You basically can't walk a single block without running into something historic in Rome.
We headed back to the room to freshen up.
So where were we headed for dinner?
Because of all the Chinese businesses in the area, the Missus walked into the Chinese Market and asked the manager if there was any "great" Chinese food around. His Answer? "Ummm, they are all just about the same." So we decided on going back to the place we we started this little journey at; Da Danilo.
This time however, we'd not be strong-armed into getting all the antipasto. Even though the owner kept staring daggers at us during our stay. No, we enjoyed a nice Malvasia Bianca and the really enjoyed the main reason for returning; the Carbonara with truffle.
I'm willing to put up with the "typical Roman service" (so says Max), the pushy owner...just for this. The perfectly prepared pasta, the creamy-tongue coating sauce....the shaved truffle.
The rather bland orecchiette da danilo......
And the nice, but not outstanding braised oxtails.....
Would not be reasons to return. But that carbonara....that's a "Desert Island Dish".
Trattoria da Danilo Via Petrarca 13 Rome, Italy
And so we ended our time in Rome. Where it seems history was made on every corner.
And while the Missus wants to return to Rome; it's not high on my list. But tempt me with that Carbonara again and I might give in.
We had eaten well the night before and slept even better. The normal 5am wake up was missed and we slept in a bit.
Having your morning espresso is a good time to people watch. You gotta admit, some of these folks sure have their own...well...style. Like that guy to the right. Notice the matching outfits. Which got me to wondering...was he an accessory for the poodle, or was the poodle....well, you get the point, right?
Our first stop this morning was nearby; Esquilino Market. The area has quite an international flavor...there were quite a few Chinese businesses and we heard Mandarin being spoken from our window every evening.
There's quite a variety available.
It was a nice break.
From this point on, we past those familiar places.
I like how the place looked and later found out that the upper floors of the theatre have been converted to apartments. Pretty cool, huh? How'd you like to live in and above such an historic structure?
Trastevere and the lovely colors and lovely cobbled street turned out to be my favorite area in Rome.
I loved the lanes, the folks walking the alleyways. There seemed to be much more daily life going on here. Clothes hanging from windows, folks going on with their daily routines.
The place really has character and charm.
One turn, and suddenly we were in front of Santa Cecilia, dedicated to Saint Cecilia. The church is supposedly built upon the location of her house.
There are quite a few artifacts and artwork in the church. But it is far from being gaudy...the lines clean.
An interesting note about Saint Cecilia. She was martyred between 176 and 180 A.D. Her body was exhumed in 1599 and displayed no signs of decay! She is the first Saint whose body was found to be incorrupt.
Even though there were quite a tourists, you turn a corner and find a little alleyway that you'll have all to yourself.
There you come across little treasures like this little bakery. Which we later found out was named Biscottificio Innocenti, a very well known and regarded cookie/biscuit shop.
The Missus bought a couple and really enjoyed them.
Biscottificio Innocenti Via della Luce 21 Rome, Italy
While headed to Piazza de Santa Maria, we came across this gelato shop.
The Hazelnut Gelato I had from here was my favorite of all the gelato I tried in Rome.
Fior di Luna Via della Lungaretta 96 Rome, Italy
Of course having this refreshing gelato on the fountain steps of atmospheric Piazza di Santa Maria might have something to do with that opinion.
If Trastevere were a living organism, Piazza di Santa Maria would be its heart.
I loved the artwork of Cavallini in the apse which dates back to 1291.
By now we were getting a bit hungry, so we decided to head on back.
As we headed back toward Termini Station, I noticed the beautiful Ivy hanging on over Via Panisperna in the Monti neighborhood. Taking a look to the right, I noticed the name of a place I'd read about; Ai Tre Scalini. What luck. We were getting pretty hungry.
Basically a wine/beer bar, the place was doing some major business.
Folks seemed to be having a great time and the staff here were very friendly and helpful.
We each had a glass of wine and started in on the menu.
Knowing that we'd be having the pretty rich and hearty Roman fare for dinner, we decided on getting some charcuterie and cheese. Starting with the Salsicce al Tartufo - truffle sausage.
Which was nicely scented with truffle.
We also got the Misto Salumi e Formaggi, a huge charcuterie and cheese plate.
A nice lovely lunch.
Ai Tre Scalini Via Panisperna 251 Rome Italy
As we walked back to our room, I noticed I'd reached the point where I really started noticing things.
Soon enough, routines would start setting in. And we might even make an acquaintance or two.....
Yes, it was time for us to head out to our next stop. But not before dinner.........
We arrived back in Rome and got on the Leonardo Express to Termini Station. Like I mentioned before, that this short leg is a total joy...super easy and relatively quick.
Getting back to the place we were staying at near Termini Station; B&B Civico 31, we were greeted by one of the owners, Max, with a "welcome home". Max is a great guy, he did it all. We got back and asked where the nearest laundry was. His response, "you need something washed? Give it to me; I'll have it done....." Which he did. At no charge! Whenever I mentioned a neighborhood place; he's ask if we wanted to make reservations....which he would do! Amazing.
The room we stayed in....on both legs of our trip were comfortable. The décor features vintage Italian movie posters...which I found kind of neat.
