Andres Cuban Restaurant

**** After 40 years in business Andres has closed

After passing Andre's Patio Restaurant on Morena Boulevard hundreds of times we finally decided to drop by during the past weekend to grab some Cuban Food for lunch:

The restaurant was fairly empty except for a family of 8 having a large lunch and another couple at a nearby table. After looking at the reasonably priced menu we ordered a few "standard" Cuban dishes to get our bearings.

We started with 1 Cheese ($1.50) and 1 Beef ($1.75) Empanada:

This was a rather inauspicious start, as the Empanadas were pretty soggy. The Cheese Empanada was especially bland. We soaked the empanadas in Habanero Hot Sauce in order to make them palatable, and didn't even finish the cheese empanada. I was starting to write this place off when the Yuca con Mojo arrived, and not a moment too soon:

This wonderfully flavored dish is delicious simplicity at it's best. Simmered Yuca is served with a slightly citrusy Garlic-Herb Olive Oil, very similar to Mojo Criollo(Spanish Garlic Sauce). If you've never had yuca, it will fool you the first time you eat it. As you initially bite into the yuca, the texture is like potato; but as you bite further you realize how really dense and starchy this tuber is. Dipped into the garlic oil, it is simply delici-yoso dense and starchy goodness.

The Missus ordered the standard Cuban beef dish Ropa Vieja ($8.95):

Literally translated as "old clothes" Ropa Vieja is beef that is stewed with onions and other herbs in a tomato based, wine "sauce", then shredded. The result here is a very tender, flavorful, and rich dish. Served with nice fragrant rice and velvety black beans, that were a bit too loose, almost like a bean soup, though the flavor was nice and mild. Altogether this is what I would consider to be a very pleasant home style meal. The portion size was excellent, and I enjoyed the "peas" as well.

I ordered the usual Cuban Sandwich ($6.95):

A classic " sandwich mixto" is a pressed roast pork, ham, swiss cheese, and dill pickle sandwich, served on "Cuban Bread", and "pressed". This process creates a very crisp crust, with a somewhat gooey interior. Though this sandwich did not really meet all the criteria, it was still good. The outer portion was crusty, and the combination of flavors were excellent. The funny thing with this sandwich is that if you remove the components and tasted each individually, you really wouldn't think much of it. It's the sum of all the ingredients that makes this sandwich, and creates a nice texture and taste. I don't think the "classic" Cuban Sandwich includes mustard, but it sure worked here.

Andre's food and atmosphere does create the relaxing impression that you are just enjoying a nice homemade meal. The service, though not very friendly, and a bit on the slow side, was adequate, and I think we will be back soon. It seems that Andre's is doing pretty good business, they are expanding into the space next door, creating a larger space that looks much more refined, though I think I enjoy the casual "patio" space.

Andre's Cuban Restaurant
1235 Morena Blvd
San Diego, CA 92110

Comments

[elmomonster]

Oh man. I've been waiting for EVER to try a Cuban sandwich. The only place I know of is at Portos...in Glendale. Great post as always!

[Kirk]

Hi Elmo - Thanks, there's another Cuban Restaurant post right around the corner....

[Reid]

Hi Kirk,

Interesting take on Cuban food. I haven't eaten anything like it since I was in Miami in the early '90s. I do enjoy yucca frittas as well as plantanos. Mmmm.

I used to enjoy a Cuban sandwich with Cuban coffee (a little too sweet) for lunch on most days.

[Kirk]

Hi Reid - I really don't think that this would compare with Cuban in Miami! But it's a nice Mom and Pop place, and we finally got around to it.

[JS]

You might want to give Tropical Star a try, up on Balboa in the shopping center with Radio Shack and IHOP. It was recommended to me by a Miamian, who said it was more authentic than Andres.

That being said, there are some things at Andres I greatly enjoy. Ropa vieja is a good one. If you go back, make sure to try the Arroz Con Pollo, and the carne asada sandwich.

Also worth ordering as a side dish is Arroz Con Gandules.

[Kirk]

Hi JS - We're actually regulars at Tropical Star, we're in that Stripmall alot, because of Noble Chef - but have mostly stayed with the sandwiches there. Thanks for the rec - have you tried Tazablanca yet?

[Cara]

My intoduction to Cuban food, while not in Cuba, was in Miami, Tampa, Ybor City and West PB Florida. They all had a great selection of Cuban restaurants (my favorite is Blanca's in Tampa). I fell in love with the cuisine! I was looking forward to a similar experience at Andres but did not find the food to be on the same level as the restaurants I went to in FL.

[Kirk]

Hi Cara - It would be very hard and somewhat unfair to compare the Cuban Food in Miami, with it's vibrant Cuban community, to San Diego. Almost like comparing the amazing Chinese Food in the San Gabriel Valley to the Chinese food in Miami, or the great sushi in LA to Atlanta(where I worked for over a year). That said, we think Andre's is not bad.

[Emma]

Andres has great food, at very very reasonable prices. I'm reading a post from three years ago (2005), and the prices are almost the same. I think we should all feel so great that we have this food here in San Diego!
Buen Provecho!