Everyone likes a good story, one full of intrigue, right? So how about a story of riches, a far away land, some mystery, and with Mom's love thrown in to tie it all together? Well, let's give it a whirl, shall we?
There I was, minding my own business.....I know, I know, you've heard that one before. But really, there I was minding my own business on a recent Saturday night. As I left Nijiya Market, groceries in tow.....yes, such is the glamorous life I lead, grocery shopping on a Saturday night. Leaving Nijiya, I noticed that the space previously occupied by Yakitori K-1, was lit up, and as I peered through the window, the place was packed.
There was not much to identify the place, except for a sign of "specials", and several laminated photos with wording in Japanese. I was immediately hooked, but I really wanted to do a bit of research before stepping through that door. Questions danced through my head; "what kind of place would open up, flying way below the radar?" "No signs in English, what would that mean?" "Why haven't I heard of this place before?" Hence the mystery......put in simple terms, what the heck was this place? I needed to know more....so what would a good Private Eye do? Well, I started interviewing people. From 2 different cashiers at Nijiya, I learned a bit. They weren't quite sure how to explain the type of restaurant in English. Until it hit home; when I mentioned the term "Kozara Ryori", I was met with approving nods. Both of the women had never been to the restaurant, and one of them said; "I think it might be the most expensive in San Diego!" And then She whispered to me, "when you go, come back and tell me about it." For those who have never heard of Kozara Ryori dining, the term "Kozara" refers to the little plates that are used. So the term Kozara Ryori, is used for restaurants that serve "little plates".....sort of Tapas, Japanese style. (No, Izakaya is NOT a term used for Japanese little dishes). And from another source, I was told that the Owner was a rich (the riches) Japanese Businessman, who was unhappy with the Japanese food in San Diego, and decided to find and hire a Chef from Japan (the far away land). Wanting this restaurant to be his own little semi-private dining club, but also needing to make enough to keep it afloat, the place opened with no fanfare, and the sign still read "Yakitori K-1". I'm not sure if this is all true, but it makes for a heck of a story.....
Having a better understanding of the task in front of me, I knew I was out of my depth. I needed some help, an individual with deep pockets, and an even deeper stomach. There was only one man for the job, my Urasawa Partner in Crime. The man, the myth, the appetite, Captain Jack. Jack, as always, was up for anything, and met me for dinner, at the restaurant whose sign still read "Yakitori K-1"
We arrived right at opening, 530pm, so that we could deal with possible complications. Places are less crowded at that hour. As we approached, I really took a detailed look at the sign of specials.
No, I don't read Japanese; but I quickly noticed the prices....hmmmm....everything under $5.25. Looks like it won't be too bad. I'll have to tell the lady at Nijiya......
The restaurant is elegant, in the simple, and what Captain Jack calls "austere", Japanese way. As we sat at the "bar", we quickly noticed the specials are lined up around the bar in large bowls.
And there is an English version of the menu....even though there are several other specials in Japanese, you'll have no problem maneuvering here. The restaurant itself is quite small, and the fairly large menu consists of appetizers, salads, side dishes, grilled items, and the inevitable "closing dishes" (i.e. soup, soba, and udon). The prices are quite in line with other places.....
As I looked over the bowls of specials, a smile appeared on my face. Most of the items were homestyle dishes, many of which I grew up eating, and still make from time to time in my own mediocre way. And so I started ordering, and really appreciated the wonderful service that Nanase provided....She actually put up with my very bad Sansei pronunciations of the dishes.
We started with some simmered Satoimo Nimono (simmered Japanese taro):
Oh man, memories of my childhood. Nicely simmered to a perfect moist-starchiness, in a mild dashi-based broth. This was, at least for me, quite nice.
Kabocha Nimono, simmered "winter squash" also known as "Kabocha Squash" and "Japanese Pumpkin".
I dare not even attempt to cook my Kabocha to this level...it would never hold shape. Melt in your mouth, but maybe a bit too soft for me. Wonderful flavor, the mild sweetness accented by the balanced dashi.
The Daikon and Tuna Salad:
The only real clunker of the night...ugh....canned tuna...mayo...belongs at the buffet line at Todai.
Having tasted the Kabocha and Satoimo, something told me that the Miso Nasubi(Eggplant) might be pretty good.
I really enjoyed this. The miso was used with a very restrained hand, there was the hint of miso in every bite, but you could still taste the eggplant. The eggplant was simmered to perfection, just enough melt in your mouth goodness, without a hint of bitterness. A very nice home-style dish, and my favorite of the "specials".
For our salad; we ordered this:
It's the Gobo Salad ($5.25). I was a bit surprised at the portion size. The Gobo (burdock root) had been shaved and deep fried. The Gobo and the Mizuna was tied together with a Sesame-Vinaigrette, which added a nice tart-sweetness, and the wonderful earthiness of the Gobo was balanced out with the mild bitterness of the Mizuna. This was possibly my favorite dish of the night.
Would you believe that we had just gotten started? I'm bushed, so you'll have to wait for part 2 of this.....
Just read the little page to the right. There are little signs around the place, signed, "Yours Sincerely, Mom." And who doesn't love Mom? So how about adding this to the little story. A rich Japanese Businessman, misses his Mom's home cooking, and the comfort food of home. He hires a Chef from Japan to recreate those seasonal dishes he loves, and quietly opens a restaurant....... Could it be true??? I dunno........
Wa Dining Okan
3860 Convoy St
San Diego, CA 92111
Hours:
Mon - Wed 530-11pm
Thurs - Sat 530pm - 12am
Sun 430pm - 9pm
Part 2 can be found here.
sore wa, omoshiroii des ne!!
