After our visit to Zhongshan Park, we caught a bus back to Downtown QingDao. The Missus's Fifth Aunt had recommended we check out Pi Chai Yuan, a revamped food street located in downtown.
Basically an alleyway that cuts across a block on Zhongshan Lu, with another perpendicular alleyway bisecting it. Pi Chai Yuan hosts a number of small eateries.
Here you can find shops selling QingDao specialties like QingDao Guotie(pot sitckers), Lu Bao, and stands like this one selling......
One of the Missus's (and Her Mom's) favorite things...... Haw (Chinese Hawthorne 山楂) Jelly....
A taste of the Missus's childhood.... we came back on later visits to buy the "homemade" and a good half-dozen of those in packages suitable for bringing back to the states. The funny thing was, there seemed to be a cut-off age-wise as to who enjoys this and who doesn't. The Missus's younger cousins really don't like the stuff...... but those around the Missus' age love it.
The Guotie shop was doing some major business...... we'd be hitting that place on a future visit for sure.
While the Missus was buying up all the Haw in sight, I wandered into one of the courtyards, and watched this show for a spell....
And while there were many temptations, we knew there was a banquet on the horizon (actually four banquets in three days!), and had already decided to return when we could, we were looking for something filling yet light. So this shop seemed to fill the bill.
This little shop specialized in Won Ton Soup, with prices ranging from 5RMB for Veggie, Pork, or Three Treasures Won Ton Soup (that's about 75 cents), 6 RMB for Shrimp Won Ton Soup, and a whopping 7 RMB (about a buck) for Squid Qon Ton Soup!
As with all of these places..... you pay first!
While waiting the Missus ran out and got some Yang Rou Chuan (2 RMB each), since She saw the look in my eye when I passed the stand.....
Sorry to say, that even though these were well spiced, they lacked salt, weren't very gamey, and were quite tough.
Our Won Ton Soup however, was pretty easy to take.
The broth is mild and light, but there were a dozen won tons in each of our bowls.....
More than enough to fill us up.
All told, our lunch came out to 14 RMB, about two bucks......
As we walked out back to the street.......
We made plans to return, which we managed to do twice more during our stay in QingDao.
Soon enough, it was back to the street, and on yet another bus.... this time to meet the Missus's youngest cousin in QingDao's "new city", full of wide streets, huge hotels and resorts, business buildings, and skyscrapers....
And of course.... constant construction.
The Missus and Her cousin were headed to... where else, the mall, of course! After a shopping excursion, the three of us headed back to our hotel room, and after a short break, walked the couple of kilometers to the Hotel where the Missus's Second Aunt, and two cousins were staying. After a brief reunion at the hotel, we headed off to the banquet location, across the street.
Just a brief word on crossing the street in China, 1) Pedestrian's do not have the right of way, 2) Vehicles do not yield when making a right turn, 3) Now I know why Chinese like poker so much..... crossing the street, or driving itself seems to be a battle........ whomever has the most nerve will win. 4) In the US, we try to minimize risk.... in China they seem to play the odds! Like Fifth Uncle said, "you look six ways, and listen eight". Apparently, Second Aunt was a bit worried that I may have problems crossing the street..... so walking of the curb, she grabbed my arm to make sure I made it ok! You gotta love family......
I smiled as I walked to the banquet room in the rear of the restaurant. No matter which country you live in....... you'll know this was a Chinese Restaurant.
As folks poured in the atmosphere got quite festive..... photos, laughter, conversation. We were seated in the traditional manner..... the older generation on one table, the younger on the other. The Missus is the oldest of cousins, though the next is only a month younger. I liked cousin "LH" from the first time I met her.... she has a carefree spirit, a great sense of humor, with a touch of outrageousness that is contagious. LH told the Missus that she enjoyed taking photos with me since, I'm "very slimming".... Whenever she saw me taking photos of her, she would wave me over, telling me, "yes or no, yes or no...." Meaning she had first right of refusal on any photo I took..... I'd let her look at the photo, and if she approved ("yes") I'd move on... if not ("no"), the photo was deleted.
Now on to the food. First off, I only got shots of fourteen courses.... later on, I'd have help, everyone would make sure that I got my photos of the food! LH, "I dare not touch the food until 柯克 (my name in Chinese according to youngest cousin) takes his photo!" he-he-he......
You have to understand that we had four banquets in three days! If I went over every dish.... well, if you thought my three part post on Urasawa was long! I'll just go over the dishes we found the most delicious and/or interesting. Other then that, it's mostly photos.
Check out the papaya stuffed with almond jelly in the background.....
The braised bean curd was quite flavorful.
Who doesn't love deep fried pork chops.....
Check out the minced meat to be folded into the pancakes......
It was a delicious combination of sweet soy flavored pork belly mixed with this......
In Chinese this is called "Hai Chang" (海肠), literally "sea intestine" according to this site, it's also called "sea earthworm". My friends in Hawaii used to call it a "living poop shoot", a pest who messed up crab nets, here it's what's for dinner. It did add a nice slightly crunchy counter-point to the tender braised pork. As to taste, I'm not sure I could make out anything beyond the sweet-salty-porky flavor.
These "lamb pockets" were also delicious.......
Youngest cousin clapped her hands in joy when the Durian Pastry arrived.
Everyone got an individual dish with a quail egg and sea cucumber. This was the only steamed rice I had in QingDao, Beijing, or Jinan.
Surprisingly, I didn't miss rice at all.....
