There are certain scents...or more appropriately smells, that you only need exposure to once for it to leave a permanent imprint in your memory bank. I remember one specific incident shortly after moving to the Mainland between the Missus and I, before she was the Missus:
"What the heck is that?"
"What?"
"That"
"Whhaaaat!!!"
"Who's burning tires in this neighborhood?"
"You dummy, that's skunk!"
"Skunk?"
"Yes, skunk, S-K-U-N-K....okay, retard Q&A is over, let's talk about something more important...."
It's amazing I'm still around..........
The scent of skunk is one of those things that you need only smell once.....and you'll never, ever forget. You see, there are no skunks back home in Hawaii. So to this day, when we have visitors and the now familiar scent of skunk is in the air, and I'm asked quizzically "what's that". I proudly answer, "that my friend.......is skunk!"
This little shop below is home to another one of those items that you need only smell once, and you'll recognize it for the rest of your life:
This shop located in Hong Kong Plaza in Rowland Heights, specializes in one thing. You can see it being cooked up behind what I assume is bulletproof glass.....
The Missus had been waiting to try the Chou Dofu, otherwise known as stinky tofu since she first spotted the shop a while back. When we lived up the street all the little shops in the alley had not been built yet, so the Missus got her Chou Tofu from Shau Mei Restaurant located in the same mall. To this day, it remains Her favorite.
To this day, I've tried to describe the smell of Chou Tofu accurately.....and failed. The Missus has said when done right it has the "a musty, rotten sewage like smell that comes from a dark, damp place." I think that Eddie of Deep End Dining has probably captured the decomposing heart, and rotting soul of stinky tofu best in his post.
I don't know if it's by design, but the entrance and part of the eating area is this little cubbyhole with little air circulation, the smell gets so thick in here, you think it's permanently attaching itself to your very being....so thick you can almost see it. But at least you'll be comforted by the sign that says "no msg".
The Missus looked over the menu....
And ordered Her tofu($4.00), which came out a few minutes later.
While waiting the Missus read the article posted on the door(click photo to enlarge), which stated that the fried tofu was perforated to allow the sauce to soak through the entire piece. The verdict? The Missus wasn't too impressed, according to Her (nope, I didn't eat any this time) the texture was too mushy, and the flavor really bland. She also said the cabbage lacked any saltiness or sweetness. Bummer, she was so looking forward to this. For now She'll stick to the version next door at Shau Mei.
Dynasty Plaza
18414 Colima Road(In Hong Kong Plaza)
Rowland Heights, CA 91748
For those Chou Dofu "scientists" eatingchinese.org has a very informative article on the Mutagenic Analysis of Fermenting Strains and Fermented Brine for Stinky Tofu, I'm not kidding, a real scientific article!
Oh, and I just remembered, after your stinky tofu, you can walk a few doors down and get some Fried Pork Rectum for dessert.
the steamed stinky tofu is easily the best.
I remember the best i had in Taiwan was at Ding Tai Fong (the main one). And i had Ma-la tofu at this place on hacienda blvd and haliburton i think, it was a hot pot place.
DELICIOUS!
Posted by: clayfu | Wednesday, 14 March 2007 at 10:24 PM
Hey Kirk,
I never had the pleasure of meeting a skunk, nor have I had the pleasure of "smelling" stinky tofu. I heard that it's an acquired taste. I'd love to try it sometime.
Posted by: Reid | Thursday, 15 March 2007 at 12:38 AM
Oh dear. I think I'm game to try it at least once ... but I'd like to do it someplace where I could run away easily if necessary. :-)
Posted by: mizducky | Thursday, 15 March 2007 at 01:13 AM
hehe, I was just in the area last week! We were at the supermarket, and my friend walked out and goes, "eww, what's coming from the dumpster?" she looks around and didn't see any dumpster. I tried to explain, but she refused to believe that tofu, or any edible food for that matter, could smell so foul! :)
Posted by: Kathy | Thursday, 15 March 2007 at 04:15 AM
Hmmmmm got to try some stinky tofu.
Posted by: nhbilly | Thursday, 15 March 2007 at 08:27 AM
Hi Clayfu - It's the place right next to Malan Noodles, right? In English it's something like Boiling Point...in Chinese it's Boiling Point, Stinky-Stinky Pot....
Hi Reid - Well skunk is an unforgettable smell... As for Chou Dofu, the flavor is pretty mild considering the smell...and it's quite hard for me to get over the smell!
Hi Mizducky - Unfortunately, the Chou Dofu in San Diego, is nowhere as smelly, nor as tasty.....
