Latin Chef Part 1

During a recent dinner with Ed from Yuma, just before our panchan arrived, Ed brought out a nicely folded sheet of paper from his pocket. What he had was a menu from a new restaurant in Pacific Beach called Latin Chef. When I read the menu, I almost fell off my seat. The menu was predominantly Peruvian, with a few Brazilian dishes. One of the things I miss about living in Los Angeles are the Peruvian Restaurants. There must be over 2 dozen Peruvian Restaurants that I know about....I say at least, because if you have 5 Peruvian Newspapers, as LA does, you must have a rather large Peruvian population. Our luck with Peruvian food in San Diego had not been very positive, so needless to say I was excited.

So of course there I was the next afternoon, at about 4pm for a early dinner.

I managed to find parking on Garnet avenue, no easy task! I was greeted by a smile and hello by the very friendly young lady, and told to have a seat anywhere I wanted in this tiny restaurant.

A one page menu, similar to the one that Ed had shown me was handed to me. A though I did look over the menu, one of the dishes I had read the previous night stuck in my head. You see, one of the reasons I think we enjoy Peruvian food so much, are the almost Asian flavors and cooking techniques that are used. I had always wondered about the use of soy sauce in Peruvian food, until I saw one of the episodes of Cheuk Kwan's wonderful documentary series, Chinese Restaurants that tells the story of the Chinese diaspora through the Chinese restaurant. During a screening of the episode called Latin Passions at the San Diego Asian Film Festival, I finally had a few answers, and also some motivation when I got home, to try and find some information for myself. If you have a chance, don't miss screenings of this wonderful series. I've seen two episodes so far, and will probably purchase the whole set this year. Anyone who has read my post on Asian Noodles, and my fascination with Ma Mon Luk, or even my posts on Al Pastor and the "Trompo", understands my fascination with this subject. So, some interesting data....Chinese first arrived in Peru during the middle of the 1800's til the mid-1870's. These immigrants arrived to work on the sugar plantations, and to work on the guano mines. Another wave of immigrants arrived after the establishment of Communist rule in China in 1949. And though many Chinese fled Peru during the rule of Juan Velasco Alvarado, there is still an estimated 4 million Peruvians of Chinese Ancestry in Peru.

Each meal at Latin Chef starts with some Canchita.

The young lady was fairly surprised when I exclaimed "aaah canchita..." Canchita is a very popular appetizer/snack(beer food), that is corn kernals that are roasted or fried until just before popping. This version was nicely salted, crunchy and addictive.

With the influence of the Spanish, Japanese, Chinese, and Inca people, I find the eclectic cuisine of Peru to be full of fascinating flavors. Getting back to the Chinese influence in Peru. The word used for Chinese food in Peru is "Chifa", I've read that it is based on the Mandarin phrase to eat, "Chi Fan". Chinese restaurants in Peru are called "El Chifa", and one of the two oldest Chinatowns in Latin America is located in Lima, "Barrio Chino de Lima". I've read that there are over half a million Peruvians of Chinese Ancestry currently living in Lima. One of my favorite Peruvian creole dishes is Lomo Saltado, and without fail, it is usually the first item I'll try at any Peruvian restaurant, Latin Chef was no different.

The version of Lomo Saltado at Latin Chef($8.50), was quite good. Don't let the "papas fritas"(french fries) scare you as it did a few on Chowhound. Papas Fritas are an integral part of Lomo Saltado. Though these large crinkle cut fries are a bit distracting. I'm used to having the potatoes fried with the rest of the ingredients, and later on asked the proprietor, Freddie about them. He told me that they will do it either way, so I'll make sure to ask for them to be fries with the Carne, and the rest of the ingredients next time. I found the beef to be pretty good, as with most versions of Lomo Saltado, I found the lean beef to be on the tough side, though in this case the slices of beef were very moist. Where this Lomo Saltado separated itself from very pedestrian versions is the very flavorful sauce, both a bit salty, slightly sweet, and tangy, this was a nice rendition.

The tomatoes were sweet and tangy, and the onions added a nice flavor to the dish. I enjoy a bit of heat, so without fail I'll always request some "Aji"(red chili sauce) with anything I order. This version added some nice heat.

This was a very nice, and reasonably priced meal. And I knew that I'd be bringing the Missus along for the next one....

Now I realize I've been very wordy so I'll stop here for now.....part 2 is coming up!

If you want to grab a meal in the meantime:

Latin Chef
1142 Garnet Ave
San Diego, CA 92109
(858)-270-8810

Closed on Mondays...the hours are a bit strange. The menu says Tues-Fri 3pm-10pm, Sat-Sun 11am-10pm. But they really don't open until 1230pm. So I'm not quite sure.

Those that live in San Diego, and the PB area will get this joke....someone asked where this restaurant was located on Garnet, and I replied it's right before the 7th sushi bar on Garnet after Ingraham.....sheesh! I guess there's a local ordinance that says 1 coffee shop on every corner, and one purveyor of California Roll on every block!