We had our general directions fairly straight and were now finding different ways to get to where we wanted to be.
The day had started out sunny, but that changed on a dime as rows of clouds would pass over with scattered showers.
So the Missus decided that we should head up to the Capitoline Museums, up Capitoline Hill. This is where it is claimed the first museum in the world was open to the public in 1734.
You know you've finally made it to the top when you see the Statue of Marcus Aurelius. You've reached Piazza del Campigdoglio.
This statue is actually a replica. The original stands within the museum.
It was a great way to spend an early afternoon.
We managed to dodge the passing showers and spent the rest of the day wandering around.
By dinner time, we're talking 8pm, still on the early side, I was famished. Max had made reservations at a rather close, highly regarded Trattoria. Apparently, he went to school with one of the owners, so getting us a table, especially "early" at 8pm was no problem.
You will find Trattoria Monti mentioned everywhere. The cuisine is based on the family's region of origin, Le Marche. The service was the friendliest and warmest we had during our entire time in Rome. There's a certain somewhat jaded attitude we perceived in Rome....what Max calls "typical Roman service". And I can certainly understand how tiring it can get based on questions we heard tourists asking, "what is truffle?" "Why don't you have gluten free pasta?" What is truffle? Yikes..... the folks at Monti just took it in stride, smiled, and laughed with the customers. They took the time to explain the food of the region to folks to help them try to understand.
One of the items "to get" here are the sformatini; called "flan" on the menu. Sort of like a savory bechamel - egg based custard. We got both the radicchio and the red onion versions. Both came with a nice, thick, cheese sauce, which didn't detract from the flavor of the "flan".
While both were good; it was the savory-sweetness and the texture of the caramelized onions in the red onion version that put it at the top of our "best things we had in Rome" list.
Another signature dish of Trattoria Monti is the Tortello. Basically a large stuffed with ricotta and egg yolk; I was a bit disappointed with this one. While I enjoyed the sauce; it had a nice balance of acid-tartness-sweetness-herbaceous flavors, with a nice texture and the ricotta added a mild salt and milky component....the egg yolk was hard and overdone. Knowing how much I love a runny yolk; which I understand this should be (though not overly so). I felt the dish was incomplete.
The Missus ordered Roast Suckling Pig with Baby Potatoes.
And while the suckling pig was just ok; a bit on the dry side, the skin more rubbery than crisp. Those potatoes were very good; almost buttery....the Missus asked how they made the potatoes....the response? "You come tomorrow at three o'clock and we show you!" Classic.....
I got the Fried Lamb Brains with Fried Zucchini.
I'm not the biggest fan of organ meats....well, check that. There are certain organ meats and preparations I don't care for. Sweetbread and brains, so long they aren't too rich and overpowering aren't one of them. I liked the richness of these. The Missus thought the flavor edged on the "metallic/iodine" side and didn't care for them. The fry job was perfect....not too hard as we found in other places in Rome.
We enjoyed our meal at Trattoria Monti. We found the staff here to be friendly, the food good, and we'd gladly return. The prices were also quite good.
On our third day in Rome, we set out for Vatican City. The Missus wanted to walk there...from Termini Station. We had the metro one block away! Luckily, I got myself out of a 5k walk first thing in the morning and we caught the metro. From the metro station, the walk to the gates of Vatican Museum took about ten minutes.
When it comes to most of our travel; the Missus tells me what She wants and I do the logistics, planning, and She just basically shows up. The visit to the Vatican Museum was a good example. I got tickets online ahead of time....we entered right when the place opened, going to the line for "Entrance with Reservations". We grabbed a map and headed to the one place the Missus really wanted to see; the Sistine Chapel, where we stood alone in the rare air where the Papal Conclave takes place. The Missus just stood staring at the ceiling as other visitors piled in around Her. I took a seat after a minute or two, when my neck started stiffening up. I grabbed the Missus to leave when I heard "huuuuaaackkk p-tew".....one of the Chinese tourists had just spit on the floor of the Sistine Chapel! Good lord!
The rest of my time in the Vatican Museum was a blur of antiquities, lavish paintings, just an astounding amount of items on display. I was overwhelmed by the extravagance. I kept telling the Missus, "geeez, these folks sure have a lot of money..."
I do recall enjoying the ceiling art and spent a good deal of time just enjoying those and the paintings over doorways.
I think one needs to spend a least a couple of days here if you really enjoy this stuff. I'm sure Ed from Yuma could probably walk these halls for months!
Anyway, we worked our way back to the beginning and started out with the Egyptian Rooms, officially called the "Gregorian Egyptian Museum", which were among my favorites. After all, who doesn't like mummies, right?
I found the various hieroglyphics and of course the mummies fascinating....it touched off a the faint flicker of the little boy in me, who would spend hours pouring through books at Kaimuki Library.
The Egyptian's deities manifested themselves as various animals based on characteristics. The God Apis took the form of a bull.
I was quite fascinated with these displays.
Things just seemed really packed in.....there was something to see everywhere...
Then we went through the halls with Greek and Roman sculpture. Tons of statues....my head was spinning.
