Peru: A Very Special Dinner

One of the main reasons we arranged for an extra day in Cusco, was to attend a very special dinner. Just before we left for Peru, we had gotten an invitation to have dinner at the home of the parents of an acquaintance of ours. We felt really honored to be invited, and it was obvious to us that this was an invitation that could not, and would not be turned down, under any circumstances. And so, we found ourselves in a taxi winding its way through cobblestone side streets on the outskirts of Cusco. Until we came to a very narrow street. It was obvious that driving on this little strip of cobblestone was not an easy thing. When we arrived, a car was stalled at the entrance of the street, our taxi driver got out and helped to push the car out of the way. (When we left, another car was stalled at the entrance of the street. The driver had to parked and walk down the street to get us.) We drove up the street, around a tight corner, back around and up the street again, but we could not find the address. The young man stopped at the corner, told us to wait for a minute in pseudo sign language, got out of the car. Were we abandoned here on the outskirts of Cusco? Of course not, our driver had gone to find a pay phone and called the phone number on our little scrap of paper with the address. We were going to be met.....unfortunately, the driver put his taxi in reverse, and the car was stuck!! Luckily, he managed to correct the problem. At this point, we thought this poor dedicated cabbie had gone through enough....for s/3 ($1 US). We told him we'd walk, gave him s/10 for his troubles. Just then we were met, and walked over to a doorway......Through that doorway  and down a flight of stairs, lay a courtyard, a lovely gazebo, wonderful foliage, with several buildings making up the compound. We were guided to a seating room, and made at home by Victor(our friend's kind, gentle Step-Dad), and soon enough met Tatiana(his friendly, warm cousin), and eventually Rosa(his Mom....who made dinner, and BTW is 86!). We enjoyed sitting and chatting, Tatiana spoke excellent English which made everything much easier for us. Our conversation drifted from Cusco, to food, to a few quips the Missus had....most of which had me, and the word "gordo" as the subject.....

Soon dinner was served:

Yes, it was Cuy(Guinea Pig), amazingly good Cuy! It seems that many people believe that Cuy is some kind of ubiquitous rite-of-passage, I dare you, "Andrew Zimmern-nized", badge of courage. Before we left for Peru, and Cusco, we did a bit of research, and found that Cuy is traditionally served on special occasions and played a large part in Andean religious practices. We were truly honored to be guests for this wonderful meal.

Even though Cuy has quite a history, and a serious role in Andean culture, history, and cuisine, there is still much good humor in "Cuy conversations" . We notice that many people do what we call "the Cuy". Never seen it? Well, "the Cuy" is done by putting your arms to your sides, and bringing your hands up, sort of similar to the Kung Fu Crane Form. At the same time create an overbite using your central incisors, and make a "pffff" sound. Even our waiter at Astrid y Gaston did "the Cuy"! Notice below......

Like I said, this was an amazingly good dish. The Cuy had been roasted in a traditional wood fired oven. A basting with olive oil, salt, huacatay, and other seasonings, had been key in creating a wonderful dish. The skin was like the best lacquered pork "skin/chicharron". Cuy is all dark meat, moist, and full of flavor. The texture of the meat is almost like duck, but much milder in flavor, with just a very mild gaminess. Does it taste like chicken? Well, perhaps really moist, free range, all dark meat chicken, maybe..... My favorite parts were the legs...crunchy, salty, great for gnawing, bones and all, and the meat along the back of the spine, and near the ribs...tender with a flavor akin to dark meat pork, with a touch of sweetness. Tatiana told us that Cuy is high in protein, low in fat and cholesterol. I was sucking bones clean at the end.......

Along with fire roasted potatoes, some really flavorful aji salsa, and the company, this was an unforgettable meal. Discussions ran the gamut, from Coca, to Japan, to San Diego, and beyond.... Some other things we learned:

- The reason the Cuy we had before tasted fishy, was that they were fed a diet of meal that included fish meal and other ingredients to make them grow large quickly. The traditional food for Cuy is Alfalfa. Now we know what all the alfalfa those women were carrying was for!

- As a whole, the locals don't eat Alpaca(other than anticuchos), it is tourist food. It is also very expensive.

