Ah, yes, another beautiful Seattle morning:
Just kidding...although the drizzly weather this past Sunday sure did remind me of Seattle. When I'm on vacation I enjoy getting up early and watching the City "wake", I especially love going down to Stockton St in San Francisco, or Pike's Place Market in Seattle, early in the morning, and just watch the area slowly come alive. So this morning I decided to head down to our own Gaslamp District and give it the "tourist treatment". Also, I'd received this little brochure and map during one of the movies at the San Diego Asian Film Festival, and took some time to read it. I'd known that San Diego once had a "Chinatown" but didn't know that it had been declared a Historical District. There's also a Sunday Farmer's Market in the same area, so that sealed the deal.
I had no problem finding parking on this misty Sunday morning; but I'd arrived at about 830, so the Farmer's Market stalls were still getting set up. I just decided to grab some breakfast and take a short "tour". I started at the corner of 3rd and J Street, at the location of the San Diego Chinese History Museum.
The Museum is located in the former Chinese Mission Building. As I walked up the street I was fairly surprised at what I noticed; like the Chinese Consolidated Benevolent Association Building:
These buildings really stood out, standing beside all the downtown Condominiums and development. This area at 3rd and Island Street was the heart of Chinatown in the late 1800's and early 20th Century.
As I walked up Market Street, my stomach started growling. It was time for some grub. It was my intention to grab a bite at the The Field, my favorite Irish Pub. I'd been looking at trying one of their "boxty" breakfast's. But Sun Cafe on Market Street caught my eye:
According to what I read this building was built between 1873 and 1883, and is one of the oldest buildings in the area. The Obayashi family ran a shooting gallery and confectionary at this location, but by 1926 the soup that was served here became so popular that Sun Cafe became strictly a restaurant. The Jeong Family bought the business in 1963, and still runs the Cafe. When you enter you quickly notice the old Soda Fountain counter and the old wooden booths, it's like entering a little retro time capsule diner, circa 1950's:
I sat in one of the booths and ordered Two Eggs, Hash Browns, and Corned Beef Hash ($4.90). The food is strictly diner, and carried out in efficient form. The eggs scrambled, and there was a nice crust on the Hash. And of course, I had to have a good diner quality Cup O' Joe (70 cents):
A bit of trivia; Sun Cafe is featured in several scenes in the movie Almost Famous.
I left refreshed and ready to head over to the Farmer's Market, and so I headed back. On the way back I noticed another Museum on the corner of 4th and Island. It was the William Hearth Davis House, a saltbox style house that was built in 1850. William Hearth Davis was one of San Diego's early pioneers; but did you know he had ties to Hawaii? Well it seems that Mr Davis was 1/4 Hawaiian, his grandmother Mahi was a ward of Kamehameha I. In fact he was known as "Kanaka" Bill. His full given name was William Hearth Ko'olaupoko Mahi-Davis. Amazing what you learn by reading brochures.
At this point, I headed back to the tiny Farmer's Market:
There really wasn't much going on, and only 2 vegetable vendors, and one flower vendor, though the Crepe booth was doing good business. I did get some Dog Biscuits for Sammy and Frankie:
By this time it was almost 10am, and I started seeing alot more people. It was time to leave.
Isn't it amazing what a little pamphlet can provide. I'm looking at the stuff I usually discard quickly, a bit more closer in the future! (Except those that are handed to me in Vegas!)
Sun Cafe
421 Market St
San Diego, CA 92101
Open Daily 7am-230pm
San Diego Chinese Center Sunday CFM
4502 33rd St
San Diego, CA 92116
Hi Kirk,
Interesting history there. It's been a while since I've been to San Diego. In fact, I think that it must be at least 5 years or so. I don't remember every walking around downtown for some reason. I just remember the border and a 24-hour donut shop near my friend's apartment in Chula Vista. She lived right next door to a Mall that had a Long's Drug store!
I like that old diner. Kind of reminds me of Bert's without all the clutter.
Posted by: Reid | Wednesday, 26 October 2005 at 12:47 AM
Hi Kirk,
That was a really nice walking tour. Its good to play tourist in your own town sometimes isn't it? Looks like you got a lot crammed into one morning. Lots of interesting buildings there.
Do the farmers market stalls open late? its interesting that there were only 2 stalls when you walked there. At least your "kids" got to benefit :D
Is diner corned beef nice?
Posted by: Rachel | Wednesday, 26 October 2005 at 02:05 AM
Nice stroll. Did you take Sam and Frank with you?
Posted by: RONW | Wednesday, 26 October 2005 at 02:27 AM
Hi Reid - It is interesting, I rarely ever go to the Gaslamp - though that's where many of the Popular/Trendy restaurants are. It's usually jam-packed with people, especially during the Summer and Weekends. But after reading that pamphlet, I thought I'd check it out. Sun Cafe was kinda "Bert-ish".
Hi Rachel - Maybe I got it wrong, there were only 2 produce stalls, the rest were selling crafts, or cooked food (crepes, carne asada), or other food products, like nuts. Diner Hash, is usually pretty good, especially if they make it with a nice crust.
Hi RONW - I don't think you'd want to see Sammy & Frankie inside of a diner! Plus they're really funny - they don't like to be wet. Go figure!
Posted by: Kirk | Wednesday, 26 October 2005 at 08:29 AM
Just curious...was the hash fresh or from a can?
Posted by: Pam | Wednesday, 26 October 2005 at 02:51 PM
Hi Pam - The Corned beef was from a can - but this wasn't Alpo, oops, ahem, the canned corned beef hash, if that's what you're asking! ;o)
Posted by: Kirk | Wednesday, 26 October 2005 at 03:11 PM
I love this type of weather. Perfect for eating and sleeping!
I've never seen streets so empty of traffic! You must have taken a really early morning walk!
Thanks. That was a great post. A slice of life in SD.
I should do one of Irvine. Of course, it would not be at all interesting.
Posted by: elmomonster | Wednesday, 26 October 2005 at 03:17 PM
Hi Elmo - Well it seems the Gaslamp is really late to wake on Sundays, everybody's still recovering from all the partying the night before. You sure are right about the weather, I'm having problems waking in the morning. I'm sure you can find something really interesting about Irvine!
Posted by: Kirk | Wednesday, 26 October 2005 at 08:19 PM
Wow back in college my friends and I use to dine here for breakfast, when the Gaslamp had a grittier feel to it. Brings back a lot of memmories....lots of coffee and their breakfast specials.
Posted by: Jack | Wednesday, 02 November 2005 at 05:35 AM
Hi Jack - It had a real "old school" feel to it, real diner food.
Posted by: Kirk | Wednesday, 02 November 2005 at 08:31 AM