One of the most famous statues is Apollo Belvedere which was once considered to be the most aesthetically perfect sculpture of a man after being found in Italy in the 15th century.
Right past all of this was an interesting area called the "Hall of Animals". The Vatican Museum's website states that the hall "was set up under Pope Pius VI (1775-1799) with antique works of art, often much restored and sometimes completely re-worked, with the aim of creating a 'stone zoo'. Many artists worked on the sculptures in this display during the 1700s, the most important of whom was Francesco Antonio Franzoni."
On your way to the Round Room, you'll be confronted with this remnant. This fragment of a statue known as the Belvedere Torso has been revered through the centuries by Raphael and even Michaelangelo, who it was rumored, was asked to restore the statue by Pope Julius II, but refused saying it was too beautiful to be changed. He is quoted as saying, "This is the work of a man who knew more than nature!” It is said that the torso was an inspiration for Adam in Michelangelo's fresco in the Sistine Chapel.
Right past this sculpture is the "Round Hall". Here's a panoramic shot that you can click on to expand.
Look familiar? Well, it was built to resemble the Pantheon.
By this time Museum fatigue was setting in. I pretty much stopped taking photos and it's quite telling that one of the few photos taken by the Missus was Rapheal's "The Liberation of St Peter".
The one thing the Missus, a fan of Angels & Demons, had to take a photo of was the Double Helix Staircase.....which is how you exit the Vatican Museum.
Next up was St Peter's Basilica, which was easy to find. Just follow the crowds.
St Peter's Square is quite impressive....and crowded.
And of course, to get into the Basilica, you had to go through security and metal detectors and all of that as well.
It was getting to be a pretty warm day. The security points for St Peter's were moving quite slowly. Then, a group of Chinese tourists pushed their way to the front of the line, and tried to just walk through security. The guards rushed up, linked their arms and physically pushed back the crowd. Then they closed the gate......I don't know if it was protocol or just spite, but man, I was just over it. Now don't get me wrong, the Missus is Chinese, as you all know if you've read long enough, from Qingdao. None of Her family, or even family friends who have visited act this way. 'Nuff said.
Anyway, by the time we got to St Peter's, I'd had my fill of the crowds, the heat, etc....
Still, the Missus has always wanted to come here. And I truly want the Missus to see and visit everyplace She's dreamed of. I hope that Vatican water tasted sweet.....
By now we were both starving.........but I had a place in mind. One that had been on my lists for ages... Pizzarium.
This place takes Pizza al Taglio - pizza by the slice to the next level with some wonderful ingredients. You just tell the guy behind the counter how much you want....it's really hard not to go overboard.
While it was still a bit too "bready" for our tastes, some of the ingredients were wonderful and we especially loved the tomato sauce....man, that was nice.
The prosciutto....the greens with the mozzarella...really good. Worth the 15 minute walk from the Vatican. Plus, the Cipro Metro Station is close by.
Pizzarium Via della Meloria 43 Rome, Italy
Returning to our room, I badly needed a shower. After that and rehydrating, we headed off, just to hang around the area near Termini Station.
And have a little snack.....
After taking quite a long walk, we decided to stop by the nearest Hosteria and have a simple meal.
Sometimes those spur of the moment places work out quite well. Some times not. Having no idea of this place....well, it was the latter.
Oh well, sometimes you win, sometimes you lose, right?
Man, that carbonara was not to my liking....so I guess this was a lose.
It was not quite the send off I wanted. The next day, we'd be back on the Leonardo Express, then to our flight to Malta....yes, Malta.
Good morning/afternoon/evening. You have found mmm-yoso!!! a food blog. Kirk is extremely busy with work and Ed(from Yuma) is extremely busy with retirement. Cathy, who is also extremely busy, is writing today.
We had some heavy rainstorms back in January and The Mister and I were driving on side streets instead of freeways, finding ourselves in El Cajon one morning.
In the mall on the curving corner of Jamacha Road ending, turning into the 94 (just before the Cuyamaca College entrance) are many businesses. Right next to the Ralphs Grocery store (across the parking lot from McDonalds), I had spotted this restaurant for a few years now. We saw people walking in and decided to park and follow.Once seated (in the 'outside' area, which had heat lamps and protection from the rain), we ordered a cappuccino ($3.75) to share while perusing the menu, which mentions 'local farm to table cuisine'. It was excellent, as was the regular coffee.Indeed, we were some of the first customers of the day, since Dolci opens at 8 on weekends for breakfast (9 during the week). Dolci Benedict ($10.95) was prepared with perfectly poached (organic) eggs on top of toasted ciabatta with pancetta, gorgonzola, spinach and a pesto hollandaise. Served with country potatoes and seasonal fruit, this was tasty and yet another version of Benedict we enjoyed.The description of the stuffed salmon crepes ($11.50) had me curious. Smoked salmon, cream cheese and scrambled eggs, overfilling two delicate, slightly sweet crepes and topped with a very thin slice of smoked mozzarella cheese...the blend of flavors was just right (I had feared that the smoked cheese would be overwhelming but instead it was flavor enhancing, because it was very thin).
All in all, an excellent breakfast. We are already planning lunch and snacks here.
