Hanoi: Banh Gio - It's what's for breakfast, and a first taste of Northern Pho Bo

In Hanoi, street food stalls, or more appropriately stools are everywhere. You can find Banh My, Banh Cuon, Chao, and all sorts of food on literally every street corner....it is easy to get overwhelmed.

On our first morning, while walking down Hang Tre, on the corner of Pho Lo Su we came across a woman selling Banh Gio:

 

One look, and a single sniff of the steamed banana leaf wrapped, rice flour cake, stuffed with minced pork and cloud ear fungus, and the Missus was sold.

The Lady serving this hot and hearty food was very warm and friendly...always smiling, and a pretty good business woman, on subsequent trips, she remembered how we liked our Banh Gio....upon unwrapping our Banh Gio, she'd provide a splash of chili sauce, Maggi, and a few strips of julienned ginger.

 

We ended up having the Banh Gio(5,000 VND - a shade over 30 cents US) here for the 3 mornings we were in Hanoi.

This woman was obviously very social.....the second and third times we visited we sat on the little children's stools, no one manning the table, and about a minute later the lady would come jogging up, she had been visiting with other people down the street.....always with the biggest smile you could imagine.

 

Vietnamese God has a post on Banh Gio found here.

An article on various "Banh" can be found here.

Pho Bo at Pho Thin.

I had been warned off the Pho Bo in Hanoi by several people; everyone from Beach to the Dry Cleaning Lady had told me not to bother. But since I'd never had "Northern Pho", I decided that I needed to try it. And after passing these pots on the way back to the hotel, and seeing the name of the place; Pho Thin, I decided to grab a bowl after having the Banh Gio. I had read and been told that the preferred location of Pho Thin Bo Ho(per the article in Vietnam Cultural Window, the name means Mr Thin's Pho Restaurant) is on Lo Duc Street, but since we were here on Hang Tre.....

I just kinda sauntered up to the place, and the kindly older gentleman smiled, I pointed, he nodded, and off to work they went....

I'm not sure if they are of any relation to the original Chef Thin......

My Pho Tai Chin(15,000 VND - just under a buck US):

The bowl arrived super hot(a common theme in VN & Cambodia - I think it's really great for health reasons). As I normally do for any bowl of soup, I tasted the broth first....other than a mild hint of scallion and black pepper, it was fairly bland. There was just a scant shaving of well cooked beef and rare beef cooked in the broth. This broth, flavored with the "breath of a cow" needed fish sauce and the provided lime. I added some of the orange colored chilies, which we really enjoyed.....in addition to the heat, there was a nice bit of sweetness to them. The noodles were on the mushy side. As I had been told, this was served with just a few slices of lime and the chilies. Different, very different from the Southern style Pho that is the norm in the states.

I didn't have much time for "Pho" contemplation, we needed to get back to the hotel for a quick shower....and had to meet our Guide and Driver for a tour of Van Phuc, Le Mat, and Bat Trang.....

Comments

[kat]

now that is cheap eats! :)

[Carol]

I think if I was on this trip, I'd come back 10 lbs heavier just from sampling all the food.

[freddy]

A buck for a veggie mushy pho? That ain't no bargain for Vietnam prices!

Can't wait for the Bun Rieu! That's what you're in the north for!

[mizducky]

Hi Kirk--just caught up with your trip reports. Your observations of slice-of-life stuff are as fascinating as the food reportage. And thanks for the info about banh, and about how northern-style pho differs so drastically from the pho we see here in the US (although northern pho style might help explain some super-wimpy pho broths I've tasted recently... :-D )

[Chris]

Hmm. Looks like the banh gio, is kind of like a Vietnamese Tamale..I don't want to over simplify things, but looks like the tamale I had at El Salavador restaurant. Your assesment? The pho difference between North vs south, would you say has alot to do with the presentaion (platter of aromatic herbs, sprouts)on the side? I can't believe its true: seems like the restaurants all have these plastic "kid's table seats" are you suprised this does not carry over to Vietnamese restaurants in USA? (or have you seen it here?)I think that would be pretty neat for authenticity to sit like this. Ha ha!

[Chris]

One more question: do you know how when you live someplace, you can't really "smell it" because its always there, but if you go someplace new- theres a smell. What were you smelling here? (hard to describe a smell, I know) but was it like charcoal burning, the smell of..lemongrass in the air? smog/exaust? damp humidity?

[Rachel]

Wow! Yum! I can't wait to try banh gio. What a bargain price too. Thanks for putting that link for that author in. That was an interesting article.

[Kirk]

Hi Kat - Relatively speaking, yes it is!

Hi Carol - LOL! With all the moving around we did....just like Peru, I actually lost a few pounds.

Hi Freddy - Yes, Bun Rieu, but don't forget Cha Ca, Bun Cha, and Buon Cuon! So many choices, so little time.....

Hi Mizducky - This was like no other Pho I'd ever had.....and Northerners love their Pho this way.

Hi Chris - The Pho up North is not as rich, lower in oil, without the hints of anise-cinnamon-clove. It is very light. The noodles are wider, and the texture closer to "Bun" than the Pho I'm used too. I guess for comparison purposes, Vietnamese Tamale would be an apt description, this one is made with rice flour, and the meat is minced, not shredded, in spite of looks it is a totally different flavor profile. It is more like a steamed rice cake, though. The kiddie chairs are for practicality purposes....once things sold out you stack everything and are gone! Remember, very few cars, very little space, almost no storage. The smell is a combination of exhaust fumes, dust, with sprinkling of Asian herbs....

Hi Rachel - I'm glad you enjoyed the article...I thought it was pretty informative.

[nhbilly]

Banh Gio is my favorite it's so simple and yet very enjoyable especially with a little Maggi its unbelievable. The portion you guys were served looked very big I guess the cropping is the cause for it but everyone I've spoke too says the portion is very small. What's your take?

[Kirk]

Hey Billy - The amount of filling is on the smallish side, but I think that's to be expected in VN. Each day the Missus and I shared one of these each morning, and I usually had something else. One entire Banh Gio would have been enough for breakfast, IMO. Though I understand that breakfast usually is the largest meal in VN.

[Trent]

I'd like to see Rachel Ray do "Forty Cents a Day" in VN. Banh Gio, Yum-O!

[nhbilly]

Keep it up Kirk.....makes me want to visit the motherland even more.

[Kirk]

Hi Trent - LOL! You crack me up....she could easily do $2 a day, and it wouldn't be a problem, 'cause she stiffs on tips anyway.....

Hi Billy - What about the Fatherland? ;o)

[nhbilly]

Oh yeah the father too...keep it coming, please. Can't wait to check out the next episode.

[cuisine bonne femme]

I'm loving your travelogue. Vietnam was my "France". Totally life changing the times I've been there. It's funny though, I really dug Hanoi way more than I thought I would. Once I got into the groove of it and met a terrific Cyclo driver who basically became my guide (and friend). Went to a ton of off the beaten tourist path places due to him. Your pictures and descriptions really make me miss it. (and the food). Thanks for sharing!

[Kirk]

Hi CBF - Hanoi sure had its own beat and rhythm, and folks are a bit cautious, but very nice when you get to know them.