Plate Lunch Week- Leilani's Hawaiian Restaurant

*** An update on Leilani's Restaurant can be found here.

*** This location of Leilani's has closed.

I've been thinking about doing a "Plate Lunch Week" for a while now. You know, getting back to my roots (or depending on your view..."into the weeds"). So after procrastinating for a few months, I've decided to do a mmm-yoso plate lunch week...this week it'll be Monday to Friday plate lunches. Heaven for those who like "major grindz", hell for those watching their cholesterol.

I thought I'd start with Leilani's....no it's not a rehash of my post on Leilani's Cafe in PB, but the "new" Leilani's Hawaiian Restaurant, located in of all places, Serra Mesa. FOY (Friend of Yoso) Trent(now called Bruddah Trent), first informed me of Leilani's existence in an email, and a few days later, I went to check it out.

So why start with Leilani's? I've noticed that here on the mainland, we have been inundated with a number of "Hawaiian BBQ" joints. So it goes without saying that most people I've met think that Hawaiian BBQ is the ubiquitous "plate lunch". Nothing wrong with that, but the plate lunch is much more than the corporate Hawaiian BBQ, which when done well, is a good value(there are several L&L locations in Honolulu that I like), but when done with only the profit margin in mind(which happens often), is really lousy. If you grew up in Hawaii, you're sure to have your favorite(s), whether it's Rainbow Drive-In(my personal favorite), Masu's(RIP Masu's), Richie's, Zippy's, Cafe 100, Grace's, or any number of places, and there are many. You'd also realize that there is life beyond the BBQ Chicken, BBQ Beef, and all the generic items served in those Hawaiian BBQ places. Each one of the places mentioned above have their own versions of the "standards", each with it's own "food personality" of sorts. In addition, other "standards" like Beef Stew, Sweet Sour Pork, Chili, Mochiko Chicken, etc, are also available. The difference with Leilani's is that the food served feels and tastes "home made". I think that Leilani's breaks the generic Hawaiian BBQ cycle.

The interior of Leilani's is spartan, bright, and clean.

So of course I started with the Regular Loco Moco($7.50):

Not the largest loco, nor the most sophisticated. But this loco moco is the closest to what my Mom made, from the hand formed patty, to the home made beef gravy, this screams "comfort food" for me. The hamburger is very lean, so it might be a touch on the tough side for many, but that is because there is no filler. The eggs are done a perfect "medium" over. My only regret was that no Tabasco Sauce was available. I find the vinegar-spiciness of Tabasco to be the perfect foil for the eggs and gravy. Plus, that is pretty much the way I've always eaten my locos.....

Teriyaki Chicken Hawaiian Style ($7.50):

As on my previous visits to Leilani's Cafe, the teri sauce is sweet but not overly sweet. I love the little touch of teri sauce over the rice. I wish that like my previous visits the chicken was dark meat, but this was still good. I enjoy the mac salad, it has the right amount of mayo, and the carrots and celery added good flavor and texture.

On my most recent visit, I got a good taste of the "Aloha" that exists at Leilani's. During my meals, during slower periods Leilani would appear from the kitchen and chat. During one of those conversations, I mentioned my lament at the lack of Tabasco Sauce. On this visit I walked in, and Leilani goes, "Hi Kirk, you know, when I went shopping, I remembered how you and a bunch of other people wanted Tabasco. So guess what?"

Now that's service.....I'm surprised she even remembered who I was......

I ordered the Hilo Style Loco($8.95):

I've detailed it all here. I was also given a little dish of extra gravy, which was a nice touch.

Leilani's is not the most inexpensive, nor are the portions huge, and it is not everyone's cup of tea. But the food is made with care, as if you are eating at your Tutu's(Aunty's).

For those regulars of Leilani's in PB, I did manage to ask a few questions...

Why Serra Mesa? Leilani was looking for a larger kitchen for her catering jobs, and it just so happen that this property became available. She is able to run both a restaurant and do catering from this location.

