Ma Po Tofu (Ma Po Dou Fu)

In the comments of my post on Peng's Homestyle Bean Curd, KevinK asked if I'd make some Ma Po Dou Fu, Chongqing-style. Now I'm not sure if this is Chongqing style, but I think it turned out fairly good. According to the Missus; "hey, this is not too bad." Translation: "This is one of the best things you've made in a while. You better be able to duplicate it!"

First, let's clarify a few things. First, there must be thousands of different versions of this dish; I've seen it in everything from Muslim Chinese to Japanese Restaurants. In fact, Chopstix has a version they call Mabo Ramen, a very sweet, soy laden ground meat dish. But if I'm having the real deal, there are 2 things I always look for; a nice layer of red, spicy oil, and this:

The legend regarding this dish is well known, though I've read at least 3 variations. For me, the "Ma" stands for "numbing", which can only be provided by Sichuan Peppercorns. And for me, any place serving a classic rendition of this dish must use Sichuan Peppercorns.

This recipe is based on the version in Fuchsia Dunlop's Land of Plenty. I've made a few changes. Since the Missus wanted this vegetarian, I eschewed the ground meat. In most cases, the meat is ground pork, but in Land of Plenty, Ms. Dunlop notes that in Sichuan, the traditional recipe calls for Ground Beef, which is pretty unique. No stock, meant increasing a few ingredients, and adding a few. I added Chinkiang Black Vinegar, minced garlic, and grated ginger, all of which added depth to the dish. I wasn't able to find any Pixian Chili Bean Paste, or Chili Bean Paste made with Broad Beans, which has a much better flavor than the stuff made with soy beans. I ended up adding twice the amount of bean paste to adjust. I also used scallions instead of leeks. One last thing, I knew we had tofu in the frig, I just didn't realize that it was firm bean curd, I'd have preferredsoft tofu. So here it is:

Ma Po Dou Fu (The Pock-marked Old Woman's Bean Curd)

1 Block Bean Curd
2-3 Scallions cut in "Horse Ear" slices
2/3 Cup Canola Oil
4 Tb Sichuan Chili Bean Paste
1 Tb Fermented Black Beans, rinsed
2 Tb Ground Red Chilies
1 1/2 Cup Water
2-3 Tb Sugar
3 Tb Light Soy Sauce
2 Cloves Garlic minced
2 Tsp Grated Ginger
Salt to taste
Chili Oil to Taste
3 Tb Cornstarch mixed in 4 Tb Cold Water
1 Tsp Ground Roasted Sichuan Peppercorn

1 - Cut bean curd in to 1" by 1" cubes, and steep in simmering water.

2 - Heat oil in a wok over medium heat. When oil shimmers add bean paste and ground chilies and stir fry until oil turns red in color. Add Fermented Black Beans, Ginger, and Garlic and stir fry for about 30 seconds, until oil is fragrant.

3 - Pour in stock and stir well.

4 - When mixture is simmering, drain bean curd and add to mixture. Mix carefully, using the back of your wok scoop to push bean curd.

5 - Add 2Tb sugar, vinegar and soy sauce. Mix carefully, and taste. Add salt, chili oil(if desired), and more sugar if necessary.

6 - Simmer until the bean curd is well coated in the sauce, and has absorbed the flavor.

7 - Add scallions

8 - With mixture simmering add cornstarch mixture a little at a time until the sauce has thickened  to the desired texture.

9 - Serve in a bowl, topped with ground Sichuan Peppercorns.

There you go Kevin, I hope it meets with your approval!

Comments

[Derek Ray]

Krik that looks amazing. When I lived in China back in 05 Mapo Tofu was one of if not my favorite dish to eat. I would go to the lady who made it the day before so she could get fresh tofu for the day. I look forward to trying this one out.

Also do you have a favorite place in SD to get Mapo Tofu?

Thanks for sharing!

-Derek

[nhbilly]

Never seen it this way before. Almost like making Korean soondobu.

[dave]

this looks good. i have a question, though. i went shoppng for some ingredients recently to vien dong in order to make something i read on tigers & strawberries. i could not find sichuan peppercorns. i looked all over that dang store, and ended up just using black peppercorns i had at home. is this something they should obviously have at vien dong, or am i missing something fundamental, like viern dong is mostly vietnamese foodstuffs and not chinese so i should look elsewhere? i am getting better at the asian grocery shopping, but am still clueless sometimes. i had a heck of a time finding fermented black beans, too. i did find those eventually (at least i think so, i got 'salted black beans', which i think are the same).

