(Rail)Road Trip: Los Angeles

Over the last 5 months or so, I've been juggling a few ideas in my head. The ideas had come from a variety of sources; on my trip to Portland I truly enjoyed the walking and public transit, so I kept thinking about doing this in large sprawling LA. After all Angelinos always joke, "nobody walks in LA...are you kidding?" Then, there's Andy, the ABC, who will often catch the train down to San Diego to visit his sister. There is a third part, to be revealed at the end of the post. And finally, the fourth part, which was The Missus telling me, "why don't you just get off your butt and do it?"

And so I started doing a bit of planning back in September, and here I was at Santa Fe Depot catching a ride to Union Station on the Surfliner.

I enjoy traveling by train, the Missus and I really enjoyed taking the Coast Starlight from Seattle to Oakland a few years back.

This trip from San Diego to Union Station took about two hours and forty-five minutes, and here I was in LA:

I arrived pretty early, at about 9 am, left Union Station, and headed off in the direction of the hotel I was staying at, the New Otani. Once there, even though it was too early for check-in, I checked my bag with the Bell desk, and started on my way.

You see, I hadn't had breakfast, and my belly was starting to protest.

Unencumbered, I headed up first, and eventually arrived at the Grand Central Market on Broadway.

This bustling public market has about 40 vendors selling a variety of items.

Everything from meat to produce are sold at the various stalls.

You do see an interesting cross section of people at the market, though most of the clientele are of modest means.

I've always enjoyed all the neon signs......and of course, nowhere do the signs shine brighter than over the various food stalls.

The variety is also pretty stunning.

Though I did have something already in mind.

Yes, I'm finally getting around to the food. I decided on a Pork and Cheese Pupusa($2.00), and you could watch your pupusa being formed than made.

 

I had a seat at the "badly in need of a wiping" counter, and a container of Curtido, that pickled spiced cabbage "slaw". And in a few minutes my Pupusa arrived, which I quickly garnished with a nice amount of curtido and a touch of hot sauce.

First thing I noticed was that the masa(dough) was much lighter and not as dense as the versions I've eaten in San Diego. The filling was fine, though a little light on the cheese, and though the pupusa seemed very light, it was very hard to cut with the plastic knife...in fact I snapped the first one in half! The curtido was on the mild side, crisp, and did not have a strong pickled flavor, though it was quite refreshing.

Now properly invigorated, I stepped back out on gritty, noisy Broadway, and was on my way....

Grand Central Market
317 S. Broadway
Los Angeles, CA 90013
Open Daily 9am to 6pm

I decided that since it was still rather early, I'd walk back down to Mitsuwa Market and check out what was going on. There is one building located in that "dead area" between Broadway and Little Tokyo on Main Street.

On every trip into the area, the Linda Lea Theatre has a strange pull on me. I've always passed by, thinking that it might be gone, but it's always been there. From what I've read, the building was built in the 1920's, and in the 60's became a Japanese movie house. It has been closed since the 1980's, and reminds me of one of those sad scenes of sentimental, aged disrepair we often see in movies. After I arrived home, I found this article, and it seems things are looking up. I hope so.

I walked past the Higashi Honganji on Third Street:

I crossed the street and into the monolithic Little Tokyo Shopping Center.

And was quite surprised at how quite and almost empty the entire shopping center was, at 11am in the morning!

I decided to walk on over to Chinatown, on the way through Honda Plaza I saw a long line of people. Geez, it was like they were waiting for the second coming of Elvis or somethin'.

But no, they were in line waiting to get into Sushi Gen, at 11am!

As I was walking through El Pueblo Park, I took a short side trip to the Chinese American Museum, located in the historic Garnier Building in El Pueblo Park.

This used to be the "center" of old Chinatown in Los Angeles. Chinatown was moved to make way for Union Station and the 101 Freeway.

Here's a photo of the Nativity Scene in Plaza de Los Angeles.

I wandered up Spring Street...

And than over to Broadway. Here's the obligatory photo of the Chinese Gateway.

About this time I started getting a bit hungry, so I started through all the usual suspects Empress Pavillion, Mandarin Deli........but decided on something else. A few weeks ago Peter from Sandwich Emporium, mentioned a Filipino Restaurant, Asian Noodles, so I thought I'd give them a try.

Located on the far South end of Chinatown on Spring Street, Asian Noodles is a clean, well lit, and very modern in appearance. Signatures of Brian Viloria, Jasmine Trias, and many others decorate one of the walls in the restaurant.

Upon entering the restaurant, I noticed that the portions looked to be pretty large, and since I was on my own I needed something I could finish, and really didn't want any Mami - the Filipino Noodle soup. Now added to this was that Creen's posts on Tribu Grill, had sent me over the deep end, I decided to order the Sisig($9.95):

First thing I noticed was that this wasn't like most of the Sisig in San Diego, which tends to use left over Lechon Kawali(stewed than fried pork belly). This was without a doubt pork head, and ummm "parts". The meat was chopped and stir fried with vinegar, chilies, garlic, and other spices, onions are added, and it's served on a sizzling plate with some lemon. The flavor was on the gamier side, but not bitter, and there are a few "crunchies", but the flavor is not bad. I could've used a stronger vinegar flavor, but this dish wasn't as oily or salty as Sisig tends to be. I'd eat here again, and though the Manager is quite rude and a bit surly, the Wait Staff were very nice, especially after they saw me plow through this and a full order of rice($1.50), in about 15 minutes.

