Cantonese Feast at Yummy Yummy in Yuma

Hi everyone - this is ed from Yuma again.  mmm-yoso!!! is Kirk's wonderful blog, and he is kind enough (or lazy enough?) to let Cathy and I post here occasionally. I felt like sharing with you a meal that I recently shared with some of my friends in Yuma. Unfortunately for you, they got to taste the dishes, you just get to read about them. Sorry about that!

I can still remember a conversation that took place about seven years ago. I was waiting for some take-out from this nearby Cantonese restaurant, and I asked Mary, the proprietor, if they could make greens with foo-yee sauce.

"You like foo-yee?" she asked with a raised eyebrow and a quizzical look on her face.

"I love it," I lied. I had never tried it. However, I had just read at Chowhound that Jim Leff initially judges a Cantonese restaurant by ordering greens in foo yee sauce. If they could not make it, the restaurant was not authentic. If they could not make it well, the restaurant was not likely to make anything else very well either.

A week later, I opened my first carry out box full of greens in foo yee sauce. The pungent aroma of fermented tofu heavily laced with garlic rose to my nostrils in a scented steamy cloud. The greens were in a light colored sauce full of garlic chunks and smears of fragrant tofu. What a funky wonderful way to eat a vegetable. As it turned out, this was the true beginning of my relationship with Yummy Yummy restaurant and of my education about Cantonese cuisine.

Over the years, Mary has taught me about various Chinese greens and other vegetables, and her restaurant has served me hundreds of generally satisfying dinners and lunches.

Anyway, this last week I hosted a veggie dinner at Yummy Yummy for nine of my friends, most of whom have treated me to dinners and parties at their homes. This was my way of partially repaying them for their gracious hospitality without having to clean my apartment. Since I had just returned from San Diego (and the Ranch 99 market), I made sure that Mary had a range of interesting vegetables to prepare.

After we had opened numerous bottles of wine that we brought, and after steamed rice, fried rice, and a vegetable chow mein hit the table, the first real entree to arrive was fried tofu and pineapple in a sweet and sour sauce:

As usual at Yummy Yummy, the tofu was perfectly fried, putting a nice skin over the moist and tender interior. To balance the sweetness of this dish, the bitter melon in black bean sauce was served next (photo is a bit fuzzy):

While some of my friends are not very fond of bitter melon, I love this dish, and Mary has taught me how to select melons that are more or (as in this case) less bitter. The deep flavors of black beans provide a perfect foil to the smooth bitterness.

Two orders of vegetable egg foo yung soon followed. While not earth-shatteringly good, Yummy Yummy's egg foo yung has a straight-forward, mild flavor. I had never ordered it until some of us got together for a similar feast last year, and one individual asked for egg foo yung, and I was reintroduced to a dish I only remembered from childhood:

In order to show off Yummy Yummy's Mexicali style kung pao, I asked Mary to prepare kung pao squash.This restaurant's kung pao is done with celery, baby corn chunks, and water chestnuts instead of peanuts to add crunch. While I usually have the dish with chicken, the squash was a good substitute that added to the various textures (sorry about the blurry picture):

Everyone thought this was a very tasty and spicy dish.

The next two dishes were two versions of yu choi (Ranch 99 was out of on choi and their long beans looked long on age). One of them was prepared with foo yee sauce, and the other with a ginger and garlic sauce (pictured):

Although both preps were good and showed off the fresh green flavors of the yu-choi, the greens with the foo yee sauce were the favorite of my friends. Considering that no one at the table had ever eaten foo yee sauce before we started dining at Yummy Yummy, it amazes me to hear someone say "wow, I love that foo yee sauce!" with a rich Texas accent.

Two plates of my favorite dish from the meal, tofu with fresh shiitake mushrooms, then followed:

The intense umami of the mushrooms is a perfect complement to the neutral tofu. In addition to the soft chewy 'shrooms, the slightly bite resistent tofu skin, and the soft creamy interior of the tofu, thin strips of onion and celery added to the contrasts in textures and to the overall mouthfeel of this succulent and savory dish.

Tiny baby bok choi arrived next, their light sauce full of ginger slices and chunks of garlic. Again the cooking emphasized the freshness of the veggies, leaving plenty of cruch to match up with the softer green parts of the leaves:

The same wonderful baby vegetable then arrived paired with fried tofu:

For a bit of a change of pace, the spicy tofu was served with steamed tofu. Normally this dish would have had different vegetables, but I think Mary felt that she needed to use up the whole bag of shiitakes that I brought back from San Diego:

Amazingly, most of the spicy dishes at Yummy Yummy are created using a single dried chili pod from a type of chili that I cannot recall ever seeing elsewhere in a restaurant or a store (the pic is from another meal). Yet that single chili is perfectly capable of spicing up and flavoring an entire plate of food.

The final dish, egg plant in oyster sauce, was a fitting conclusion to the meal and tasted much better than it looked. The rich flavor and soft texture of the vegetable gave all of us pleasure:

I should note that most of these dishes are not regularly available at the restaurant. The menu simply notes "Chinese Vegetable" ($6.99), and normally only one or two Chinese vegetable choices are available at any time. But as you can tell, this restaurant is very willing to work with a customer (particularly a customer possessing a Chinese vegetable or two) to create wonderful meals.

I should also point out that this is not fancy food, by any means. Instead, Yummy Yummy prepares straight-forward, ingredient-centered dishes. Nonetheless, the 9 omnivores and the one mostly vegetarian person all left feeling like they had enjoyed a true gourmet experience.

I hope you readers and friends of mmm-yoso have enjoyed looking at and hearing about this meal almost as much as my friends and I enjoyed eating it. Unfortunately, I don't think that's possible.

Yummy Yummy Chinese Restaurant, 2241 S. Ave A, #23 in Palm Plaza, Yuma AZ 85364, (928) 376-0419.

Comments

[RONW]

sounds like a beautiful relationship.

[nhbilly]

I love the very 1st vege plate you have. I can eat all of that by myself.

[Carol]

Hi Ed! Your friends are very lucky! The feast looks absolutely delicious. I love egg plant dishes and I noticed that the dish you had, the peel has been removed. I find that unless they are the tender Japanese eggplant, the peel is very hard and sometimes bitter. Tofu and mushrooms, a great combo. I can almost smell them...

[ed (from Yuma)]

RONW - Several times in my life, I have had a real relationship with a restaurant which has profited both of us - though in different ways. In a small town like Yuma, Yummy Yummy is for me an oasis of interesting food in a literal desert.

nhbilly - Yeh I ate all that on choi. I wish I had been able to buy some for our feast.

Carol - thanks. The food at YY always tastes better than it looks - particularly in those pictures. The fried tofu there is always really well prepared and that combo with the mushrooms was just sinfully good.

[Nicholas Chee]

^_^ I'm glad to see that chinese food in another country looked and prepared just the way it's supposed to look and taste. A sigh of relief.

But seeing all these chinese food made me cringe as it felt so common and boring. Well, that's what you get when you're a chinese right? >_<

[ed (from Yuma)]

Nicholas - Mary's family are from Guangdong, and after living in Mexicali for a while, they moved to my small town. They do know how to do things correctly.

You are also right that this is fairly simple food - certainly would be boring to someone in China or in a major US city with a large Cantonese population. But let me assure you, out here on the Mexican border in the desert, this is exciting food for us locals.

[sue]

looks so good!

would you e-mail me re: the route to Yuma? Is 86 a freeway or divided highway? wiki says 'muy peligroso'

thanks for all your help in our trip planning. much appreciated!