More from Salvador: Cabañas Four

Who knows what Kirk and Cathy are eating today, but ed (from Yuma) is writing about a place he eats at almost every week.

*** I am saddened to write that Pupuseria Cabanas is no more. One of the few cases of a restaurant doomed by its success. At least as I have heard it, the landlord was getting complaints from the towing/repair shop next door that there was no place to park during the day because the pupuseria had too many customers. Lucia was not allowed to be open weekdays, and then on Nov. 1, the restaurant was empty with no sign about another location etc. I will update if (I hope, when) she has relocated ***  :-(

I know some of you were wondering why Pupusaria Cabañas all the way over in Yuma, Arizona, is worth another post (for previous post, click here) at mmm-yoso. All I can say is that this little family restaurant serves some of the best and most interesting food of any kind in town. And this is food made with love.

While only a few dishes (like pupusas and chicken tamales) are available every day from the small kitchen, the variation of specials hroughout the week provides a lot of choices for us hungry locals. One example is a great new dish sometimes featured on Fridays, tortitas de camerones. First, about the name. Few words have more and more confusing meanings across the range of Spanish speaking countries than torta and its dimunatives, such as tortilla and tortita. Just to take an example. We all know what a tortilla is in Mexico (or in the United States). On the other hand, in Argentina it is like a thick patty or cake made with eggs and potatoes. Kind of like an omelette, but not like an omelette all. The sort of staple dish that an Argentine like Jorge Luis Borjes  missed even when he was visiting Paris. You can see the Salvadoran tortita is closer to the Argentinian dish:

 At Cabañas, this a savory egg patty is brimming with tender, juicy shrimp. The exterior crust contrasts nicely with the soft eggy interior. I much prefer this version to Mexican tortas de cameron, which are egg patties made with salty dried shrimp, a dish redeemed (to my taste) only by the red chili sauce and strips of nopalitos that cover the dish. 

 Another Friday special is often sopa de pescado, a fishy flavored broth with vegetables and sizable fillets of catfish:

 Recently on a Saturday, I revisited the beef rib soup, and found it even better than previously, as the beef is now perfectly tender and complements the savory broth and numerous vegetables well:

Wednesdays feature bean soups of various kinds. Every one that I have tasted has ranked as one of the best bean soups I have ever eaten, and I have made and eaten many bean soups in my lifetime. The last one I ate may be the best of all:

 The name for this wonderful concoction is sopa de frijoles rojo con costilla de puerco, red bean soup with pork ribs. The broth was as deeply flavored as it is deeply colored. Pork ribs make a muy rico soup stock as well. In addition, this soup was served with two tortillas and a plate of various sides:
I am not sure what specials happen on Mondays, but Tuesdays seem to feature chicken soup and Sundays are graced by sopa de pata, Salvadoran Menudo accompanied with cow hoof. Trust me, this favorite of mine tastes so much better than it sounds and is full of tendon, tripe, and vegetables:

 As business has picked up, and it has, more items have been added to the regular menu. Most days, beef stew, called here carne asada, and guisado de pollo (chicken stew) are featured. While the chicken is not always cooked to disintegration, as it was the afternoon I took this picture, the guisado always has a rich tomato flavor and is accompanied by decent rice and a tomato and salad garnish:

Although the agua fresca ensalada (mixed fruit drink with chopped fruits) is the most common homemade beverage here, I have also had excellent tamarindo and the slightly sour arrayan water. The horchata, here spiced with nutmeg, is especially good, thick, and rich:

One other beverage option exists. The nice folks at the restaurant allow customers to bring beer or wine to enjoy with dinner. While there is no stemware available, there is also no corkage fee, so we winos can enjoy our favorite beverage with outstanding Salvadoran cuisine, all at a bargain price:

 One small note -- in one post I mentioned that I could taste banana leaf in the wonderful chicken tamales, but then saw that the tamales were wrapped in tinfoil for steaming. It was only when I later saw the banana leaf inside the tinfoil that I understood why my eyes and my taste buds were conflicted.

Anyway, if you are close to Yuma and hungry, and if it isn't Thursday when the restaurant is closed, let me recommend a trip to Pupuseria Cabañas. Your mouth will be happy.

Pupuseria Cabanas reopened in September 2009 after being closed for a month. They have new hours: Open breakfast to dinner Saturdays and Sundays, and open at 5 PM all weekdays. Don't know if this is just temporary, but that is the schedule for now. I missed this place for a month

Pupuseria Cabañas, 3405 8th St, Yuma AZ, (928) 782-1874

Comments

[Louise]

I've only been to Yuma once, but this commentary and the beautiful photos **really** make we (almost) want to drive there. At least I have a friend living there that I can alert to this restautant. Thanks Ed!!

[jeff c]

Ed,
Salvadoran pupusas were introduced to me by way of being hungry and finding a local pupuseria near my office. The guy was operating this was from El Salvador and made wonderful agua fresca ensalada with the little bush cherries that are so like small citrusy flavor. wonderful stuff. His pupusas he served with much pride and with a wonderful cabbage relish.
His range wasn't quite as good as your places but the food was quite delicious.

[ed (from Yuma)]

Louise, tell your friends, but warn them that the place is tiny and seedy looking - but always clean.

Pupusas are what initially led me to the place, jeff, but the soups are what bring me back almost every week. I believe I have had an agua fresca ensalada with that bush cherry (I think I mention it in the first or second post on this place).

[foodhoe]

Ed, I'm with Louise and am only wondering why I haven't been to this pupuseria yet. This and some of your other posts about the very delicioso looking regional dishes in Yuma makes me think about hightailing it over for some home cooking looking meals!

[bill]

That looks so goooooood.

[Ken]

Ed: If you like Salvadorean food and happen to be on the I-10, you can take a detour to Desert Hot Springs to Mi Riconcito Salvadoreano. A tiny place in a strip mall on the main road into DHS (next to an Albertsons I think). Tasty food. When we ate there a couple of years ago, it was only patronized by Salvadoreans.

[ed (from Yuma)]

Ken, thanks for the tip. Cabanas has almost entirely Salvadoran clentele as well. In fact, I didn't know how many Salvadorans were in Yuma.

Thanks for the kind words, bill and fh.