What about PB? The PB location is (hopefully) temporarily closed. In order to bring the property up to code, a commercial kitchen, among other renovations need to be done.

In news that warmed my heart, Leilani told me that since the customer focus seems to be more on "grindz" in Serra Mesa, she's thinking of having weekly specials, with stuff like Beef Stew and such.

Sad thing for me, is that after this post, I'm sure that word will get to Leilani and my cover will be blown...but that's okay, I'll keep eating there.

Leilani's Hawaiian Restaurant
3232 Greyling Drive
San Diego, CA 92123
858-565-4637

Open Mon-Sat 11am - 9pm
Closed on Sundays

A few years ago during an interview with Honolulu Weekly, Eddie Flores Jr, the founder of  L & L, mentioned his vision:

"L&L doesn’t use the term “plate lunch” in its mainland restaurants. Instead the cuisine is called “Hawaiian barbecue.” Flores says that with about 80 L&L restaurants on the mainland today and more than 100 set to open by the end of the year—along with 50 or 60 copycat restaurants with names like Waikiki Hawaiian Barbecue and L&K Hawaiian Barbecue—the words “plate lunch” are on their way out."

“In five to 10 years, we won’t call it plate lunch but Hawaiian barbecue,” he says. “Only old-timers will remember the plate lunch.”

This "old-timer" hopes not......I still love my "world on a plate"... Chicken Katsu-Sweet Sour Pork mix with extra Kim Chee!

One little bit of silliness. My favorite intersection in San Diego is located in Serra Mesa, and on my way home from Leilani's I finally managed a photo:

The question? Unida place?

The answer? Haveteur Way.....

Who says that city planners have no sense of humor???

Comments

[Kathy]

Hey Kirk!
I love the idea of "Plate Lunch Week"!!! =) Come to think of it, I never had a loco moco since I got back, thank you for reminding me! Truth be told, I prefer "plate lunch" much more to "hawaiian barbecue"...the latter sounds so tacky/cheesy! I suppose I am also an "old-timer?" hehe :)

[Reid]

Kirk,

It's interesting that there are so many "local" food places there in SD. When I was last there, about 6 years ago, I didn't really notice any.

The teri chicken looks good. I think I need to make some...soon!

[Andy 美國土子]

Kirk, I don't know much about Hawaiian food, but is LOCO stand for what Hawaiians call "local food" or it used for a rice dish with an egg as in your two pictures?

[Rachel]

hey the return of the plate lunches!!! What a great roud up .... bet it was hard work for you to do all that research *wink*

Now, even though I don't live in the US, when I visit, I will try them and refer to them as plate lunches! :P

[RONW]

Kirk, that "....I'm surprised she (Leilani) even remembered who I was...." You know them "local" people better than that.

also, interesting article about Eddie Flores (L&L). However, Eddie and his entire 160 "Hawaiian style" restaurants chain, lacks the proper credentials to claim that the term "plate lunch" is obsolete, because, for the record, he wasn't even a citizen, and certainly not a Hawaii resident, until he moved to Hawaii when he was already 16-yrs old.

[thess]

Hello Kirk, how have you been?! (^-^)

I am eyeing the Loco Moco and Hilo Style Loco, they both look yummy! Honestly, I've never eaten hawaiian food, ever. After this comment I will surf for some (especially those 2 locos, btw what does 'loco' mean?)

I am curious of the gravy, how do you make it Kirk?

I might go to CA before the year ends, I will ask Leilanie to serve me Kirk's favorites (^-^)

have a nice day!

[ed (from Yuma)]

Love that intersection. Nice dark gravy on the loco. Luckily I'm still stuffed from last night's dinner, or I would be having a major food jones right now.

[nhbilly]

Looks like a typical Vietnamese com tam. Can't go wrong with easy over eggs on rice with gravy, period.

[Steamy Kitchen]

where's the spsm fried rice?!?!

[Jack]

That's how to lure me out of lurk mode Kirk....do a post on a plate lunch restaurant! Going back to the basics, and if I'm not mistaken, how I came upon your blog a few years ago. Anyway, looks good! You know I have to try the new spot, especially since it's pretty close. I would go to Leilani's in PB in the morning for a local-style breakfast when everyone else was getting bagels after a surf.