Hi Kathy - You should have walked her into the little shop! ;o) And I think you've got a point...deep-dark-dank-dumpster!
Hi Billy - Bon Apetit! You'll know why I don't bat an eye when ordering Bun Mam.....
Posted by: Kirk | Thursday, 15 March 2007 at 11:59 AM
Kirk,
I like my intestines with chili peppers and fish sauce. But I don't know if I'd order "rectum," even knowing it's the same thing. However, it does sound more appetizing than say a bowl of fried anus. :P
Posted by: Wandering Chopsticks | Thursday, 15 March 2007 at 01:53 PM
When I was younger, I was a huge Chou Dou Fu fan. The stinkier and spicier it was, the more I liked it. It was a real macho contest amongst my friends and I, like who could eat the hottest vindaloo or drink the most beer in one go.
As I've gotten older, I've found that my tastes have slowly shifted towards the more subtle taste of Zha Dou Fu (fried fresh tofu). The crispy texture of the fried surface and the refreshing custard within, redolant with the essence of soybeans, is what I've begun to crave. I like the Thai version the best.
Posted by: Chubbypanda | Thursday, 15 March 2007 at 03:54 PM
Kirk, great post. I've eaten at that place,too and would agree with your wife. I didn't know Shau Mei had it or I would have ordered from there. Shau Mei does some good Bentos or takeaways, though I've had other people say there entrees weren't that good.
Remember the photo's I showed you of the Stinky Tofu vendor in Kao Hsiung who did it crispy spring roll style? That was an interesting one. The best though, is the red braised with intestines stinky tofu style.
No about the fried rectum, I believe my wife tried one but she was expecting it to be more like fried intestines much like the Szechuan style, the one she got appeared to be the actual muscle sphinctre. I wouldn't even touch it.
Posted by: Jeffrey C | Thursday, 15 March 2007 at 06:30 PM
SKUNK? Hahah! One of my students had a skunk die under her house and she came in stinking up the entire classroom! It was pretty funny!
And yeah, never had stinky tofu myself. ;)
Posted by: BoLA | Thursday, 15 March 2007 at 08:07 PM
Wow, I could stop wincing and flinching and I read this post. When I got to the picture, I gagged a little. Unlike CP, I can't stand stinky tofu, but I didn't grow up on that stuff. I wish I was more open-minding and accepting like how you are, but I am a bigot--against stinky tofu that is.
Posted by: Passionate Eater | Thursday, 15 March 2007 at 08:22 PM
Ooops, I meant "couldn't," not "could." And "open-minded" not "open-minding." I think I need to get some sleep now.
Posted by: Passionate Eater | Thursday, 15 March 2007 at 08:23 PM
Hi WC - I'm not much of an intestines - kidney- liver fan, don't know why, I've just never appreciated the flavors.
Hi CP - Man you make yourself sound so very old! LOL!
Hi Jeffrey - I still remember the photos of your trip! Thanks so much for sharing them. And yes, the Missus preferred the Chou Dofu from Shau Mei.
Hi BoLA - Now why did her parents even allow her to go to school.....
Hi PE - Well, it's not that bad. But the smell of Chou Dofu is very memorable...once you smell it, you won't forget it. And get some reat(ooops rest) willya' ;o)
Posted by: Kirk | Sunday, 18 March 2007 at 07:31 PM
that Choudoufu place is so stinky it's obscene! it smells just like garbage. I've always wanted to try it, but the $4 and $6 blocks of stinky tofu seem expensive... so I never have.. and then the smell just intimidates me. Stinky toufu has numerous types, some so mild you wonder if you're eating regular fried tofu and some hideous you smell it a block away.
It is by design they have the wok up front. Sometimes they open that door and wok is completely open to the air, allowing the stinkiness to waft throughout the shopping complex.
The HK plaza is already dirty enough, one can very easily see how dirty the grounds are with just a quick glance. Allowing the choudoufu stench to spread about gives the filth a 4th dimension.
Posted by: Andy 食神 | Tuesday, 20 March 2007 at 10:27 AM
funny skunk story! i know exactly how both of you feel!
i've yet to try stinky tofu. i really have to try it soon... it's a quintissential chinese dish i've yet to try!
Posted by: Annie | Wednesday, 21 March 2007 at 10:33 AM
Hi Andy - We've been there when they've had it "opened up", I don't ever think I've ever seen a fly touch the stuff. As for the environment...I just look at it as....well, ambiance!
Hi Annie - Once you smell skunk...you never forget it! ;o) There are a few places that make pretty lousy Chou Dofu in San Diego...it's so mild, even I eat it!
Posted by: Kirk | Wednesday, 21 March 2007 at 07:25 PM