Royal Mandarin - An "Ab-cee-dee" Fry-O-Rama

We've developed a term for restaurants like Royal Mandarin. We call them "ABCDE", that's pronounced "Ab-cee-dee", otherwise known as "American Born Chinese Dining Establishment". You know those places, no chopsticks to be found; when you ask for them and old drawer will be opened and wooden chopsticks delivered. Royal Mandarin is such a place:

Located on busy Plaza Boulevard, Royal Mandarin serves a mix of ABCDE and Chinoy type of Chinese Food. As is typical with many of these restaurants when you enter, it's as if you've stepped into a time warp; the decor screams 60's Chinese Food. This quite non-descript storefront is deceptive. Many times the restaurant is packed to the gills.

The menu here is similar to other ABCDE restaurants; namely Mandarin Canton and Golden Chopsticks. So today instead of heading over to Golden Chopsticks, we drove one block East to Royal Mandarin. We started with an order of Upside Down Crispy Noodles($7.50):

I've explained my quest for "Cake Noodles" in previous posts, and really didn't expect anything close. And was proven right again. These were just deep fried noodle cakes, with stir fried veggies, shrimp, and beef in a brown sauce, which in this case was pretty tasteless. The broccoli was cooked to perfection, cooked completely through, and still crunchy.

Salted Pepper Shrimp without Shell ($9.95), probably the most expensive dish on the menu:

These shelled and deveined shrimp were dusted with flour and deep fried, instead of being heavily battered like we're used to. So we approached this with some doubt. But the shrimp were very tasty, not overly salty, slightly sweet, and the shrimp were cooked to perfection. A good rule of thumb for restaurants like these; "when in doubt, go for the fried." If they can't do fried well, they can't do anything.

After this visit, I found out that Royal Mandarin is one of the "players" in the Best Salt and Pepper Chicken Wings sweepstakes. In fact we saw trays, and in one case a whole cart of wings leaving the premises while we ate. There is a general consensus(maybe urban legend) that the "original" Salt and Pepper Chicken Wings were first served here. So armed with this info we paid Royal Mandarin another visit.

We started with the Classic ABCDE dish, a favorite of the Missus, Wor Wonton Soup for Two($4.50):

This soup was not half bad, the broth was much better then the usual tasteless watery broth. There was nice plump shrimp and several wonton, bamboo shoots, button mushrooms, and spinach.

And of course those Salt and Pepper Chicken Wings ($6.25):

These have the same "crack-like" addictiveness as the version at Golden Chopstick. This version has less of the garlic-green onion mixture and the chicken is placed on the top of the mixture instead of visa-versa. If I were to do a comparison, I'd say, the RM's wings are more crunchy, obviously from more cornstarch, there are more drumettes instead of wing pieces, and have a more balanced flavor. GS's version has much more "punch", and alot more of the delici-yoso garlic-green onion "topping".

The real hit of the meal was the Salt and Pepper Fish Fillet($7.95):

The batter on the slices of fish had a texture between a beer and tempura batter; crunchy, light, very tasty; and the fish was so moist. Three fried salt and pepper dishes, three different batters. This was by far the best.

Now the guilt kicked in. And in our weakness we went against our normal strategy and ordered Buddha's Delight($5.50):

Blech! This vegetable dish was very bland, though the veggies were cooked well, this was a waste.

Here are a few other fried from other visits.

Salt and Pepper White Meat Chicken($5.95):

Can you say Salt and Pepper McNuggets? Too dry, same batter as fish fillet, but doesn't work here. Very bland. The price - it's cheaper then the Chicken Wings should have been a clue!

Salt and Pepper Tofu($5.25):

Though a textural delight - cubes of tofu are deep fried were nice and crunchy outside, creamy inside; this dish would be better served with a sauce. Served in this manner  it tasted rather bland. Can you say Tsoh(stinky) Tofu without the smell! Funny thing, on this visit our waitress thought the Missus was Filipino, but thought I'd want chopsticks because I was "Korean", after she found out the Missus was Chinese, they had some very nice conversations in Mandarin. The Missus noticed that a combination of Cantonese and Mandarin was spoken by the Employees. As we were leaving, we noticed a whole aluminum tray of Wings(60 pieces - just $17) sitting on a Lazy Susan on one of the tables with other dishes. There were 8 people just totally "grinding" on the wings, my kind of people! Why bother with plates - just give me a tray; I can deal with that! Also, as we were driving home, we noticed, no thirst, no swelling, it seemed that the amount of MSG in the food is pretty low, which I found to be strange considering the type of dishes we selected.

So the next time you're at a Filipino party in San Diego and the Salt and Pepper Chicken Wings are brought out, you can be pretty sure they've come from either Mandarin Canton, Golden Chopsticks, or Royal Mandarin. And when faced with an ABCDE, go first with the fried. If they can't do fried, I'm pretty sure they can't do anything!