Dolci Cafe Italiano 2650 Jamacha Road #121C El Cajon, CA 92019 (619)660-2012 Website (there is loud music involved when you log on)
The Missus and I have always said that Seattle is one of our favorite cities. I had even considered moving here before I met the Missus. We've always enjoyed the personality and vibe of the city; the unpretentious, tolerant, down-to-earth, polite, though perhaps a bit introverted folks..... We used to visit every year and our best visits were during the holiday season, so shame on us for not visiting since 2007. And double shame on us for not visiting during the end of fall/beginning of winter in 10 years!
There have been alot of changes in the 7 years since we visited, the very inexpensive Link Light Rail route from SeaTac to Downtown Seattle didn't even exist back then. Now it's an inexpensive $2.75 from the airport. I'd have never even considered staying near Pioneer Square when I first started visiting in 1993, yet here we were dropping off our luggage at the Courtyard Pioneer Square. It was easy making eating plans for this trip. Included in those plans was a visit to the Walrus and the Carpenter. The Missus jumped at the plan, since most of our past trips have kind of revolved around oysters. Of course She had Her own little twist on things. I've long mentioned various "death marches" the Missus had taken me on. Well, this time the Missus had an urban version planned.
She wanted to walk from Pioneer Square to the Walrus and the Carpenter. A walk of approximately 5.72 miles. In Seattle, in winter, yikes!
Just for kicks, I posted the question of this walk on the Chowhound Seattle Board. Unlike some of the other CH boards, the folks here seemed quite helpful. I didn't expect 20+ answers....such varied opinions, from being a terrible (read: a nice way of saying certifiably insane) idea, about 50%, to being an urban adventure. As a joke, I mentioned the comment about going to Fremont, since the Missus had never seen The Fremont Troll. Well, She was all in....which made the walk over 7 miles long! Double sigh.....
Still, we were to start at Salumi. We'd never had a chance to check out this very popular shop, so I was more than happy to start here.
I was told that there's always a line at this shop run by the Batali family....yes, that Batali family. It's an interesting story that you can read here. So, of course there was a line, which moved very quickly, with folks replacing those in line at about the same pace.
I've read rave reviews about the pochetta and all that stuff, but this is a salumi shop. Plus, the Missus doesn't eat much bread these days, so the salumi plate ($13) was an obvious choice. Man, this was good, nice, distinct, yet balanced flavors to all the salumi. And only $13??? Boy, does what we had at S&M recently seem highly over-priced. My favorites? I loved the addition of a hint of curry to the traditional fennel salame, the Finnocchiona Salame. The flavors of the Agrumi Salame, hints of citrus, also was fantastic.
The beef tongue is not sold by weight, so we ordered a sandwich ($10). The tongue was very nicely flavored, beefy, not too salty, nice seasonings, fantastic tender texture. It's a bit too much bread for my taste and I felt bad about not eating it all....but I just couldn't do it; especially after the Missus ate all of the meat of one half the sandwich. A bit too much olive spread for me as well. The ratio is kind of off....but oh man, that beef tongue.....
On a whim, the Missus ordered a single meatball ($2.50) and it was love at first bite.
I loved the sauce, it had just about the right balance for my tastes.....simple, tangy, lightly sweet, that flavor of sunshine.....
The woman managing the orders was very nice. The place is super packed, so she told us to sit at the "front table", which is basically the front display window. Kind of odd and cool at the same time. You feel like some kind of window display and yet, it's interesting to people watch.
We really enjoyed our meal and we look forward to returning next time. More meatballs for the Missus.
Salumi Artisan Cured Meats 309 3rd Ave S Seattle, WA 98104 Hours: Tues - Fri 11am - 330pm
After this, the death march ensued. We basically headed straight down 2nd, past all those familiar places. Up Pine, past Westlake Center and one of the places we used to stay at; the Westin, swinging around back and down Westlake Avenue which used to look a bit more industrial, but now there quite a bit of construction going on. And I swear, the Space Needle used to seem a lot farther away than this......
And when did Whole Foods get here? Must be after 2003 which was the last time around these parts.
This can only mean one thing.....this part of the Denny Triangle is obviously doing well. I was told all the construction going on in the distance were buildings for Amazon in Belltown....
As for the three fairly odd statues right outside, they are works by ceramic sculptor, Akio Takamori, named "Young Woman, Girl, Mother and Child".
From here we passed a ton of newer buildings, intertwined with more industrial businesses like a Firestone Autocare, before arriving at Lake Union.....
And all those houseboats.....
It started drizzling a bit more.....though temperatures weren't too bad....in the mid-high 40's. We hastened our pace a bit, before finally coming to the Fremont Bridge and that sign I love.....
Of course, after crossing we'd have to climb up to visit The Fremont Troll under the Aurora Bridge which is on North 36th Street.
After crossing the Fremont Bridge, I was a bit wet and somewhat sweaty....it was time for a break. We stopped at Milstead & Co, the Missus had a coffee and I some iced jasmine tea, which really did the job.
We then hikes up the hill, to visit the troll, who seemed to have a mesmerized fan.
The young woman in a blue coat, who looked Japanese, just sat very still and quiet, like she was trying to communicate with the beast crushing a VW. She moved not an inch....she was quietly sitting in place when we left. For all I know, she might still be sitting there, meditating in front of a troll.
