The Missus was craving some Larb for lunch. This sounded like a mission for our own guardian angel in Vientiane, Ai from the Lao Orchid Hotel. Just as with previous queries, Ai grabbed a few of her cronies in a semi-huddle, made a couple of calls, and came up with the result; Nang Kham Bang Restaurant, which just happened to be 2 blocks away. After walking right past it twice, we stopped, and actually read a sign for a change....... you just know I wasn't going to ask for directions.....
The interior is kind of odd. It is divided in half by glass; one part of the restaurant is air-conditioned, the other half is not.
The menu, itself was a conglomeration of interesting dishes like stuffed frog legs. The clientele, was all Lao. We learned how to identify a "real" Lao (as in places where Lao folks actually eat), by this:
Why the sink? Well, if you think about it, the required item for meals is:
Sticky rice. And the most important eating instrument is....well...your hand. So washing your hands right outside of the doorway makes complete sense.
The first thing to arrive was a plate of greens, veggies, and herbs:
We were to find that it was typical to find a plate of green beans, and other items provided to accompany your meal. The most interesting item on the plate were these little eggplants.
We started with some Stir Fried Morning Glory:
This was not as good, as the version we had eaten the previous night. These were rather tough, and strangely, on the bland side.
Next up, Beef Laap(Laap Sin):
This had a nice balance of sour and spicy flavors, with a mild nuttiness brought on by the roasted rice powder. Not much in the way of beefy flavor, and as we found throughout our travels in SEA, the beef was on the chewy side.
We also ordered the Papaya Salad (Tam Mak Hung):
Nice and balanced sweet and sour flavors, I have a feeling they went easy on us in the spicy department. Crisp and refreshing, this was probably in the top three with regards to Papaya Salads on this trip.
Of course, it wouldn't be a meal without some comic relief from the mmm-bozo! When the veggies arrived, the Young Man serving us pointed at some chilies, and warned us by saying "ka-boom", and miming a mushroom cloud rising from what would be his now shattered cranium with his hands. No need for the ol' skull-and-crossbones sign here, we understood....
You know of course, we paid no heed to the young man's warning. The Missus and I both sampled a pepper. "KA-BOOM" is an understatement. Lucky for me, having had some experience with chilies, I didn't let my lips get involved, so you wouldn't find me lying face down in a pool of cerebral spinal fluid, nor would I be picking pieces of cranium and grey matter out of my papaya salad, but this stuff was pretty potent. The Missus turned several colours, red, sweaty grey, then pale white, as She told me She could feel the pepper burning a trail down Her esophagus, and into Her stomach. God only knew what tomorrow was going to bring. I think we've had our share of spicy food...but man this was hot!!!
Later when asked about this place, Ai told me that the local folks with "money".... i.e. who can afford to, eat here. It did turn out to be a nice refreshing meal for under $10/US. And knowing not what the Missus had planned for later that day (after my little midafternoon nap, of course), I'd probably end up needing some "refreshing"......
Nang Kham Bang Restaurant
Khoun Boulum St.
Vientiane, Lao PDR
lol! Ka-Boom! Was the server watching to see if you would try it? I think I would have been in tears from the heat. The papaya salad looks delicious!
Posted by: Carol | Tuesday, 02 December 2008 at 08:35 AM
My ears started getting hot when I read about those peppers. I love how its hotness was communicated! KABOOM! HAHAHA!
And for a second, I thought those were quail eggs.
Posted by: elmomonster | Tuesday, 02 December 2008 at 08:55 AM
I guess if a native is warning you it's hot, then it must be so... another great memorable meal!
Posted by: foodhoe | Tuesday, 02 December 2008 at 11:59 AM
ka-boom...gotta remember this when I explain hot to Satoshi :)
Posted by: kat | Tuesday, 02 December 2008 at 03:07 PM
Hi Carol - That papaya salad was very good. I don't think the server was watching.... but wouldn't have blamed him if he did...
Hi Elmo - I actually poked at those eggplants when they arrived. I initally thought they were quail eggs too!
Hi FH - Yes, we tend to learn the hard way.....
Hi Kat - Yes, Ka-Boom, is the new flavor.... sweet-sour-salty-bitter...and Ka-boom. ;o)
Posted by: Kirk K | Tuesday, 02 December 2008 at 05:37 PM
I think I need one of those sinks for when I make my poor man's sushi and when I eat Indian food. They say that the "hands" are the best utensils! I hope you had a great Thanksgiving Kirk (and the Missus and the Boyz too)!
Posted by: Passionate Eater | Tuesday, 02 December 2008 at 05:56 PM
Ka-scary.....I'm a weakling of spice I would sweat if I was in a sauna.
Posted by: nhbilyl | Tuesday, 02 December 2008 at 06:03 PM
Heh heh heh. Larb. The name of that dish always cracks me up. I'm such a dork.
Posted by: Chubbypanda | Tuesday, 02 December 2008 at 07:10 PM
Hi PE - Welcome back! Yes, nothing like eating with your hands...
Hi Billy - It was very hot...
Hi CP - My goodness.... I still think Bi Chay is more funny, though....
Posted by: Kirk | Wednesday, 03 December 2008 at 07:28 PM
Hi Kirk!
Oh man, I just paid $4.50 for my morning coffee here in NYC - and to think that you could get all that food for less that $10! ^_^
Posted by: Kathy | Thursday, 04 December 2008 at 06:43 AM
Hi Kathy - And this is considered expensive by Lao standards!
Posted by: Kirk | Thursday, 04 December 2008 at 08:39 AM
Kirk,
I grow those little white eggplants. When I had them laying out on the table, my parents thought they were eggs from my hens.
They are white and are quite bitter even after soaking and repeated salting/rinsing. I haven't figured out how to use them yet. I think I prefer the Japanese aubergines for their milder flavor.
Posted by: Jeffrey C | Friday, 05 December 2008 at 07:48 AM
Hi Jeffrey - They weren't too bad with a bit of chili-fish sauce, but then again, Lao people love bitter flavors. I'll delve a bit into that in a future post.
Posted by: Kirk | Friday, 05 December 2008 at 06:28 PM