Part 2 coming up!

Comments

[nhbilly]

Yum Peruvian food...The first time I had Peruvian food, I was like what the heck - it seems to have an Asian flare, which was alright with me. I'm a big fan of the Pescado de Saltado and this place - http://www.inkamamas.com/
There green sauce they serve with the toasted bread is so so so gooooood.

[Wandering Chopsticks]

Kirk, Great overview of the Chinese influence on Peruvian cuisine. Now, what about the Japanese? :)

Makes me want to go to my local Peruvian restaurant...Oooh, and I've got a craving ceviche...

[Kathy]

I wish I had read your post before going for Peruvian in Claremont last week! Can't wait for part 2 :)

[Jim]

Hey Kirk,

The local ordinance has changed a few years ago, now its 1 coffee shop on every corner and 2 tattoo parlors for every 1 coffee shop. And sushi restaurants, bars, and expensive clothing shops fill in the gaps!

We tried a few dishes there already and the Ajide Gallia – Shredded chicken in a spicy sauce made from cream, yellow aji (Peruvian chili), and cheese is by far my favorite.

Freddy told us the hours were 12:30 to 9 Tuesday through Sunday.

[Holly]

Hey Kirk - longtime lurker, first time commenter here. When I used to live in Miami, my "corner Chinese take-out" place was called Chifa and was, you guessed it, chinese-peruvian food. Soo good. Before I went there, I had no idea about the chinese/peruvian connection, but boy was I fascinated once I learned about it. Also, for the record, as indulgent as it sounds, mixing fried rice in with papa la huancaina takes two masterpiece dishes to a whole new level!

[Kirk]

Hi Billy - I was the same way...the first time I had Lomo Saltado....I went, "I swear, there's soy sauce in this...." Hmmm Peruvian in Lake Forest...another one for my list!

Hi WC - Well, I'll have to find somewhere that serves stuff like Tiradito, etc......

Hi Kathy - You did just great for yourself.

Hi Jim - LOL! I did have the Aji de Gallina, and the flavor was pretty much what I remembered. Those "yellow" Aji are called Aji Amarillo. That's coming up in part 2.

Hi Holly - Thanks so much for commenting! Now that sounds like a restaurant I'd love to visit. And Arroz Chaufa with Papas a la Huacaina sounds pretty darn good...I'd just settle for some papas fritas, I just can't seem to get enough carbs!

[Andy 食神]

this sounds like a must try!

[Kirk]

Hi Andy - I think this is a must-try for San Diego. There are a ton of good Peruvian Restaurants in your neck of the woods.

[soyedil]

does anybody knows how far it's this restaurant from mission bay?
i am going to San Diego in JuLy!

[Cathy]

Depends where on Mission Bay you are, but it should be pretty close. No freeway necessary. Garnet Avenue is in Pacific Beach, which is the neighborhood north of the Bay. Mapquest it from your hotel address.

[Vince Velasco]

Glad to see a new Peruvian restaurant in SD. I've tried a good majority of the Peruvian restaurants from the Grossmont are to as far north as the Bay Area. I tend to judge a place by how they prepare Tallarin Verde con Bistek Aponado, the flavor and quality of their green and orange sauces and lastly by the flavor of the papa ala huancaina. For beverages I usually look for maracuya or cola Inglesa, instead of the typical chicha morada or Inka cola found at most places. I'm definitely looking forward to trying this place in PB.

[Vince Velasco]

Since I can't edit my previous post, it should read from the Grossmont "area" to as far north as the Bay Area.

I agree there are a large number of Peruvian places in LA County, which is definitely a good thing. Some favorites are El Recoto, El Hatuchay, El Virrey and a little place a couple of blocks east off the 101 fwy on Hollywood Blvd whose name I can't quite remember at the moment.

Ocean Beach used to have a good restaurant on Voltaire many years ago. Haven't tried the north county Peruvian place yet. The one near Grossmont didn't pass my taste test.

[Kirk]

Hi Vince - Ana Maria's is long gone. I hope you're guide for "judging" is only for the US. Because I wouldn't want to see you ordering that in a Cebecheria or Chicharroneria in Peru. The first place I ever had good Peruvian food at was El Rocoto on Artesia, it was the place that first got me interested in the cuisine, which culminated in our visit last year.

[Alex Flores]

Hi there, I never thought there would be that many Peruvian food "fans" out there, our cuisine has really come full circle and deservedly so. Allow me to add yet another wonderful restaurant in the L.A. area, is called "Don Felix" (on Virgil St., it has been there for at least 20 years)just East of Vermont Ave. and just off the 101. Absolutely one of the best "lomos" you'll ever try! and just like "El Rocoto" in Gardena, the owners are Japanese/Peruvians, and yes, they stir fry their lomo saltados, with plenty of soy-sauce. You can Google them for their address and directions. Buen provecho!!!