*** Another updated post on Sakura from 05/19/2006 can be found here. More posts on Izakaya Sakura can be found here, a lunch bento can be found here, Cathy does Sakura for lunch here.
Izakaya Sakura, or just "Sakura" to us, is one of those places dear to the hearts of Chowhounds in San Diego. And over the last 3 years or so, Sakura has developed a bit of a cult following beyond the range of the locally stationed "Salarymen" and Japanese Nationals. Located in a strip mall between two military recruiting centers on Convoy, you'd never know it's there, unless you really made a concerted effort to find it.
You'll notice, no signs, no banners, no ubiquitous "Sushi" roadside sign. In fact, I believe that Sakura is slowly collapsing upon itself in a way. I remember there being some kind of store front sign the first time I recall seeing this place. And I 
distinctly recall some signage existing as recently as last year. Now there's just the stark, plain entrance. When people ask for directions, I get to use a favorite line of mine, "when you see nothing, you're there". At least they let you know they're open!
I met Ed from Yuma in the parking lot and we walked into Sakura. Ed started moving toward his favorite position on the sushi bar (left end), but I asked him to sit on the right corner (better light), and Ed in his easy going way moved over to the right side of the sushi bar. I had wanted better light so as not to use the flash on my camera. After all, we didn't want to give the people passing by the wrong impression. That due to the flashing strobe, that there was some kind of "rave" going on inside! Actually, there was a "rave" of sorts going on, just not the dancing kind.
We started things off with Ed's favorite Tako Wasabi, real wasabi is used, so the usual edges associated with a dish of this type are rounded. I also ordered one of my favorite dishes here, Shishito Tempura. The tempura was done to perfection. The batter is light and crunchy, the Shishito has become soft and creamy, a very nice play of textures. My one problem with the dish during this encounter had nothing to do with preparation. The quality of the Shishito was not quite as good as on previous visits. There is usually a very slight heat and nice sweetness, and the seeds are soft and you almost don't know they exist. I think that the peppers were a little older this time. There were a number of hard seeds and the peppers were not as sweet as I'm used to.
Next up was the Buta Kakuni, braised pork belly, one of the standard Izakaya dishes.
There was a nice balance of flavor; shoyu, mirin, a dab of hot mustard, et al, blended together, and the pork was cooked to perfection. I think Ed enjoyed this, he ended using his chopsticks to "fish out" all the little bits that remained. As we finished our Omakase Sashimi was delivered:
Hamachi, Hamachi Toro
, Maguro Toro, and Mirugai, and most of all the headliner, Aji (Spanish Mackerel) laying in all their perfection. I don't know how, what, or where Kazu get's and prepares his Aji, but it's among the best I've ever tasted. Slightly oily, but creamy, the skin of the sashimi provides just a slight resistance, with 
just a bit of grated ginger and green onions. This is the star of the show! As we started in on the sashimi one of the waitresses came by and removed the carcass of the Aji, to return in a few minutes with the bones of the Aji fried! For many, this is the best part of the dish. Again, remaining completely in character the bones were fried to perfection. Usually there are always one or two bones that are hard and can't be eaten, not in this case however! With a squeeze of lemon and a dip in ponzu, these superlative "crackers" were delici-yoso!
You may think that this would be enough, quite a grand meal. But oh no, not for "me and Ed down at the Izakaya" (sorry Paul Simon..). Ed ordered Ika no Shiokara! For those who don't know what this is....to put it simply it's salted or fermented squid intestines.
I have had Shiokara before, and had found it to be really terrible, bitter, salty, yuck! No Mas! But this version was a revelation. Slightly salty, sweet, with a nice aftertaste. Mid-bite I asked Ed to try and describe the taste, which made him stop mid-bite as well. Kind of at a loss for words or at least colorful adjectives, I thought Umami with a touch of bitterness. This little "cup of guts" kept us occupied, grasping for a description. As Ed began to speak, I waited in anticipation for maybe an Shakespearean Sonnet or two. He answered simply, "savory". Anti-climatic, but good enough!
The last time we had sushi at a different locale, Ed noticed the Sushi Chef grating a long tubular radish looking vegetable. I told him it was naga-imo, he seemed interested. So to finish our dinner off, I ordered Maguro Yamakake. Diced Maguro is seasoned with a bit of shoyu and is covered with gluey, gloppy grated Mountain Yam (naga-imo) and topped with shredded nori with wasabi on the side. Forget the wasabi, no need for it. Naga-imo is pretty much tasteless, and looks alot like Elmers Glue, but in this mix it somehow seems to amplify both the salty and sweetness in the maguro, and the texture is unique. Another dish that's hard to describe, I think you'll need to try it to see, it was an apt end to a great meal. Thanks for coming along Ed!