Down 36th Street is another of Fremont's "(in)famous" art pieces.....
Yep, that's a statue of Lenin (not Lennon), as in Vladimir, wishing you Merry Christmas. The story of how this statue made it from Poprad, Czechoslovakia (now Slovakia) to its current resting place is quite interesting. It's funny how you find little threads if you travel enough, this statue which was in front of Poprad's Lenin Sqaure was removed during the Velvet Revolution, which I mentioned in a previous post about Prague.
It was just about 310......and so it was time to head off to our dinner destination.....which was a "mere" 1.9 miles away! Lovely.....
And so we walked on, past the Bev Mo and and the Fred Meyers....and all those industrial areas in between. I'd never been to the Ballard area before....but knew that as long as we saw the #40 bus, we'd be ok. Walking along Ballard Avenue NW, I knew to look for the sign... The Missus walked right pass, but I knew what to look for.
You then had to go down a hallway and at the end you hit paydirt.
It was 345, we'd done pretty good time, about 35 minutes. We were the third party in line(no reservations at this small place)...not bad. I went down the stairs to the restroom, following one of the guys who exiting the restaurant. I was a bit wet and somewhat sweaty from the walk and the drizzle. The guy asked looked at me and said, "drizzling down a bit out there?" I told him that it was a combination of things since we walked here from Pioneer Square, via Fremont. "You what? "I heard that this was where we needed to come for oysters...." "Ok, then, you'll be happy, we got some good oysters tonight." Nice guy! I got myself a bit more presentable and headed back upstairs.
We were asked where we'd like to sit and requested a seat at the bar, which turned out to be a great decision. Remember the guy in the restroom? Well, he was the one working the raw bar..... I just knew this was going to be a nice meal. After all, we were here for the oysters, all local, no middle men, no brokers........
The restaurant itself is tiny, cramped, but warm and inviting and without pretense....like I guess what your little secret neighborhood spot serving world class seafood would be like.....
As for the oysters.....well, I asked for recommendations, describing that I enjoy the finish that's interesting and more on what I call the "nutty, rare beef side", though I appreciate that cucumbery flavor as well. David, our master shucker, chose us, "the oysters he would choose on the menu today."
The first dozen were composed of Treasure Cove, Blue Pool, and Baywater Sweet. The Missus immediately took to the Treasure Cove, which took real well to the mignonette. When it comes to good oysters, I just do a drop or two of lemon, it does just enough to balance out the salinity for me. I just took to the finish on the Blue Pool, it was sort of funky, slightly nutty, with a deep and long lasting finish..... it was just what I'd been wanting.
Meanwhile, our first garde manger dish arrived; the Duck Breast, rockwell beans, masutake mushrooms, sea wolf croutons, and tarragon.
In terms of what we had, this was the weakest dish; but by no means was it terrible, it's just that the duck breat was dry and lacking in the duck flavor we enjoy. The masutake mushroom and especially the beans were the stars of the dish for us. Loved the use of tarragon as well.
The beef tartare was very nice.
Buttery, with a clean, refreshing finish. This went very well with the rye toast and is osmething I'd have weekly if I could.
Our second dozen oysters; Nordic Knute, North Bay, and a repeat of Blue Pool.
I still loved the Blue Pool.....
The Missus demanded equal time, so we got another dozen with Her favorite, the Treasure Cove, plus the Hove Cove and one of my old favorites the Hama Hama.
The Hama Hama had that almost acid like citrus flavor I recall, but the Treasure Cove were still the favorite of the Missus.
Meanwhile, we got to chatting a bit with the master of the raw bar between plates. He was super fast and shucked with amazing ease. Anyway, "David" is David Leck a champion shucker. If you'd like to see him doing his thing, check this out.
We had a great time...... we loved the oysters, the vibe, the folks working here.....they have a great cocktail program and a nice wine list....but I wish they'd do a bit more with the beer program.
Still, when in Seattle, we'll be back. David made it a great night for us.
The Walrus and the Carpenter 4743 Ballard Ave NW Seattle, WA 98107
Speaking of beer. A bit further up the street is a beer bar named The Noble Fir. We stopped by....because; well, I wanted a beer. Luckily they were having a nice progressive. Which I enjoyed while the Missus went meandering around the local shops.
Anyway, the big name in the progressive was the Bourbon County Imperial Stout, boozy, with coffee-caramel-molasses tones, and a boozy hit. It was a bit too much for me, but the Missus really liked it. She also had a Blueberry Ale from Cascade brewing.
Funny, the thing I enjoyed most about the place was the great 80's music they played!
The Noble Fir 5316 Ballard Ave NW Seattle, WA 98107
After our liquid refreshment, we walked over to the bus stop and caught the 40 back to downtown Seattle. The Missus, still believing we needed "more exercise", decided that we should get off at 3rd and Virginia. Which was kind of nice, since we'd get to enjoy the walk through downtown and those sights we'd gotten used too.....
Years ago, we flew into Seattle right after Thanksgiving and ran into a Holiday Parade. At the end, the star at Bon Marche was lit. So even though it's now Macy's, it's still the Bon Marche star to us.