[Jack]

Oh, and btw, for me it's Rainbow Drive-In (you know how I feel about L&L)....I could live on chili and rice with maybe a slush for dessert

[Kirk]

Hi Kathy - I agree 100%...to me it will always be "plate lunch". Hawaiian BBQ is a sub-set of the whole category of plate lunches!

Hi Reid - These places have popped up everywhere, unfortunately almost all of them are Hawaiian BBQ.

Hi Andy - Loco Moco's is the dish with eggs, hamburger patty, rice, covered in beef gravy, or a reasonable facsimile. It is indeed a weird name. You can find the History of the loco moco here:

http://whatscookingamerica.net/History/LocoMocoHistory.htm

Ignore the terrible photo of the "white gravy" in the photo, it has no business being there.

I have a whole category devoted to loco mocos:

http://mmm-yoso.typepad.com/mmmyoso/loco_mocos/index.html

Plate lunches per se, is not Hawaiian Food, that is the traditional food of ethnic Hawaiians. Though you may find some traditional Hawaiian foods on a plate lunch, such as laulau.

Hi Rachel - LOL! It really was "no pain, no gain"..... ;o)

Hi RONW - Maybe I've been living on the Mainland for too long! That was an interesting statement, wasn't it?

Hi Thess - The usual gravy for the Loco Moco is a dark beef gravy. Drop me a line if you'll be in the area. We'll grab some Ono Filipino grindz....

Hi Ed - I'm quite sure that you're not in any state of malnourishment right now! he-he-he...

Hi Billy - Yes, never thought of it that way!

Hi SK - Gosh, don't you know? Spam fried rice is only for special occasions! LOL! ;o)

Hi Jack - Yes, I know your feelings about L&L.... At Rainbows it's the BBQ Beef (aka Teri Beef) on Bun Deluxe(2 of them) with a slush float for me! I'm glad to know you're still lurking about. It's also good to get back to my "roots" as it were.

[thess]

"Drop me a line if you'll be in the area. We'll grab some Ono Filipino grindz..."

you're on!

[mizducky]

Haven't been through that corner of Serra Mesa recently, but I think I know almost exactly which block of Greyling Drive that Leilani's is at--it's right near that El Cotixan taco stand, right? Ah well, yet another place to add to my list of places to check out... life is so tough that way... :-D

[Kirk]

Hi Thess - Just let me know!

Hi Mizducky - You'd be surprised, there's a new market, as well as Leilani's.

[daweekendfoodie]

Hi Kirk! Will definitely be following your plate lunch week... And I agree with Kathy... Personally, I've always thought that the term Hawaiian Barbecue just sounds plain weird...brings to mind a picture of a pineapple with ribs or some kind of tropical fruity thing with grilled meat...or maybe you're served barbecue by a hula girl? Maybe in the mainland it works, but I don't think that the "Hawaiian Barbecue" term will catch on in the islands(try asking a kamaaina if they eat hawaiian barbecue...they might ask you what's that?) ...plate lunch definitely rules here... Can't wait to see your next post!

[dave]

As i was taking a (very) roundabout way home from work today, i passed the PB Leilani's. There is a sign on the front of the porch proclaiming that they are reopening this Sunday.

[Kirk]

Hi DWF - Oh my, throwing pineapple on something and calling it "Hawaiian" drives me nuts....

And yes, it will always be a "plate lunch". I don't know how many times I've explained that plate lunch is not Hawaiian BBQ, but Hawaiian BBQ is a kind of plate lunch!

Hi Dave - Wow, thanks for the info, that is quite interesting....I'll try to check it out!

[Captain Jack]

Shoot,

I hope Lelani does not blow off the PB location. I love her loco moco and her mac salad.

[elmomonster]

NICE! I like places that not only remember who you are, but a place that remembers to buy things like Tabasco sauce just for you?! Unheard of!