Notes: Ed and I were amazed that it even though it was Wednesday, the place was packed when we left, not only with the "usual" clientele, but with a really diverse group. The price for dinner was $75, without any alcohol. There is a pretty extensive sake list, and beer and wine are available.
Izakaya Sakura
3904 Convoy St #121
San Diego, CA 92111
Hi Kirk,
The sashimi looks so fresh. My personal favorite has got to be hamachi. Yum!
Posted by: Reid | Thursday, 21 July 2005 at 09:22 PM
Hi Reid - Yes the sashimi was very fresh, Hamachi when it's good quality and fresh and buttery is an amazing thing!
Posted by: Kirk | Thursday, 21 July 2005 at 10:04 PM
I'm not keen on those things raw. But I would dearly love to try the sashimi cuts tempura battered and fried. Is that even done? Or would the waitress bash me over the head with a sake bottle if I even asked?
Posted by: Jo | Thursday, 21 July 2005 at 11:33 PM
Oh I LOVE SASHIMI!!!!!
That looks sooooo goood!
Posted by: clare eats | Friday, 22 July 2005 at 12:12 AM
Hi Jo - I've had fish tempura, but not sliced like sashimi - it would cook the fish and defeat the purpose of having fish this $$$ and fresh.
Psst Clare - I'll tell you a secret...one of the best part of this dish was the Aji bones - I've never had them prepared to this state of perfection - even the heads were totally crunchy and crisp...
Posted by: Kirk | Friday, 22 July 2005 at 08:34 AM
Ooooh. I'm one of those that loves fried fish bones...especially when it's like crackers...
Thanks for the report!
You truly are doing a great service for chowish visitors of San Diego! Like me!
Posted by: elmomonster | Friday, 22 July 2005 at 08:36 AM
Wow, I'll really have to give this place a try. Is this the same shopping center as Original Pancake House? I can't believe I never saw it before. I can't wait to try it out, I love those fried shrimp heads. Soooo good....
By the way, all your talk of banh mi compelled me to visit A Chau in City Heights. The sandwich was very good. The last bite caught me off guard because it was all pepper and the rest of it was very mild. I had a chargrilled pork and the dac biet, and both of them had a nice rich flavor. I didn't mind the doughiness of the bread that you mentioned, but I'll have to try out your other recs.
Posted by: Howie | Friday, 22 July 2005 at 08:45 AM
Regarding "Tako Wasabi", is the dish traditionally round so that you won't slice off your fingers when you grab it after biting into the wasabi? ;o) Tako is octopus right? The dish looks like a martini glass... Between that and those "MAHVELOUS" looking fermented squid entrails.... ::cough:: You need to eat more peanut butter cookies dude!
Posted by: Jo | Friday, 22 July 2005 at 08:53 AM
Mills says she would try those intestines by the way. Just as long as her hubby wasn't watching when she did!
Posted by: Jo | Friday, 22 July 2005 at 08:54 AM
I should read more carefully... it's actually the mackerel bones that are fried! I haven't tried that before. Yet another item to add to my list of things to eat before I die...
Posted by: Howie | Friday, 22 July 2005 at 08:54 AM
Hi Elmo - Yes, those fish bones!!! This was the best I've had. I've been here a few times, and almost always try to get Aji Sashimi, and it's always been good, Kazu sure knows how to pick and prepare them - but there's usually just a bit of the bones that are too tough - but this time we just ate everything!
Hi Howie - Yes, this is in the same mall - you know this place had been reviewed alot on Chowhound, but not in the last year or so - maybe I'll cross post in Chowhound. BTW, things can get expensive here....
Posted by: Kirk | Friday, 22 July 2005 at 09:05 AM
Hi Jo - Real Wasabi is very different from the powdered rehydrated stuff - basically mustard powder with additives. I'm thinking about getting some fresh wasabi and storing it at my favorite sushi bar. The Shiokara, was very good! Like I said I had it before and it was terrible. BTW, that was Ed's pick, the brave and adventurous soul that he is!