You never know what you'll run into in downtown. On this night it was a Ferguson protest.....
We skirted the protest, which seemed very peaceful and headed down 2nd......past some very familiar sights.
And some that weren't around the last time we visited.
Making back to our hotel. It had been what seemed to be a long day, but it was barely 8pm! I dunno.....maybe old age is settling in, but all that walking....perhaps 9 miles or so really wiped me out!
Still, it was nice to be back in Seattle and we were eating well!
I realize this was a supr long post. Thanks for reading!
At the end of Part 1, we had just finished our carb load. The Missus was now ready to find the Trevi Fountain. Somehow we ended up backtracking until I recognized the Church of San Luigi dei Francesi which is right next to the Senate Building, you'll see all those sedans with blacked out windows and guys in suits standing around along with tons of police.
Also, it always pays to "look up" when you enter. This ceiling was done by Domenichino.
We wove our way along side street, basically following the crowd and eventually we ended up at what is probably one of the most famous fountains in the world, the Trevi Fountain, which took 30 years to finished, was completed in 1762. The actual name of the fountain - "tre vie" explains a lot as the location was at the junctions of three roads.
So that's a classic photo of the fountain. However, I want you to actually have a feel of being there...along with a jillion other toursts. So I thought this might give you some idea of what it's like being here.
This one was also quite beautiful and there was a service going on.
After the service, one of the older priests stopped to talk with a woman who was sitting in the back. All that art work and stuff is great, but scenes like this are priceless.
Then of course there's the Spanish Steps, named for the Spanish Embassy which these steps linked to the Holy See. Let's just say the place is pretty popular.....
Folks just seem to congregate here....whether to channel their inner Audrey Hepburn, or just to contemplate the world, I guess there's some romantic pull to this place.....
Speaking of romantic pull. Look closely in the photo above.....do you notice the young woman in the wedding gown and the older man, whom I'm assuming is her father in the suit? Here have a closer look....it seems they're shooting wedding pictures? Along with several thousand absolute strangers.....kinda strange, but kind of well, cute in a way.
Speaking of romantics, I believe that cream colored building to the right in the photo above is where the Poet John Keats died of TB in 1821 at the young age of 25.
We took a walk down the side streets, window shopping and looking around, but the crowds finally got to us. We marched up the Spanish Steps and down Via Sistina. We'd decided to head back to our room near Termini Station and get some rest.
Remember the "Lisbon Rule".....whenever we'd start getting a bit tired and perhaps flustered it would be time for a Pastel de Nata and some espresso? Well, when in Rome....do gelato.....
This did the trick.....
We headed to Termini, the long way....stopping at "Our Lady of Victory" or the church more widly known as Santa Maria della Vittoria.
This was (yet another) stunning church. The fresco to the left, named "The Virgin Mary Triumphing over Heresy and Fall of the Rebel Angels".
The most eye-catching item in the church is the sculpture called the Ecstasy of Saint Teresa by Bernini. The scluture depicts a moment from the autobiography of Saint Teresa of Avila of a vision where an angel pierced her heart with a golden shaft....the moment, one of great pain and joy.
"I saw in his hand a long spear of gold, and at the point there seemed to be a little fire. He appeared to me to be thrusting it at times into my heart, and to pierce my very entrails; when he drew it out, he seemed to draw them out also, and to leave me all on fire with a great love of God. The pain was so great, that it made me moan; and yet so surpassing was the sweetness of this excessive pain, that I could not wish to be rid of it."
Wow...intense. It was time for another gelato.
Actually, I needed a bit more than some gelato. I was getting pretty hungry. So we walked past the Piazza de Republica and on to Via del Viminale. There stood the little shop named Er Buchetto. The place really lives up to it's name, the little hole in the wall named "the little hole". Er Buchetto does porchetta....and had been doing it for 5 generations.
So while the Missus went window shopping, I had a pile of roasted pork and a cup of the house red. While a lot milder in flavor than I thought it would be, it had a nice porkiness, the skin more crisp than hard, it wasn't greasy, but the meat was on the dry side. It was super cheap at under 5 euros....
I did love the porchetta box......as said pork product had a wonderful window seat.
Er Buchetto Via del Viminale 2F Rome, Italy
We finally made it back to our room....and a short nap. After waking, we walked around the neighborhood a bit. We were both amazed at all the Chinese businesses in the area. We stopped by one of the markets where the Missus asked the guy at the register if there were any Chinese places he'd recommend. His answer, "no, they are all the same.......not very good, it's better to eat at home!"
Fried by the busy day, we opted for a nearby Osteria, basically a simple eating establishment. A short menu, nice folks, good, simple food.
The gnocchi was pillowy and tender.
My lamb was tender, nice and gamey.
Nice meal, with some simple table wine, just what we wanted.
Osteria Angelino dal 1899 Via Machiavelli 64 Rome, Italy
So that's kind of what a typical travel day with the Missus is like.
I keep looking at all these photos of Rome and thinking, well one of these days. There was so much we saw, but it also seemed so hectic. I usually will look at a set of photos and the sights, smells, sounds, tastes, pop out and just like that; I have a post. This one had to really pared down......in the end, I thought this would be a nice description of what a typical vacation day with the Missus is like. It makes a nice C(learing) O(ut the) M(emory) C(ard) post.
