of fishcake too. :)
Posted by: sherry | Wednesday, 05 January 2011 at 07:18 PM
Hmmm a lot of fish cake...
When U cold maybe spicy hot pot with lamb is pretty good
Posted by: Aseanguy | Wednesday, 05 January 2011 at 11:24 PM
Hi Kathy - Happy New Year to you!
Hi Sherry - The Missus is pretty picky as to what She wants in Her Oden.... otherwise I'd be doing the same thing!
Hi Aseanguy - Hmmmm, that's a lot of lamb! Actually, I love lamb and do make Huo Guo.... but I'm saving that for Chinese New Year!
Posted by: Kirk | Thursday, 06 January 2011 at 07:28 AM
Mmmmm... I love oden but haven't yet made it at home as it seems to be quite difficult to find the stuff for it in shops here.. :(
Posted by: Su-Lin | Monday, 10 January 2011 at 07:39 AM
Hi Su-Lin, I'm hoping that you'll eventually have access to all the ingrdients.
Posted by: Kirk | Monday, 10 January 2011 at 11:40 AM