Luang Prabang: Dinner at Tamarind Part 2

The first half of dinner at Tamarind had already been quite an adventure, and though we didn't know it at the time, there was much more to come.

Next up was this Or Lam like stew. It lacked much of the bitter tones of Or Lam, and was fairly hearty, and studded with sticky rice, which probably contributed to the thickness of the broth.

   

The highlite of the soup were all the small frogs, which were fairly sweet. You ate the frogs whole, the bones were soft. The Missus loved the flavor of the frogs.....which She called "crab-like."

 

Next up was the plate that would probably be the most challenging for any Westerner.... yes, bugs!

Also on the plate were two large "Mok" - banana leaf wrapped items, and a eel that had been grilled in the typical Lao style.

 

The eel was hard.....like eating solid bone.

The large packet contained a flower that we had seen all through the Fresh Market, always surrounded by swarms of fruit flies...it must be really sweet.

   

It had been stuffed with pork, and was very, very tasty. Even better than Mok Pa, it literally melted in our mouths.

As we opened the next packet, Joy suddenly appeared and told us; "here in Luang Prabang, that is what you'll make for your children if you love them." So we opened up the packet.....

  

It tasted sweet, but was a bit "liver-y" for me. The Missus on the other hand loved this, calling it, "really rich, and almost like crab brains and eggs." I knew this was something from the organ/offal category. Can you guess what it is? This folks......was pig brains. Even though this was so rich She barely finished it, the Missus still smacks Her lips when I mention this.

Of course I know that you only really want to hear about the bugs......

The various critters really challenged you mentally rather than flavor-wise. The grasshopper were fairly nutty, the crickets a bit more gamey. I really, really enjoyed the tiny bugs that looked like small Cockroaches, as did that forest bug....they had a nice, almost floral flavor. The Missus didn't care for the Bee Larvae. You basically cracked open the hive, and larvae fell out to the plate.

 

I on the other hand loved the sweet, honey - floral flavor of the larvae. A quick dip into salt actually improved the sweetness.

 

The one bug that we didn't enjoy was this fella':

 

After removing the head, legs, wings, and hard shell, the squishy flesh had a mildly bitter, offal-like flavor.

The next plate (yes, yet another!) that arrived looked positively tame next to what we had just consumed. It looked very familiar to me.

 

It was a plate of herbs, spices, and other items, that would be wrapped in lettuce leaves, and dipped into the tangy tamarind based sauce and consumed. I've had a similar dish in various Thai Restaurants, where it's called Miang Khum.  Curious about this, I inquired, and found out it is a popular party appetizer in Luang Prabang. Unfortunately, I forgot to get the Lao name for this dish. Upon my return, I turned to David Thompson's awesome book Thai Food, where I found a listing for "Miang Lao". Thompson claims a Northern Thai origin for the dish, but notes that the version in the book is of Lao origin. I'm sure a few readers will chime in on this.

It was a nice palate cleansing end to the meal...in which we had finished several glasses of LaoLao and two containers of sticky rice each, in addition to all the food.

The Missus told me, "I wish we could squeeze in another meal here......." All the more reason to return.

The meal ended with a typical sticky rice confection, which reminded me of arare. I had already consumed an entire bag of this that I had purchased earlier, so I had no problem polishing these off.

As well strolled the one block back to our room, I reflected on all the amazing meals we've had over the last 2 years. Meals that had changed our opinions on food, from an amazing home made Cuy dinner in Cusco, to Astrid y Gaston in Lima. Roasted Sparrows at Highway 4 in  Hanoi and 10 courses of snake in Le Mat. A lunch with a touching toast at Can Cau Market, dinner with the guy with 2 wives in Bac Ha, learning that you should be "Happy Happy Everyday" in Siem Reap...and so many more. All of these meals (and many more)  have really added color to our lives. Thank you for honor of letting us share them with you all.

Comments

[sawyer]

nicely written post...wow you definitely ate everything there. and that plate of herbs/spices mix looks so refreshing and delicious. and those "small" frogs look pretty big to me haha

[kat]

man there were a lot of dishes that I don't know if I would have tried...thanks for sharing!

[Trent]

Great rundown! I guess if the good kids get the pig brain, the naughty ones get the other end.

[Kirk]

Hi Sawyer - It was a major "macro mode" photo! Those frogs were pretty tiny.

Hi Kat - I think you'd have tried them if you were there!

Hi Trent - LOL! The good kids get the pork brains.....the bad kids.....fried pork rectum! ;o)

[Wandering Chopsticks]

It's we who should be thanking you, Kirk! It's your openness to exploring so many cuisines and your vivid descriptions and your willingness to share it all that makes your blog so wonderful.

This meal would have been pretty challenging for me to enjoy from the whole frogs to the insects. Whooeee! Too much for me.

[Kirk]

Hi WC - Oh thanks so much, that's very kind of you! I honestly believe that if you were there, you'd have no problem eating this stuff....even fish poo!

[Beach]

After reading both of your Luang Prabang post. Nanimoku is down right "boring". I am not 100 % convince that I could eat what you have eaten. Man, that is impressive. I wish I was there. Maybe a few more year. Thanks for all the wonderful information.

[Kirk]

Hi Beach - I kinda know what you mean......I felt I had to finish this second part ASAP. You'd have no problem with this...at all.

[Masa Assassin]

I love this stuff Kirk I'm not sure if Id go for that last critter, but I've had my share of insects. The grasshoppers look way bigger and different then the Oaxacan grasshoppers I'm familar with. Never had bee larvae, but Im curious now. Great stuff thanks for sharing.

[foodhoe]

wow, great fun as usual kirk! I grew up near a creek and am familiar with the various stages from frogspawn to tadpole to tiny frog and I couldn't for the life of me see frog in that stew, so I'm assuming it was still more tadpoley?

[Michelle]

Oh...my...GOD! THis is awesome! I love frogs but I don't know if I can take the larvae and the spiky bugs =) Do they offer a more "toned-down" meals without the bugs? I have been following this series for awhile and had a mental check "yup, I can eat that!" for all items you've eaten so far. Until the bugs hit the table...hehehe..

This blog is just wonderful Kirk =)

[Kirk]

Hi MA - Tamarind does a nice job....that beetle was just a bit much for me.

Hi FH - In that close-up of the bowl, the little frog is upside down....it was a grown frog. I should've done a better job with the "photo-op". Hopefully I'll get another chance.

Hi Michelle - This is the most "adventurous" thing Tamarind does. Most everything else are more like the dishes I made in cooking class, or traditional Lao BBQ's and such. If you ever get to LP, please check them out!

[Carol]

Was that a Rhinoceros beetle? Whew, I know you say if I was there, I'd probably try everything but not sure I can do some of those bugs, especially cockroach looking ones. But I would definitely try the pig brain. Oink-oink

[elmomonster]

Zimmern's got nothin' on you! Frogs legs I've had, but whole bite-sized frogs?! Egads! This was a fascinating read!

[Kirk]

Hi Carol - Yes it was..... oink-oink to you as well! ;o)

Hi Elmo - I dunno, I think this is just everyday food for some.....quite different for us though.

[Dennis]

This was all so very beautiful Kirk. I know I'll be appreciating it even more as I learn more about the culture and cuisine. Thanks again. Cheers,

[Kirk]

Hi Dennis - I think you'd love Laos.....

[nhbilly]

Thanks for sharing your passion for food. That was awesome I hope to travel and experience the joy of eating ;-)

[Kirk]

Hi Billy - Thanks so much! Hope things are going well for you in SA!