As is the norm, we woke quite early on our first full day in Rome. I actually got up at 5am and did a post from our room. The Missus woke a bit later and we were headed out before 7. The Missus had a basic list of places to check out and we'd be walking to them all.
So we headed off from Termini Station down the street.
Pst the Colosseum and the Forum......
Skirting Palatine Hill and the Victor Emmanuel Monument.....
And we ended up at Saint Andrea della Valle, Piazza Navona was just a short walk from there. It was pretty quiet at Piazza at that time.
The Missus was determined to get to the Pantheon when it opened. So we walked on over and found that we were still quite early. So we walked over a block to Santa Maria sopra Minerva.
First thing on my mind was....what's up with the Elephant Obelisk, what does it represent? Well, apparently, this obelisk was one of two brought to Rome by Emperor Diocletian from Egypt sometime during his reign between 284 - 305AD. The obelisks were built during the reign of Pharoah Apries around 570BC. The Elephant was designed by Bernini and sculpted by Ercole Ferrata, completed in 1667. The Missus has a thing about obelisks....I'm really afraid to ask really. I will say, this is my favorite one...though I'm still not sure what it all really means.
The church itself is built over the ruins of a temple to the Egyptian Goddess Isis.
As with many of the various churches in Rome, of which there are over 900, most with a rich history, and tons of relics. Santa Maria sopra Minerva was once the center of the Dominican Order, so it makes sense that Saint Catherine of Siena is buried here....well, not all of her. Her head is interred at the Basilica of San Domenico in Siena.
We returned to the Pantheon, which still wasn't open, and decided to just have a cup of coffee and chill. There seemed to be quite a few "locals" walking their dogs, chatting, and generally giving the place a very relaxed feeling.
And yes, that's a obelisk and fountain the front of the Pantheon. This one was built by Ramesses II and was taken from the Temple of Ra in the ancient city of Heliopolis.
Soon enough, folks started lining up in front of the huge doors......
Anyway, here we were, standing in front of the huge bronze doors of the Pantheon. A little gentleman comes out to open up...and can't budge the doors. He recruits a bunch of us to push open the doors. Which we do. Oh man, talk about a thrill....I helped to push open the doors of the Pantheon! I immediately asked the Missus if She got a photo; "oh, I was so excited for you....I forgot!"
Click on the photo above to enlarge....this is one of the few places that really impressed me more than what I had read.
A few minutes later the place started getting crowded. It was time to leave. Outside, all the locals had disappeared as tourists descended on the Pantheon. I'm glad we had arrived early.
We headed back to Piazza Navona which was starting to pick up.
There are three fountains which grace the square, this is the one on the North, the Fountain of Neptune.
We decided to back track and headed to Campo de Fiori, literally translated to "Field of Flowers". I read that in the Middle Ages, the area was actually a meadow. It now houses a daily flower and vegetable market....kind of touristy. pretty pricey, but still fun.
Right on Campo de Fiori resides a place that is pretty much legendary, Forno Campo de Fiori, a little bakery and shop.
The Pizza Bianca was good, initial crunch, a bit too chewy for my taste, very soft interior.....kind of bland though. The pizzas, were, well, kind of disappointing, hard, greasy....probably because they seemed to have been laying out for a while.
Forno Campo de' Fiori Campo de' Fiori 22 Rome, Italy
Since it was now my turn for the time being, we headed off down Via dei Giubbonari, one of the side street off of Campo de Fiori. A little street lined with shops and cafes. Along the way we passed a little cul de sac, which had....what else, a church.
This little church is Santa Barbara dei Librari - the church for booksellers!
I loved this little three panel wooden painting, called a triptych. I later read that it dates back to the 15th-16th century.
When we hit the cross street of Via dei Chiavari, I found the other place I wanted to try. My good buddy Candice told me that she preferred Antico Forno Marco Roscioli.
About this time I figured out that pizza bianca would make a perfect sandwich....which it did.
I did notice that the pizza bianca here was less oily and had a better crunch.
I thought the marinara pizza was pretty good as well.
Antico Forno Marco Roscioli Via dei Chiavari 34 Rome, Italy
As you notice....these were the days before the Missus really clamped down on carbs. And yet, with this walking, I still lost weight!
Bolstered by carbs and caffiene we headed off to find the Missus's next target....where was that darn Trevi Fountain?
Thanks for stopping at mmm-yoso!!! and reading about food. Right now, Kirk is enjoying life with His Missus, Ed (from Yuma) and Tina are treasuring moments together and Cathy and her Mister are sharing a memory with you.
If you live in San Diego, you've seen it in passing. Perhaps when exiting the PCH going toward Liberty Station/Point Loma/Rosecrans. Note the second floor- the family owns and lives in this building. Maybe when heading South toward downtown/the 5, this signage on the other side of the building made you mildly curious. It doesn't look fancy, seems to have always been there...Walk in and take a step back into time. That newspaper article is dated May 1979 and it's about this 'new' Restaurant which had opened in 1978, run by two brothers and a sister. The brothers moved back to Sicily in 1998 and the sister and her family have been running Volare ever since.The interior decor is dark, music from the soundtrack of the movie The Godfather is subtly playing in the background...nice and clean. Tablecloths, as always. Nothing fancy: just good.