Howie - Yes, it's Aji (spanish mackerel), though - not Saba (mackeral)! The Maguro Yamakake was also really good!
Posted by: Kirk | Friday, 22 July 2005 at 09:12 AM
Kirk,
I love izakayas. And aji sashi...YUM! I love aji senbei, it's the best. Everything you guys ordered were great choices...I'm hungry now.
Jo,
Sashimi tempura!! Sacrilege!! :oD Like Kirk said you wouldn't want to use such high grade sashimi fish just to tempura it. Probably would be good though.
Posted by: jupiter | Friday, 22 July 2005 at 04:19 PM
Hi Jup - It was actually your post http://nattokun.blogspot.com/ on sushi that got me wanting this stuff in the first place! Thanks for stopping by and commenting!
Posted by: Kirk | Friday, 22 July 2005 at 04:52 PM
Wow Kirk...this is looking like a great meal in the "heatwave" that we are having here in San Diego.
Posted by: Jack | Friday, 22 July 2005 at 06:17 PM
Kirk,
*sigh* real wasabi...Where are you going to get it. I havent found it here, but then again I havent really looked. Oh the sashimi looks great! ;9 Then the meal topper you get fried aji bones, and here I am left to drool and be envious of you! Great post, and yes I would try the squids entrails but I can't eat anything raw in front of DH. *sigh* I can already here him now..."You're a microbiologist you should know better!"...But its SO GOOD! LOL Thanks again Kirk.
Posted by: milgwimper | Friday, 22 July 2005 at 07:14 PM
I wouldn't mind trying "real" wasabi. I prefer fresh horseradish as well. If you happen to come accross seed, maybe we could grow some.
AS for my love of tempura ::sniff:: ::pouts:: I feel VERY picked on! AS a REAL U.S.ofA. Suthun style rebel gal, I's believes that if it's wuth eatin, it's wuth fryin fust! So There! ::turns her back on the hopefully stunned crowd and pouts with her hands on her hips::
Posted by: Jo | Friday, 22 July 2005 at 08:46 PM
Hi Milly - Real Wasabi can be bought from http://www.freshwasabi.com/ they've been around for awhile, and are pretty reputable. I worked around medical professionals for over 20 years - everything can harm you, you need to find good reputable places that serve the food you enjoy - if you truly enjoy them, or just do without....
Hey Jack - Yes, this was a very "refreshing" meal in that sense...even the Buta Kakuni was pretty "light"! Everybody's whining about the humidity - but it's nothing like "back home" - though my tolerance is alot lower than it used to be!
Hey Jo - Wasabi is very hard to grow, it needs a very stable temp of 70-75 degrees - you can order Wasabi seeds from the same source as I mentioned to Milly. If it's really the best, you can eat it in it's most perfect state first - tell me that you'll take one of your wonderful heirloom tomatoes and batter and fry 'em up....LOL!!! As I run and call in the riot squad.....
Posted by: Kirk | Friday, 22 July 2005 at 09:43 PM
Kirk,
Thanks for the link! Yeah I know a lot of things can kill your or make you sick. I worked in the hospital for awhile, and my major punds it into yuur brain, but hey i still like to eat raw sea creatures. ;P :> My problem was letting my husband sit in on a parasitology presentation, and next I know he is giving me the evil eye. *sigh* It's not so bad, most times I just go eat with friends (not jo no raw sea food for her *wink*). *shrug* But once in awhile it puts a damper on what I want to eat. But its not so bad, but I totally agree about making sure it is a reputable place with fresh sea food.
Hmmm fresh wasabi and heirloon tomatoes...THAT SOUNDS WONDERFUL! Kirk your going to need the riot police to keep me from Jo's tomato patch. As I skillfully evade the coppers (by pure dumb luck ) while cuddling nice big fat tomatoes,"Come here my little precious tomatoes and meet Mister Wasabi and I would like to introduce you both to my stomach." hmmm ok I think I need to go to bed...
Posted by: milgwimper | Friday, 22 July 2005 at 11:41 PM
Hey, ain't ya nevuh heerd tell of Fried Green Tomatoes? Actually, I have a very old fritter batter recipe that was originally used for apples that could be modified slightly and used with tomatoes... hmmm... ::arches a brow:: You might get frittered tomatoes when you get here... Along with your beer brined chicken, baklava, deviled eggs... HEY MILLS, what kind of snacks are you bringing??
Posted by: Jo | Friday, 22 July 2005 at 11:50 PM