If I can get some volunteers, I'll be willing to do a Salt and Pepper Chicken Wing tasting. Any takers?

Royal Mandarin Restaurant
1132 E. Plaza Blvd
National City, CA 91950

Comments

[Kirk]

Hi Troy - Thanks for stopping by and commenting! We just had RM wings a few days ago. I don't know what they put in those wings, but it can't be legal.....

[David]

I been there a lot of times. I have tried every single dish there!. Too bad I moved to Arizona now....You should do a review on every single food there.

[David]

I heard a rumor that they may expand more resteraunts world-wide. I hope that comes true so everyone could enjoy the food there especially the chicken wings!

[Kirk]

Hi David - I guess I'm not quite as dedicated as you! Of all the dishes I've tried, the Salt and Pepper Wings are still top. Though the Missus loves the Salt and Pepper Fish Filet.

[Cyron209]

Hiya! I was wondering if there was anything Salt and Pepper wing places worth trying in the Mire Mesa area. Again, thanks for the great reviews.. I've tried Golden Chopsticks and Royal Mandarin, and both were great! Just need to find something closer to my homebase =)

[Kirk]

Hi Cyron209 - I've never tried to find Salt and Pepper Wings in the Mira Mesa area, though I've heard that there was at least one place selling them. I was told that they were $$$, so let me look into it.

[Mary, Mary Quite Contrary]

Accidentally found your food blog while googling for RM's menu (no luck) 'cuz the hubby and I had a craving for the salt and pepper chicken wings they're obviously known for. Have been going here for twenty (holy sh*t!) years and the food hasn't changed much. They got rid of the plum sauce though =( and have since came up with a few new hits. Try the honey walnut shrimp...it's one of the most expensive items but it is so worth it. Lightly battered and flash-fried then coated with a sweet (mayo-based?) sauce, it's tossed with candied walnuts and sits atop shredded cabbage. Delicious on it's very on! Very non-traditional chinese, but os-so-good. Hope you give it a chance. I'm off to go get some of those crack wings now! =)
Love the blog spot!

[Kirk]

Hi Mary - Thanks for visiting and taking the time out to comment....you've just reminded me that I haven't had those wings for a while!

[Ed]

When are you doing your next crack chicken wing tasting?

[Kirk]

Hi Ed - I sent you an email....I hope you got it.

[Sandy]

Can I come, too? :-)

As for salt & pepper wings in the Mira Mesa area - Hong Kong BBQ inside the Vinh Hung supermarket had them on the restaurant menu. They were pretty good, but it would be interesting to do a taste comparison with the other ABCDE places you mentioned.

[Kirk]

Hi Sandy - Of course. I'll let you know...haven't heard anything yet.

[Mary, Mary Quite Contrary]

Just thought I'd let you know I visited RM last night and had a full course dinner special for $5.50!!! Warm egg drop soup followed by huge servings of mongolian beef, fried rice and three pcs. of the "crack" wings. For a $1.00 more I added two tempura fried shrimps. Two additional wings are also avialable for $1.00 more. You rarely find specials this low in price on a weekend. I also asked our waitress about one of their newest additions to the menu, salt and peppered french fries. Just your basic crinkle cut fries with the same addicting seasoning they use on their chicken wings. Our waitress said it was popular among the younger crowds. I'm going to give it a try the next time around and will let you know if they're as good as the wings. Until then, happy eatings!

[Kirk]

Hi Mary - Thanks for letting me know - that dinner sounds like a bargain! Salt and Pepper fries sound yummy - garlic fries kicked up..... Let me know how you liked them!

[Jason]

I'm comming back my whole life beacause chinese food is the best and i want the recipie for ocean valvent beacause i like seafood.

[CARLA]

HELLO...SO I HAVE BEEN READING THROUGH THE BLOGS HOPING TO SEE IF SOMEONE SLIPPED AND TOLD WHAT THE WINGS ARE MADE OF...IF ANYONE KNOWS ABOUT AT LEAST A PART OF WHAT THE INGREDIENTS ARE FOR THE WINGS PLEASE LET ME KNOW...I AM DYING OUT HERE IN MARYLAND...PLEASE HELP!!!

[Odia]

Just found your blog. I was looking for dry fried chicken wings and I'm definitely going to try this place.

BTW, originally from San Francisco, lived in Hawaii for five years, moved to San Diego last August.

Lot's of food to find!!

[Kirk]

Hi Odia - Welcome, and thanks for taking the time out to comment! Royal Mandarin is one of the favorites when it comes to those chicken wings...you'll find it at almost every Filipino party.