- It is customary to have a beverage, either beer or wine, after eating Cuy. We were told this was to "kill the Cuy" for good.

After dinner we had a short tour of the grounds, and though it was quite dark, we managed to meet...

The Cuy, which are housed in the same area as the oven to keep them warm. When the door opened, they scattered everywhere.....they are really fast little critters.

They are kinda cute....the Missus said that She "was glad that I saw them after dinner....."

I should've taken notes.....the Missus had a free tour of the garden, and all the different herbs were described. Here's a really bad picture of the Gallina(Hens), Victor told me they were really good egg layers....

By this time it was getting late, and our cab to the hotel arrived. We said our goodbyes. The ride back was fairly quiet, the Missus and I were still taking in, and thinking about, what a very special meal we had. What can I say.......to be guests of a warm and generous family who opened up their home to us, to have shared conversation, laughter, and food, it is a wonderful thing that I can't describe in words. It was one of the moments that made this trip so memorable.

Comments

[nhbill]

Brave, I would too as long as its cooked. Just imagine a tiny little pig ;-)

[RONW]

mucho hospitality.

[Reid]

Kirk,

Home-cooked is always the best. Especially when the food is cooked and served with with love and care. I can only imagine how delicious this meal was for both you and the missus.

[santos.]

what a gracious family, it sounds like a wonderful meal. although, like missus, i would be glad to see the live critters *after* dinner.

[ikes]

I had a Guinea Pig as a pet when i was young. "Rosie" was her name. That thing was so annoying. I should have just eaten it.

[Candice]

The post I've been waiting for! That skin does look amazing. Glad that you could try it in such friendly company.

[Chubbypanda]

I've always wanted to try cuy. One of the guys at work had a Peruvian wife, and he used to go on and on about how good it was.

[Kathy]

Oh man, this was a very interesting post! I've never heard of people eating guinea pig...but you've got me super duper intrigued! :)...especially on the all dark meat part, hehe!

[Christine D.]

Wow, I'm touched by their hospitality and I wasn't even a part of it!

What a special meal...

[milgwimper]

Kirk that was a beautiful post! :) I wonder if my husband would be allergic to eating cuy since he is allergic to the guinea pigs. Not that I can afford to go to Peru anytime. :P

[howie]

The way you describe it, it sounds delicious! I might be looking at those critters at Petsmart in a whole new light now.

It's great that you got to see what a real, special local family dinner is like.

[Michael]

My friend has Cuy or maybe Koi....Either way I think we would be able to come up with some resipes for them. yummmmeeee!....great work and awsome adventure.

[Wandering Chopsticks]

Aha! Finally, the post I'd been waiting for. I've heard them described as being like roast pork before but couldn't imagine such little things tasting like such big pigs. Hehe :P

[Kirk]

Hi Billy - Yep, sounds about right.

Hi RONW - Yes....

Hi Reid - Nothing can beat great home cooking....

Hi Santos - This was such a special meal, wonderful people, wonderful food.

Hi ikes - LOL! You just broke one of the major rules....you can't eat it, if it has a name!

Hi Candice - So much like the best pork skin, light and crunchy.

Hi CP - He wasn't lying to you. In the hands of a skilled cook, it is very good. I've heard unconfirmed stories about Cuy being available in LA.

Hi Kathy - Cuy is considered a delicacy in the Andes - Peru, Ecuador, Bolivia, and Columbia.

Hi Christine - We were just blown away by the hospitality and generousity.

Hi Mills - I dunno, that's an interesting question.

Hi Howie - I wouldn't go rushing into your local neighborhood pet shop.....in order for Cuy to taste right, it needs a certain diet.

Hi Michael - Cuy??? Koi??? he-he-he....

Hi WC - The skin is much like roasted suckling pig. Not much meat....but lots of skin!

[elmomonster]

I'm glad you found good cuy! And of course you had to include a few pics of them alive! Great commentary on the history and "the dare factor"...Andrew Zimmern must seem silly to the people he visits. "Cheers!"

[Kirk]

Hi Elmo - This was really good Cuy. And as you can tell very fresh, and "free range" to boot!