Yes, those whiteboard specials are inexpensive. If you arrive here around opening (11 p.m. M-F) the entire restaurant will be filled with employees and their visitors from the nearby SPAWAR building as well as people from other offices and nearby businesses waiting for a seat. The 'locals' start arriving around 1 p.m. as the lunch crowd is leaving. Evenings/weekends can be similarly crowded. Know that the kitchen makes each item to order, not much is pre-made. If you are very hungry, order an antipasto or salad to munch on while waiting for your food to be prepared.The antipasto ($4.50, small; large is $5.95). A mild and a spicy salami, cheese, two types of olives, marinated celery and carrots and the usual lettuce/onion/tomato are topped with a balsamic. This (and almost everything here) is accompanied by fresh/warm bread.This day had me craving the 'cazzerola' ($5.95) from the white board at the door (especially since I read starting at the bottom)-both lasagna and eggplant baked casserole style (I enjoy every type of baked pasta when given a choice). You can see in the cross section that the items were stacked. Excellent flavors of each item separately, crispy eggplant, the sauce, the cheese. Seriously good.This was a Friday meal and The Mister ordered from the lunch menu (Click onto the small photo at the bottom of this post). This is a 'small' Cioppino ($7). Sicilian style, served on top of fresh cooked al dente noodles, the seafood selection cooked in a slightly spicy garlicy tomato sauce was perfect. Yes, you see mussels, shrimp, scallops, squid rings and baby squid.
This truly is a great 'old school' place with great food. We've had other meals here and I'll be sharing more menu items...know all the food is good and not fast food at all, no matter the time of day.
Volare Italian Family Restaurant 3528 Barnett (between Midway and Jessop Lane)San Diego 92110 (619)224-0030 Open M-F 11-10, Sat-Sun 4-10
Noticing that I tend to blog about places no other food blogger has reported on, I was so happy to find this post from Mary 2008 and notice that Dennis had this on his menu blog in 2009, which means he's also been here.
Just about everyone I know who has travelled has been to Rome....really. There's so much to see....a bit too much...the crowds, the scams (impersonating police seems to be just fine with local authorities), the somewhat jaded attitude toward visitors..... And yet, Rome is full of history, chock full of amazing sights....
If I were to do posts on everything we saw and ate in detail....well, it would be too much. So I've decided to most of these as sort of a C(learing) O(ut the) M(emory) C(ard) posts and keep the verbiage to a minimum.
So, we arrived. The Leomardo Express from the airport is a total joy, like much of Europe, public transportation is excellent. We stayed at a "B&B" close to Termini Station, the one great thing about the place was the person who ran the whole operation. More on that later.
You know the Missus by now right? We dropped things off and were off to the races! With something quick to eat of course...
The Missus doesn't have the best sense of direction; so the thought of having a map in Her grubby little hands would usually send chills up my spine....not so much here.
You know how they say, "you always remember your first"....that really hit home as the first church we visited was Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore. My goodness......
It was indeed an impressive sight.
What was really interesting were the Chinese tour groups... they would often push themselves to the front of the line, trying to force themselves in front of everyone. It was especially bad at the Vatican where the guards actually had to push them back.
They often make interesting statements which would make the Missus crack up. Like when one of them said to another while looking at the statue of Pope Pius IX, "look, a statue of Buddha praying...."
One thing that really fascinated both the Missus and I were the Obelisks.
Each different....there seemed to be a story somewhere here....
One could just wander like we did and find a church like San Pietro in Vincoli, which has the tomb of Pope Julis II.
Apparently, this work was by Michelangelo, what more can you really say? How often do you see a work by Michelangelo? Really?
The church also holds a relic of the chains that bound Saint Peter while he was imprisoned.
The sheer amount of art, displayed in sculpture, on canvas, and in murals is quite amazing.
There is of course, the Colosseum and the Forum, but for some reason the Missus wasn't interested in visiting either.
And then there is the "Torta Nuziale", (the wedding cake), also known as the Victor Emmanuel Monument.
The Missus loved the architecture....I thought it as being a bit too gaudy.....
Around the back is the Basilica Santa Maria in Aracoeli.
The view from here is quite nice.
We made our way back to our room. Max, the proprietor of our B&B had made reservations at a place I was just itching to try, Trattoria Da Danilo, which was a scant three blocks away.
We were warned about the "typical Roman service" which was pretty much isolated to the woman who seemed to run the place....in other words, we should be honored just to eat here.
There's a big push for the antipasto here.....as in a major Ronda Rousey armbar upsell of dishes...some of which were good....some not.
The fried dishes were cold and were not especially good.....
And then of course was what I really wanted....the dish that had me going, "oh my....." The Cabonara with truffle.....oh my, what can I say? The flavor of shaved truffle...perfectly al dente noodles. the restrained richness of the dish.
In the end, there was a payoff for me....... I was willing to endure the lousy service for the carbonara of my dreams. I guess we all have a price, eh?