On the menu the Asian Noodles in National City was mentioned, but the menus share only a few similarities. The menu at Asian Noodles also contains a few dishes like Bicol Express that are not commonly served at the Filipino restaurants that I've been to.

Asian Noodles
643 N Spring St
Los Angeles, CA 90012
Open Mon-Wed 11am-930pm
Thurs-Sun 11am-10pm

While finishing up lunch, my partner in crime for this trip, Captain Jack of San Diego Restaurant Reviews called me on my cell. You see I had made reservations for dinner at a tiny little restaurant called:

I did take a few photos, but I don't know if anyone's interested.......

Comments

[cathy]

;)

[clayfu]

grand centra market is great. THe burritos they make are HUGE!

supposedly you're supposed to eat it like a bowl with a fork =P

[Ted]

OMG!!!!!!

I can't believe you ate at Urasawa? EAGERLY waiting the pics and review.

[RONW]

you knows Kirk I could have sworn I heard the sound of the train and the din of the marketplace, while reading the account of your road trip. Did you bump into Steinback.

[Joseph E]

What a great idea for a trip, Kirk. I've wanted to take the train from the downtown station.

You are joking when you ask "if anyone is interested," are you not? Of course we want the pictures and report!

[Oishii Eats]

SHOW ME THE PICTURES KIRK!!!

[mizducky]

Kirk, you tease! :-D

Digging the downtown LA walking tour. And I adore traveling by train. When I lived in the Northeast I used to take Amtrak all the time. Taking Amtrak up the West Coast is definitely on my to do list.

[Chubbypanda]

Muwahahahaha!

Cat and I were talking about doing this over dinner tonight. She didn't think it could be done. She grew up in LA County and learned to avoid public transit. But now we have your post to guide us. Excellent.

- Chubbypanda

[Scott J.]

Looking forward to that Urasawa post! (Did your belly burst?)

[Passionate Eater]

Beautiful pictures of L.A. Kirk. I love the picture of the L.A. skyline, and of (old and new) Chinatown, but you really transport me to Southern California with snaps of the glowing neon signs. Very cute!

Also, we need to start rating the food places with a system of napkins. If the counter is greasy and menu is sticky, we'll rank it on a scale of 1 to 5 bleach-soaked wipe cloths! Maybe Curtido warrants a 5?

[Kathy]

Hey Kirk!

You are inspiring! Given that I don't own a car, this is definitely something I could do (without having to beg someone to drive me :)) Thank you!!

[clayfu]

hey kirk for urasawa how far in advance did you need to make your reservation? i've been wanting to go there for awhile i just need to find an eating buddy that's willing to spend the money along with me =)

[elmomonster]

Oh man. Urasawa eh?! Can't wait. Like that lady in the old Mervyn's ads, "open open open".

By the way, I've been trying to comment on your blog for a week, and I've been getting flagged as a SPAMMER by the Typepad software.

I wanted to say how much I enjoyed the Missus' review. I had more to say about it earlier, but anyway...you guys are to foodies what Bonnie and Clyde are to bankrobbers!

[nhbilly]

Wow, what a tease I have been in there area when I take my mom-inlaw out. I think I should really take my time there to explore.

Thanks!

[ed (from Yuma)]

Not just pics of Urusawa stuff, but I'd love to hear your response to each and every plate you were served.

[Janfrederick]

Hi there. I love all of your reviews. I have a small child and so don't get out that often, but I love to cook. Anyone know a good Sisig recipe?

[Andy 食神]

Train trip and the New Otani.. wow! Grand Central market is spectacular.... they serve all sorts of food, but nothing is better than the Mexican food and the produce. There's a seafood stand there and they make very seafood soups Caldo de 7 Mares, Caldo de Pescado, de Pulpo... and ceiviche too.... so good yum.

that's a great find.. gotta check out that Asian noodles place. Sisig is delicous!

BTW, I heard that New Otani has a spectacular roof top grill / beer garden terrace..... did you check it out by any chance?

Looking forward to Urasawa.. supposed to make Matushisa looks like cut rate sushi right?

[clayfu]

kirk i have checked this page about 8 times today waiting for you to update with urasawa.

dont you keep me from studying for my lawschool exams!

[Kristy]

Great post! I did the walk around Downtown LA a long time ago... walked so much my feet hurt! But the buildings and different ethnic enclaves are what I love most about what makes Los Angeles - LA! Anyhow, funny how the Noodleshop is missing an "O" in its No dleshop. LOL! Anyhow, OF COURSE WE ALL WANT TO SEE YOUR URASAWA SHASHIN!!! ;)

ps) It was so good seeing you on Saturday!!! We need to do that more often! I'm heading down to SD next week???

[Captain Jack]

Hey Kirk, I just got home from West Hollywood.

Can't wait to see your photos from our trip to Urasawa.

P.S. I have the shirt you left at the New Otani.