Man, this was some meal! But beyond the food, I was so delighted in the smooth and effortless way in which I was invited into this family...... The Missus had always said that folks "up North" are "straight-forward, but also friendly, generous, and fun." And She couldn't have been more correct. We rolled on out, and even though folks wanted to us to catch a cab, we decided to bus it back to the hotel, and in what would become a tradition, take a after dinner stroll to help us digest, both the meal and the moments we shared during the day.
The won ton soup was so cheap. Was it only won tons? No noodles?
Do you have any idea about the price range for the banquets that you've posted so far? It must differ in each city, too. It seems each banquet has over 20 courses!
I still have nightmares about crossing the street in Shanghai. The light turned green, but I could see an oncoming bus who had a red light, but he was NOT slowing down at all as he made the right turn. No way was I going to win the battle with a bus.
Posted by: Sandy | Thursday, 17 June 2010 at 09:06 AM
I've been waiting for more Chinese posts. Those banquet dishes look wonderful. I'm so hungry!
Posted by: ed (from Yuma) | Thursday, 17 June 2010 at 09:17 AM
The driving situation in China sounds like how it is in Taiwan. I'm terrified of crossing the streets in Taiwan and my cousins always hold my hand like I'm a child. The street food prices are so cheap. I love that.
Posted by: kirbie | Thursday, 17 June 2010 at 10:16 AM
scary crossing the streets! but what a great family gathering (and all that food)!
Posted by: kat | Thursday, 17 June 2010 at 04:36 PM
Now that's a banquet! When I first saw the haw jelly, I thought it might have been pork blood pudding. I've only had haw flakes as a kid, never tried the jelly. The wontons look like it had a decent amount of filling in them. Yum!
Posted by: Carol | Thursday, 17 June 2010 at 05:28 PM
Hi Sandy - Yes, it was Won Ton Soup, not Won Ton Noodle Soup. As for banquets, they run the gamut. You can get banquets as low as the equivalent of $10pp up to over $40+
Hi Ed - These posts take a bit more effort.....so they may not come daily.
Hi Kirbie - We got used to it in a while, it's nowhere as crazy a Vietnam was..... but in a way it seems more so.... because of all the cars and buses.
Hi Kat - Just think, this was the first of four!
Hi Carol - You know, I'm not a big fan of Haw Flakes.... but I changed my mind when I had them in China.... they taste much better.
Posted by: Kirk | Thursday, 17 June 2010 at 08:15 PM
I can't get over the no rice thing, white steamed rice is my mostest favorite thing to eat right after tortillas :o) ! Love the narrative and the photos, I don't know how you remember it all. Good Job!
Posted by: AZ | Friday, 18 June 2010 at 01:31 AM
wow, this post is fantastic, i can just taste all of the food and it is making me want to travel. The wonton soup in particular catches my eye.
Posted by: ali | Friday, 18 June 2010 at 03:04 AM
That was was alot of fun and eating.
The excitement and the energy from this post is contagious.I love haw remind me of my childhood with my grandparents never had the block but the flakes are yummy. Such a brown noser hehehehe I am guilty myself.
Posted by: bill | Friday, 18 June 2010 at 05:43 AM
As a haw flakes fan, I would love to try the haw jelly. I wonder if the jelly is sold in the US, say in SGV or SF?
Time to go buy a package of haw flakes.
Posted by: Sandy | Friday, 18 June 2010 at 07:51 AM
LOL AZ! The starches of choice are wheat based up North. Frankly, I don't think you'd miss rice very much.....
Hi Ali - Thanks, I'm glad you enjoyed the post.
Hi Bill - You Haw lover you.... We had a lot of fun.... maybe too much fun, as you'll later see in QingDao.
Hi Sandy - You know, we haven't looked. Next time we're in the SGV, I'll make sure to see if they have it.
Posted by: Kirk | Friday, 18 June 2010 at 09:50 PM
I am also very happy to be your friend at first sight, so many colorful photos with vivid words made deep impression on me. You are talent.
Posted by: Long Hui | Friday, 18 June 2010 at 10:58 PM
Great post Kirk but I must admit I did not know what Yang Rou Chuan was...had to look it up. Everything looks yummy so far but might have to pass on the hai chang worm thing....I would have to be super hungry for that
Posted by: Chris | Saturday, 19 June 2010 at 02:55 AM
Man, what a great blog! I just found this place after googling buta no kukani, and I really enjoyed that post as well as this one. The beautiful pictures and vivid descriptions are very inspiring - I'll be sure to check in more often =)
Posted by: Bryan Q | Saturday, 19 June 2010 at 05:34 PM
Hi Long Hui - Thanks so much for making me feel so welcomed..... I do need to visit Shenyang.... and get some Suan Cai Yang Rou!!!
Hi Chris - Sorry, I've mentioned Yang Rou Chuan so many times, that I just took it for granted that regular readers knew what it was!
Hi Bryan - Welcome, and thanks for taking the time out to comment. I'm glad you enjoy the blog..... and please, if you do try any of the recipes, let me know how it turned out for you! I'm always interested to know. Thanks again!
Posted by: Kirk | Sunday, 20 June 2010 at 01:01 PM
Kirk,
Awesome pics, looks like you had a fantastic family reunion with your in laws. Can't wait to see more.
Posted by: jeff c | Friday, 25 June 2010 at 01:10 PM
Hi Jeffrey - I hope you're doing well. It's really nice to hear from you. We did have a fabulous time.
Posted by: Kirk | Friday, 25 June 2010 at 06:15 PM