[Kirk]

Hi Derek - Like everything I make, this one is very easy. I like Ba Ren's Mapo Dou Fu, so you may want to try it there, though I haven't had it in a while.

Hi Billy - Way less sour, though. In fact, quite different...the layers of heat is quite different.

Hi Dave - I last bought Sichuan Peppercorns from 99 Ranch Market - go to the isle with seasonings. It is, or was on the bottom shelf, about halfway doen the isle - package says "Pepper Corns" on it...it may also say Prickly Ash...looks like dried tiny little buds. I'm hoping that the Fermented Black Bean you bought came in a cardboard "cannister", sort of like a small Quaker Oats container...the stuff I've bought from those plastic bags was pretty lousy. Good luck, and let me know if I may be of more assistance.

[kat]

mmm, I'm coming over with my bowl(s) of rice :)

[Carol]

I'm right behind Kat with chopsticks in hand. I sure miss my Mom's version of this dish. She liked to add a little ground pork because she said it added "xiang wei" (umami). Me, I'll take almost any version.

[janfrederick]

Dave beat me to it. Thanks Kirk! Now I know how to get my numb on at home.

[Kirk]

hi Kat - I'll have a bowl wating! ;o)

Hi Carol - Yes, I had to compensate for the lack of meat products by adding or increasing a few items.

Hi Jan - For some reason the phrase "numb on" combined with JanFrederick makes me afraid....very afraid.

[howie]

This is one of my all-time favorite dishes, both to eat and cook. Your version looks a lot better than mine though!

[Jeff C]

Kirk, I've thought of a variation using stinky tofu. It would be similar to the Ma La Huo Guo or hot pot style. Now that stinky tofu is actually available in some Asian markets,and a fairly good quality and taste. What do you think of using stinky tofu?
Some people have said its like 10 day old gym socks left to percolate in a pressure cooker with horse sweat. I find the taste intoxicating.
Cheers
Jeff

[Kirk]

Hi Howie - I know this is not PC, but unless it starts with at least 1/3 cup of oil..... ;o) BTW, I'm sure you're being a tad modest there!

Hi Jeffrey - That taste may be intoxicating, but the smell would be "putrifying." I do hope that you have a really, really good ventilation system. The Missus might just go for it....but it ain't happening in my kitchen!

[jeff c]

Kirk, another thought. I find the quality of the sichuan peppercorns to be fairly inferior. For some reason, they don't have the ma qualities that you usually can get in the restaurants. Conjecture says that it is because of the sterilization process for the biologic control to make the peppercorns safe for the US or that we get the old inferior stuff and all the good stuff is used in Sichuan.
I use the sichuan peppercorn infused oils to cook and also flavor mustard greens and pak choi. The combinations make for extremely fragrant dishes.

[Kirk]

Hi Jeffrey - I think it's a combination of both....I end up using 2-3 times the amount in the recipe. Also, some of the stuff loses its pungency quickly, and I stay away from it if it looks like it has been sitting on the shelves a bit too long.

[Chubbypanda]

Kirk,

That recipe brought tears to my eyes, probably because I could feel the heat through my screen. Just the way I like my mapo tofu!

[Kirk]

Hi CP - Nice to hear from you, I hope all is well. I'm sure you make a pretty mean version of this.

[Pete]

Ahhhhhh, so that was the missing element: A LOT OF OIL in the beginning!!!!

Thanks!

[Kirk]

Hi Pete - LOL! You can cut the oil in half if you want. The main thing is to develop what oil you have, and mix with the bean paste, chili paste, and black bean - BTW, use paste made with "broad beans", I've just found a pretty good brand. I think I need to do a version 2 of this.

[ed (from Yuma)]

OMG, this is a good recipe. I finally got around to making it, and even with my clumsy cookery, I ended up with the best mapo tofu I've ever eaten.

You are right about the black beans in the yellow Quaker Oats type package. They are superb.

Thanks, blogdog, for the recipe!

[Kirk]

Hi Ed - Amazingly easy, isn't it? I'm glad you enjoyed the Ma Po Doufu....I've got a lead on some really good Sichuan Hot Bean Paste, so hopefully I'll find some time to follow-up on it.