Seems I used to have to travel to LA for my kozara ryori. I always had the feeling this would do well in SD. Kirk- see you there!
My place in LA:
http://www.yelp.com/biz/bar-hayama-los-angeles
Posted by: Chris | Friday, 05 September 2008 at 01:01 AM
I don't have a Japanese Mom but man I would love to be there to eat! *sniff* My mouth is so watering right now, and I just ate. I haven't braved any of the japanese restaurants here in Germany, but I might have to scope some out. :)
Posted by: milgwimper | Friday, 05 September 2008 at 03:29 AM
Hi Chris - This is more home-style Kozara, and not as seafood heavy as Bar Hayama, or European infuenced as Orris. Just good Japanese comfort food.
Hi Mills - I'd be interested in what you can "scope out" in your part of the world. Everyone can use a Japanese Mom or Grandmother.....
Posted by: Kirk | Friday, 05 September 2008 at 07:26 AM
This sounds wonderful! When you first described it to me, I thought it would be more intimidating (like the Chula Vista sushi nazi). I can't wait to try it.
Posted by: howie | Friday, 05 September 2008 at 09:13 AM
This looks really good. I'd wondered what happened to Yakitori K-1, not that we ever went there but I no longer saw kids loitering out there when I went to Nijiya.
I'm looking forward to part 2.
Posted by: Lynnea | Friday, 05 September 2008 at 09:15 AM
Looking forward to part 2. Everything, especially the salad looks great!
Posted by: sharon | Friday, 05 September 2008 at 09:40 AM
you cant do that!!! dont leave me hangin! PART 2! PART 2! PART 2! :)
Posted by: Judy | Friday, 05 September 2008 at 10:11 AM
Amazing - and most of those dishes look so down home - just not my home.
Just what I need, another place I gotta try next time I'm over there.
Posted by: ed (from Yuma) | Friday, 05 September 2008 at 10:21 AM
Thanks for the shout out brudda :)
Posted by: Captain Jack | Friday, 05 September 2008 at 10:21 AM
Hi Howie - When I first started hearing about this place, i was a bit concered too...which is why I included CJ! ;o)
Hi Lynnea - I think you'd really enjoy this.
Hi Sharon - For me, the salad was my favorite dish....and you'd very rarely ever have me admit something like that!
Hi Judy - Sorry..... But this place is pretty accessable, and not as expensive as I thought it would be. So maybe you can check it out as well!
Hi ED - LOL! The list is getting pretty darn long....add in Sab-E-Lee and this place...I think you've got some catching up to do!
Hi CJ - Thanks for finishing off that tuna salad! ;o)
Posted by: Kirk | Friday, 05 September 2008 at 10:35 AM
Thanks, Kirk. Can't wait to try it. You're such a tease, making us wait for part two. LOL
When I read this, I thought of a place way down in Chula Vista on Oxford. Don't know the name.
I wonder if Howie's Chula Vista Sushi Nazi is the same place? Even when its open, its dark. My dad and I tried to go in once, and this lady ran to the door saying we're closed, we're closed, even though you could see lots of people at the tables.
Posted by: stephen | Friday, 05 September 2008 at 10:45 AM
Hi Stephen - sorry to be such a tease! ;o) I was pooped last night...and thought the post was already quite long. As for the place...I'm sure it's Kaga-zushi....
Posted by: Kirk | Friday, 05 September 2008 at 10:58 AM
Hi Kirk, I've been here twice and really like the atmosphere and food so far. I don't eat out for dinner much though so haven't been back.
I think they're still in the process of getting their liquor license but they are cool with byob from Nijiya next door until then, haha.
Posted by: Dennis | Friday, 05 September 2008 at 11:23 AM
Kirk,
I'm in suspense here! I love hidden places like this and the prices all seem very reasonable. That gobo salad looks awesome. Bet I could live to 100 if I ate that. ;)
What would you translate as izakaya then? Tavern/bar food? I've seen some people compare it to tapas. Hence, the small dishes analogy.
Posted by: Wandering Chopsticks | Friday, 05 September 2008 at 12:13 PM
Sounds almost like Vietnamese style com phan small dish eaten with rice. It is so home cooking I miss it.
Posted by: nhbilly | Friday, 05 September 2008 at 02:25 PM
Kirk,
This reminds me of those really great "little bit of heart" cinema stories that I love to watch on Japanese television.
I think one of the strongest flavorings in food is sentimentality especially if Mom is involved. I'm glad you found a place that can evoke that. Its to be treasured.
The pumpkin and taro dishes looked like they were just delicious. I hope to try it out whenever I can get to San Diego.
Posted by: jeff c | Friday, 05 September 2008 at 06:12 PM
Hi Dennis - I believe they have their liqour license....several sake's available - as you'll find in part 2. This stuff is comfort food for me.....stuff I was riased on.
Hi WC - For me, an Izakaya is a drinking establishment that provides food to accompany the booze....lot's of grilled and fried items. I know the lines are quite blurred, especially since many think of Izakaya's here to be places to eat....I thought about trying to finish the post...but we ate so much, and I was soooo tired.
Hi Billy - Nothing like home cooking....the charm of this place is that you can get a good variety of items that would take a good bit of time at home.
Hi Jeffrey - Yes, the power of comfort food....just think Ratatouille.
Posted by: Kirk | Friday, 05 September 2008 at 11:17 PM
that's a great tale of mystery and adventure! my favorite kind of restaurant, under the radar and the menu is signed, yours sincerely, mom... how cool is that? can't wait to hear about the rest of the meal!
Posted by: foodhoe | Saturday, 06 September 2008 at 03:16 PM
Hi FH - Thanks.....it was a fun meal!
Posted by: Kirk | Saturday, 06 September 2008 at 07:18 PM